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c8.25 gear install questions

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Old 04-04-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
That interference is only typ with 3.73 and numerically lower ratios.
I'm installing 4.56.

What does one typically do when confronted with the typ interference?

Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
Make sure you use a good amount of lock tight on the RG bolts, as the C8.25 uses such a small RG bolt that the torque is minimal and common for the bolts to back out of poorly assembled diff's.
Right now I don't have any lock tight on the RG bolts. I don't see any sign of it on the bolts I pulled. The FSM doesn't say to use any.

It wouldn't be hard to re-install the bolts with lock tight now though.

Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
As for that HF puller. Its a separator and have yet to see anyone use it with and successfulness, when pulling a pinion bearing. You need a Diff bearing puller. Another one of the Diff guys tool arsenal that makes paying the 125$ with it to the average Joe.
Pulling the pinion bearing looks like a tough problem with any tool since there isn't much clearance to get under the race.

The HF tool is probably viable if your goal is to get the bearing off so you can reuse the pinion. If you want to reuse the bearing itself, no way.

In retrospect, the best way to get a setup bearing is to buy one. $13 at my local autoparts store.
Old 04-04-2014, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sreeb
I'm installing 4.56.

What does one typically do when confronted with the typ interference?

Right now I don't have any lock tight on the RG bolts. I don't see any sign of it on the bolts I pulled. The FSM doesn't say to use any.

It wouldn't be hard to re-install the bolts with lock tight now though.


Pulling the pinion bearing looks like a tough problem with any tool since there isn't much clearance to get under the race.

The HF tool is probably viable if your goal is to get the bearing off so you can reuse the pinion. If you want to reuse the bearing itself, no way.

In retrospect, the best way to get a setup bearing is to buy one. $13 at my local autoparts store.
You have to clearance the pinion head. Flap wheel on a 4.5 angle grinder works well. Basically just the very tips of the gear teeth.


I believe the FSM for the 8.25 is assuming OE bolts that have the dry LT applied to the threads.

A diff bearing puller removes the bearing everytime with one issue and perfectly good for reinstall everytime. It grabs the cage, but applies preload to the race thru the rollers. Hard to explain, have to have one or such to follow I think.
Old 04-04-2014, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
You have to clearance the pinion head. Flap wheel on a 4.5 angle grinder works well. Basically just the very tips of the gear teeth.
I suspected that would be the answer.

Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
I believe the FSM for the 8.25 is assuming OE bolts that have the dry LT applied to the threads.
They do say not to reuse them so that is possible.

I'll reinstall them with thread lock.

Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
IA diff bearing puller removes the bearing everytime with one issue and perfectly good for reinstall everytime. It grabs the cage, but applies preload to the race thru the rollers. Hard to explain, have to have one or such to follow I think.
I think I see. Given the hint to grab the rollers, I could probably build one. Interesting lathe project for a rainy day.
Old 04-04-2014, 03:55 PM
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So you are running no shims on the pinion and still having interference with the carrier? When I install a set of gears I buy an extra brand new bearing for the pinion to use as a setup and use the existing race in the carrier as long as it's not pitted/screwed up.
Old 04-04-2014, 04:08 PM
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Eaton tech support was easy to get on the phone and seemed genuinely surprised by this problem.

My next step is to review everything I have done for errors and then measure how much the factory pinion intrudes into the housing compared to the new pinion.
Old 04-04-2014, 04:25 PM
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I might still have my set up bearings if interested.
Old 04-04-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
I might still have my set up bearings if interested.
Why not just shim under the race? I dont know what your master kit came with but get some D44JK or F8.8 pinion depth shims and wha laa..
Old 04-04-2014, 04:39 PM
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If he is having clearance issues that tells me the pinion is too deep
Old 04-04-2014, 05:10 PM
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Don't know how trashed his bearings are.

X2 to above, what's a patten look like?
Old 04-04-2014, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake.
If he is having clearance issues that tells me the pinion is too deep
The pinion is too deep for the Detroit case which is larger than the stock carrier.

I initially installed it with the original shim (0.025").

I don't know how it matches with the ring since I can't rotate the ring with everything tightened down.

I suspect that the pinion gear is a little taller than OEM gear but I really need to measure to move beyond speculation at this point.
Old 04-04-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by sreeb
This was much more trouble than I had hoped. The bearing race really didn't want to come off the pinion. The HF bearing separator (which is kind of crude) popped off mangling the bearing cage. I re-contoured the bearing separator with a die grinder so it could get more securely under the bearing race and eventually got it off. Finally spent quite awhile bending the cage and reassembling the bearing.

I'm firmly in the setup with original races camp now. I don't want my beat up old rollers and mangled cage getting anywhere near my new bearing races.
Is this the bearing separator you used?

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html
Old 04-04-2014, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Marks2000XJ
Is this the bearing separator you used?

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html
No that one is too small. I used a #3979 which I don't really recommend for the application. I also used a 20 ton press to go with it.
Old 04-04-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
Why not just shim under the race? I dont know what your master kit came with but get some D44JK or F8.8 pinion depth shims and wha laa..
I now see that I ended up with a "standard" rather than a "master" kit which basically means I saved $10 but didn't get shims, which I now need to buy) or new ring bolts.
Old 04-04-2014, 09:31 PM
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After measuring, I see that new pinion is in fact, a little under 1 mm shorter.

I assume this means that I didn't really get the cage to hold the cones in place correctly.

I think I'm basically on hold until I get an new setup bearing and a shim pack.

Plus I now know I'm going to have the same parts shortage with my d30.
Old 04-04-2014, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
I might still have my set up bearings if interested.

Lemme know if ya want these.


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