Hi, I'm trying to get some straight advice about lifted Cherokees and what to look for when shopping for one. I've never owned a lifted truck but I want something I can take out in the desert without worrying about rocks, hills, and mud. I'm looking for a 97-99 Cherokee, lifted with all terrain tires. There are many available in Phoenix where I live, but I'm trying to learn what I need to look for to determine if the modifications have been done correctly.

I have been told that above a 4.5" lift the drive shaft needs to be modified, brake lines lengthened, steering modified, and that with tires over 33" things such as axles will need to be upgraded etc, etc. The problem is, I don't know what I don't know.

For example, there's a 1997 Cherokee that I'd really like to go see which has "33" tires and Pro Comp lift". Lift height isn't specified, but if I go and look at this vehicle, should I ask about axle or driveshaft work?

Thanks.

 

How experienced are you with vehicles and modifications in general, not just jeeps? Because you will need to inspect the underside and all the suspension componenets for anything out of the ordinary. If it is lifted 3" or higher, you can ask if they installed a slip yoke eliminator or if they did a transfer case drop. (SYE is preferred). Then just use common sense, get it up to highway speeds on a test drive, make sure it brakes well, roll down the windows while you drive to listen for noises, steer from full left lock to full right lock, just give it a good rundown. Dont abuse it until you buy it, but make sure everything works. If you dont know much about this bring a friend or a relative who knows more.

Also side note, im 99% sure this is posted in the wrong category, but that isnt my job and i still wanted to be helpful.

Edit: make sure you ask about all the suspension aftermarket stuff, then do your own research on those parts and you can decide if it is up to your own standards. You will want to know about anything aftermarket, you want to verify that it was all properly done so that you dont have to much to worry about

 

Find an XJ that is as close to stock as possible. It will go nearly any place you like as-is. Do as much research as possible, then impose your will on it.

 

This might be the wrong forum, I don't know. It seemed like Cherokee Tech would be the knowledgeable place.

I'd say I have average experience with vehicle modifications. I've changed springs and shocks on cars, sway bars, end links etc., I do my own work on motorcycles, and I like to think I'm good at observing structurally important frame components.

I've read that lifted vehicles have some slight wobble to them, but can I assume that if I can handle it at highway speed it's normal?

 

Almost all of the Cherokees on Craigslist around here are lifted with tires. The only decent looking stock one is a 99 with an asking price of $6,800 which is ridiculous.

I'll be buying something that's been modified. Or I'll just say screw it and live with a wrangler.

 

Yes, if it has death wobble, the steering wheel will violently shake. And if the driveline has vibrations you will feel the vehicle vibrating. Just try and avoid anything that vibrates unnaturally, and if you have some experience you'll be fine. Im by no means an expert, i mean thats why we use the forums. Just drive it, inspect it, and make sure it drives like a normal vehicle. No shakes, no concerning bends to suspension parts, no rust.

And i definetely understand the appeal to having a lifted cherokee, the stock xj is very capable offroad, but lifted ones look infinitely better and having a good set of tires already installed can save money for sure. So just go check em out, if your gut tells you something is off with the jeep, dont buy it. But if everything looks good and feels good, then consider buying it. I would still say bring a friend, i always bring somebody with me to buy vehicles, because they might see something you glanced over. Its just a good idea to have another set of eyes and ears

 

Ok then. You can find an unmolested one for a good price, but you'll have to be patient. Otherwise, if you find a lifted one, things like extended brake lines and slip yoke eliminators are good to have no matter the altitude of lift. Mainly, if it looks correct and drives nice, it's ok. Take it above 55 mph and hit as many potholes as you can (research:"Death Wobble"). You'll eventually modify it from the way you bought it, so use your common sense and get the one that pulls your chain.

 

Thanks this makes me feel better. When you say extended brake lines are good to have, it sounds like your saying its not totally necessary? So I'd have to be driving over some larger obstacles for the wheel to move far enough away from the body for that become a problem?

The problem is that some people sound calm and confident when giving advice, like your comment, while a person I heard from elsewhere acted like axles and brake lines were a deal breaker.

 

Precisely, but it will depend on the height of lift and what surfaces it has been driven on, and how you plan to use it. 3" and over it's considered necessary to have both SYE and extended brake lines.

Again, all will depend on what is on it and how it's been treated. That's why a stock, unmolested vehicle is a safer choice when you have limited knowledge.

 

Sounds like you're off to a good start. 97-99 are definitely the years to look for. I'd stay away from 00-01 because they have some less-desirable parts such as the head and front axle.

I agree with whoever said buy one as close to stock as possible. Chances are that you'll end up replacing the lift and any other aftermarket parts at some point so you might as well make it your own. Also, buy what you really want that can't be easily changed. For example, if you really want a 2 door 5 speed then buy one. You'll kick yourself forever for buying a 4 door auto (like myself).

Focus more on making sure it has been well maintained and it a good overall vehicle. Usually rust is the biggest issue on these but seeing as you're in Phoenix I don't think you need to worry about that. I always ask sellers to not start the vehicle the day that I come to look at it so I can open the radiator cap to inspect the coolant and also hear it start cold. Try to get as much information as possible from the owner about how long they've had it, where the got it, what it has been used for, what has been done to it (mods and maintenance). If they come off like a half-assed shade-tree mechanic, take that into consideration. Not many things suck more than reverse engineering some sketchy backyard repairs.

Whatever you end up buying will need money put into it. These vehicles are getting older and its just the nature of owning one. Don't be surprised if you put well over $1,000 into it less than a year after owning it. Often times there are small problems that you would never catch on a test drive that can add up quick. Fixing them all and taking pride in maintaining an old vehicle is half the fun though, right?

 

Wow, great tips from everyone. I don't really mind putting money into it, especially if the repairs are little things, but this will be my only vehicle to commute with other than a motorcycle. It sounds like the things that break aren't usually the type of things that will strand you though, so that's good.