Build Opinions? Finally ready to purchase!!
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Build Opinions? Finally ready to purchase!!
Alright so I received my college aid reimbursement finally and have a good chunk of change to play with. Now I'm looking for the final thumbs up on what to get and hoping you amazing jeep gurus can help me with the final choices.
So this is my current build plan: 3" lift on 33x10.50x15 Km2's and it's a DD
Stuff I'll order asap (unless convinced otherwise)
1.) Zone 3" (Full Springs)
2.) IRO Adjustable LCA's
3.) JKS Quick Discos
4.) IRO Adjustable Double Shear Track Bar
5.) 4 new wheels from 4wd.com, Probable series 52ish rock crawlers 15x8 (only a 3.75" BS option; next size is 4.25 BS too much I think)
6.) Transmission Cooler
7.) ZJ Tie Rod
8.) T-Case Drop 1"
9.) Trim and Trim and Bumpstop plenty
Now I went with 3" of lift because I want to avoid an SYE and slowly build her up. Plus if I want more lift later on, shackles and spacers aren't too spendy. Eventually I do have hopes to go to 35's but it's a long ways away.
Future Upgrades
1.) Regear to 4.56
2.) Rear locker (probably lunchbox)
3.) Durango Steering
4.) Full steering upgrade (1 ton steering?)
5.) SYE and Front JY DS
6.) 1" - 2" Shackles and Spacers (If I decide to run 35's or want more lift)
7.) Long arms
And probably a JCR bumper, a roof rack, and a winch somewhere in there as well. I feel like I'm forgetting something but I'm sure I'll remember later. All opinions welcome, I'm trying to get all this ordered as soon as I can. But please don't tell me to just get all these crazy long arm lifts in the thousands of dollars, I'm trying to keep it under a good budget and build it as I can.
Thanks for any help and honest opinions!!
So this is my current build plan: 3" lift on 33x10.50x15 Km2's and it's a DD
Stuff I'll order asap (unless convinced otherwise)
1.) Zone 3" (Full Springs)
2.) IRO Adjustable LCA's
3.) JKS Quick Discos
4.) IRO Adjustable Double Shear Track Bar
5.) 4 new wheels from 4wd.com, Probable series 52ish rock crawlers 15x8 (only a 3.75" BS option; next size is 4.25 BS too much I think)
6.) Transmission Cooler
7.) ZJ Tie Rod
8.) T-Case Drop 1"
9.) Trim and Trim and Bumpstop plenty
Now I went with 3" of lift because I want to avoid an SYE and slowly build her up. Plus if I want more lift later on, shackles and spacers aren't too spendy. Eventually I do have hopes to go to 35's but it's a long ways away.
Future Upgrades
1.) Regear to 4.56
2.) Rear locker (probably lunchbox)
3.) Durango Steering
4.) Full steering upgrade (1 ton steering?)
5.) SYE and Front JY DS
6.) 1" - 2" Shackles and Spacers (If I decide to run 35's or want more lift)
7.) Long arms
And probably a JCR bumper, a roof rack, and a winch somewhere in there as well. I feel like I'm forgetting something but I'm sure I'll remember later. All opinions welcome, I'm trying to get all this ordered as soon as I can. But please don't tell me to just get all these crazy long arm lifts in the thousands of dollars, I'm trying to keep it under a good budget and build it as I can.
Thanks for any help and honest opinions!!
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline Six
Just from my experience, I have 4.5" of lift with a 1" T-case drop and don't have a SYE. I don't get bad vibes and I've been running it for about a year now. That being said I know every XJ is a little different. If your going to have 3" of lift and 33's Id suggest making some plans to do a fender cut . I put TJ rear fender flares on, but I had to have fender flares on cause Oregon is pretty strict about your tires sticking out past your fenders. At least to what I've experienced. I have 31's and had some rubbing at that height (3"). If you haven't yet, your also gonna want to think about some longer shocks as well. For the lift I actually went to the junk yard and made some rear "bastard packs" but if you have the funds to buy new springs go for it! Along with that, Id also consider buying/making some upper frame stiffeners. With the large tires the stresses on the "frame" will increase. I made mine and eventually will stiffen the mid section of the "frame." Just some info from my experiences.
#3
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just from my experience, I have 4.5" of lift with a 1" T-case drop and don't have a SYE. I don't get bad vibes and I've been running it for about a year now. That being said I know every XJ is a little different. If your going to have 3" of lift and 33's Id suggest making some plans to do a fender cut . I put TJ rear fender flares on, but I had to have fender flares on cause Oregon is pretty strict about your tires sticking out past your fenders. At least to what I've experienced. I have 31's and had some rubbing at that height (3"). If you haven't yet, your also gonna want to think about some longer shocks as well. For the lift I actually went to the junk yard and made some rear "bastard packs" but if you have the funds to buy new springs go for it! Along with that, Id also consider buying/making some upper frame stiffeners. With the large tires the stresses on the "frame" will increase. I made mine and eventually will stiffen the mid section of the "frame." Just some info from my experiences.
I did mention trimming for my fenders in my original post. Also, I live in Oregon too and I always see people without fender flares and tires that stick very far out. I've even stopped and asked a few and they've said that they have never been pulled over or ticketed for it. And the 3" Zone lift comes with shocks as well. Thanks for you're help! i know I should really look into some bushwackers or something just in case I do get in trouble for the tires sticking out lol.
Oh and with the SYE, I just don't like taking chances of needing it because I really don't want to deal with it right now. The guys at the 4wd store tell me over and over again that I need an SYE over 3" even if I'm not getting vibes. So I figure i'll just not take the chance and stay at 3" for now
Last edited by Eagle564; 02-17-2013 at 05:14 PM.
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would recommend getting longer brake lines, my jeep is currently at about 3" and the stock lines did not have much length left for flexing.
Especially if you are thinking long arms later I would get longer lines now.
Especially if you are thinking long arms later I would get longer lines now.
#6
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
You can relocate the stock front lines for a free fix or you can order new extended lines or go the junk yard route. Your choice. I went with relocated lines and then went extended on top of that.
#7
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline Six
I did mention trimming for my fenders in my original post. Also, I live in Oregon too and I always see people without fender flares and tires that stick very far out. I've even stopped and asked a few and they've said that they have never been pulled over or ticketed for it. And the 3" Zone lift comes with shocks as well. Thanks for you're help! i know I should really look into some bushwackers or something just in case I do get in trouble for the tires sticking out lol.
Oh and with the SYE, I just don't like taking chances of needing it because I really don't want to deal with it right now. The guys at the 4wd store tell me over and over again that I need an SYE over 3" even if I'm not getting vibes. So I figure i'll just not take the chance and stay at 3" for now
Oh and with the SYE, I just don't like taking chances of needing it because I really don't want to deal with it right now. The guys at the 4wd store tell me over and over again that I need an SYE over 3" even if I'm not getting vibes. So I figure i'll just not take the chance and stay at 3" for now
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#8
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ya thank you guys, ill probably just relocate them then. And ya if i get pulled over ill end up getting some bushwackers or something lol
#10
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
rear:
if not selectable, will always be engaged
you'll feel it on the road
hear it if it's lunch box
increase tire wear
selectable belongs in the rear if you can only afford 1 selectable
front:
in my experience, when locked pulls harder than the rear can push
never feel it in 2wd
lunchbox is cheaper than full or selectable
gotta worry about breaking ujoints
if you have to use 4x4 in the snow, locked front might pose some problems
I say get an aussie front $250 and some new ujoints to go with it. try that out and see how you like it
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
that's the 2nd biggest dispute in the wheeling world. right behind are IRO long arms ok to run or not. so instead of "which is better" here are some pros and cons.
rear:
if not selectable, will always be engaged
you'll feel it on the road
hear it if it's lunch box
increase tire wear
selectable belongs in the rear if you can only afford 1 selectable
front:
in my experience, when locked pulls harder than the rear can push
never feel it in 2wd
lunchbox is cheaper than full or selectable
gotta worry about breaking ujoints
if you have to use 4x4 in the snow, locked front might pose some problems
I say get an aussie front $250 and some new ujoints to go with it. try that out and see how you like it
rear:
if not selectable, will always be engaged
you'll feel it on the road
hear it if it's lunch box
increase tire wear
selectable belongs in the rear if you can only afford 1 selectable
front:
in my experience, when locked pulls harder than the rear can push
never feel it in 2wd
lunchbox is cheaper than full or selectable
gotta worry about breaking ujoints
if you have to use 4x4 in the snow, locked front might pose some problems
I say get an aussie front $250 and some new ujoints to go with it. try that out and see how you like it
#13
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0
#14
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho 99 intake ps pump 1" tb spacer 62mm bored tb eletric fans and more
I didnt see what rear axle you were running but heres my two cents take it or leave it.
you shouldnt need the one inch tranny drop i have 4.5" lift on 35s all i did was get the dana 35 drive shaft and a yj front yoke not vibes and the yoke sits better than factory.
the brake lines you need to adress wether you go to the junk yard and pick up some s10 lines or not. your brakes are one thing you never want to get stuck with out lol
my brother and i made my fender flares but on his jeep we relocated the factor flares after cutting. take your time cutting and trimming people rush this and mess there rigs up.
other thing you have to figure out is how much wheeling you plan on doing
also where abouts you live in oregon?
you shouldnt need the one inch tranny drop i have 4.5" lift on 35s all i did was get the dana 35 drive shaft and a yj front yoke not vibes and the yoke sits better than factory.
the brake lines you need to adress wether you go to the junk yard and pick up some s10 lines or not. your brakes are one thing you never want to get stuck with out lol
my brother and i made my fender flares but on his jeep we relocated the factor flares after cutting. take your time cutting and trimming people rush this and mess there rigs up.
other thing you have to figure out is how much wheeling you plan on doing
also where abouts you live in oregon?
#15
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
well i guess ill throw my 2cents in - if it was my cash id do a 3", 4-link (not radius) long arm. there are lots of companys that come almost complete or fully complete. (fulltraction or froehlich suspension / lead foot on here sells froehlich) you will be much happier with a long arm over a pieced together short arm. Id get some cut fender flares (bushwacker or hooligan) to keep it legal, add a auburn electric front and rear selectable locker, find some wheels and tires on craigslist, and roll out. yes you would need to upgrade steering (but lead foot could set you up a package deal with the suspension) gears and axles later, but i think with some carefull wheeling you would be set. oh- and i would add a portable winch or comealong. jmo.