What justifies a ball joint needing to be replaced?

 

When a ball joint is bad, your wheel will essentially wiggle, like when you have the wheels stright they may not stand up straight, they may lean in or out

 

Im sorry for the bad explanation, i cant really think of a good way to describe it

 

It actually makes complete sense because that's what mine are doing

 

Yeah, the tire moving back and forth when you turn is what creates the popping noise, and if you dont replace them, they can eventually snap, and your tire will fold in/out

 

thats actually not a bad price, firestone quoted me 1300 just for ball joints...... but if you want to learn do them, you can rent a ball joint press from autozone,oreillys, etc...

 

But $600 for labor is so dang high. That's like me working a 40 hr work week. I'd rather dedicate that time and learn and save money than pay for them to do it.

 

wow those estimates are high, I personally dont think balljoints are that bad to do. Just need the right tools for the job

 

Glad you got the CEL to go off. Most of the time if you can throw a CEL when you're wheeling, it is because water got on a sensor or you're revving it more than usual, causing the O2 sensors to throw a bad code. A few on/off's with the key and they usually go away.

The squeal is from your serpentine belt slipping over the wheels on the front of your engine. A tightening bolt is on the right side (facing the engine bay) of the power steering. That's your tensioner pulley. Tighten it until the squealing just goes away- overtightening can lead to prematurely worn out bearings in the wheels. If that doesn't do it, you can purchase some conditioner that makes the belt more sticky. Ultimately though, if it is cracked/worn/weathered it is a good idea to replace it. At least carry a spare.

You don't want to stuff your tires too far into your wheel wells, so some bumpstopping is necessary. The bump stops should still be in the coils, even extended if necessary. But since it sounds like you're only rubbing on one side, I'd take the other guys' advice and get that axle centered under your chassis first. This can be done with some measurements in your garage and some ratcheting tie-downs. Use the tie-downs to pull the chassis left or right to center it above the axle. Adjust your tracbar to match. I've also seen a plum line used from the fender edge to the wheel hub assembly to get it centered.

Worn ball joints can be checked by raising the suspected wheel off the ground, then using a 2x4, crowbar, or some sort of lever against the ground. If the ball joints are shot, you'll be able to pivot the wheel independently with the lever.

I would get all of those squared away before you take it in for an alignment. Else they may align it without correcting the issues you're having. I personally prefer to do it myself, but since you're having the wheels balanced you may as well have everything done at the same place.

 

everything there you can do on your own with a little bit of perseverance.

rent the ball joint press from autozone, you just pay a deposit and get it all back when you return it unbroken.

alignment can be done with a tape measure knowing where to measure from.

bushings can be replaced easily enough.

did your steering wheel go off center when you hear the popping? cause that's a sure sign of the track bar. i know the axle bushings are easy to wallow out, i've went through 3 in one season on my RE track bar. made a new one out of uhmw.

as for your cel, if you turn the key off and on without starting it 3 times in 5 seconds, you will get a code on the odometer. look those codes up on the interweb.

 

Looked back over what needs to be replaced and it says 2 "front hub assembly". Hard or not?

 

hub assemblies are very easy. separating them from the knuckle can be tough if you don't use the socket extension trick.

13mm 12pt socket and an extension. loosen the bolts, back them off a few threads, leave the socket/extension on the front most bolt and turn the steering wheel until the extension comes into contact with the knuckle, then just turn the steering wheel with some force to push the hub off the knuckle.

you may have to switch the socket/extension to the rear most bolt to fully remove the hub, but very very easy compared to a hammer and chisel.

i personally use a 1/2 inch ratchet/socket without the extension, but whatever you want to use will work.

 

I've had two mechanics tell me the hubs need to be replaced and one tell that they don't. He said since the hubs weren't "roaring" they didn't need to be replaced and since there wasn't any play in the wheel (he used a crow bar and showed me) that the ball joints didn't need to be replaced. That was about six months ago. A lot could have changed by now I would imagine, but is the play in the wheel and the "roaring" the only way for me to tell? I don't really wanna spend $1300 of its just the track bar bushing that needs to be replaced.

 

My track bar is a little slopped out. Pops when I turn and take off from a light...I'd start there. Worry about the rest later, be methodical, one thing at a time, and you'll get it done....sounds like your a little overwhelmed.

 

A little bit. I've let the jeep sit for about 2 weeks now and that sucks! I really wanna drive it, but I'm scared to. I don't want to hurt it.