c8.25 gear install questions
#16
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What does one typically do when confronted with the typ interference?
It wouldn't be hard to re-install the bolts with lock tight now though.
The HF tool is probably viable if your goal is to get the bearing off so you can reuse the pinion. If you want to reuse the bearing itself, no way.
In retrospect, the best way to get a setup bearing is to buy one. $13 at my local autoparts store.
#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8
I'm installing 4.56.
What does one typically do when confronted with the typ interference?
Right now I don't have any lock tight on the RG bolts. I don't see any sign of it on the bolts I pulled. The FSM doesn't say to use any.
It wouldn't be hard to re-install the bolts with lock tight now though.
Pulling the pinion bearing looks like a tough problem with any tool since there isn't much clearance to get under the race.
The HF tool is probably viable if your goal is to get the bearing off so you can reuse the pinion. If you want to reuse the bearing itself, no way.
In retrospect, the best way to get a setup bearing is to buy one. $13 at my local autoparts store.
What does one typically do when confronted with the typ interference?
Right now I don't have any lock tight on the RG bolts. I don't see any sign of it on the bolts I pulled. The FSM doesn't say to use any.
It wouldn't be hard to re-install the bolts with lock tight now though.
Pulling the pinion bearing looks like a tough problem with any tool since there isn't much clearance to get under the race.
The HF tool is probably viable if your goal is to get the bearing off so you can reuse the pinion. If you want to reuse the bearing itself, no way.
In retrospect, the best way to get a setup bearing is to buy one. $13 at my local autoparts store.
I believe the FSM for the 8.25 is assuming OE bolts that have the dry LT applied to the threads.
A diff bearing puller removes the bearing everytime with one issue and perfectly good for reinstall everytime. It grabs the cage, but applies preload to the race thru the rollers. Hard to explain, have to have one or such to follow I think.
#18
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'll reinstall them with thread lock.
I think I see. Given the hint to grab the rollers, I could probably build one. Interesting lathe project for a rainy day.
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So you are running no shims on the pinion and still having interference with the carrier? When I install a set of gears I buy an extra brand new bearing for the pinion to use as a setup and use the existing race in the carrier as long as it's not pitted/screwed up.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Eaton tech support was easy to get on the phone and seemed genuinely surprised by this problem.
My next step is to review everything I have done for errors and then measure how much the factory pinion intrudes into the housing compared to the new pinion.
My next step is to review everything I have done for errors and then measure how much the factory pinion intrudes into the housing compared to the new pinion.
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#25
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The pinion is too deep for the Detroit case which is larger than the stock carrier.
I initially installed it with the original shim (0.025").
I don't know how it matches with the ring since I can't rotate the ring with everything tightened down.
I suspect that the pinion gear is a little taller than OEM gear but I really need to measure to move beyond speculation at this point.
I initially installed it with the original shim (0.025").
I don't know how it matches with the ring since I can't rotate the ring with everything tightened down.
I suspect that the pinion gear is a little taller than OEM gear but I really need to measure to move beyond speculation at this point.
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
This was much more trouble than I had hoped. The bearing race really didn't want to come off the pinion. The HF bearing separator (which is kind of crude) popped off mangling the bearing cage. I re-contoured the bearing separator with a die grinder so it could get more securely under the bearing race and eventually got it off. Finally spent quite awhile bending the cage and reassembling the bearing.
I'm firmly in the setup with original races camp now. I don't want my beat up old rollers and mangled cage getting anywhere near my new bearing races.
I'm firmly in the setup with original races camp now. I don't want my beat up old rollers and mangled cage getting anywhere near my new bearing races.
http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I now see that I ended up with a "standard" rather than a "master" kit which basically means I saved $10 but didn't get shims, which I now need to buy) or new ring bolts.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
After measuring, I see that new pinion is in fact, a little under 1 mm shorter.
I assume this means that I didn't really get the cage to hold the cones in place correctly.
I think I'm basically on hold until I get an new setup bearing and a shim pack.
Plus I now know I'm going to have the same parts shortage with my d30.
I assume this means that I didn't really get the cage to hold the cones in place correctly.
I think I'm basically on hold until I get an new setup bearing and a shim pack.
Plus I now know I'm going to have the same parts shortage with my d30.