Which brand long arms?
03-13-2012, 11:56 PM
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Which brand long arms?
Hey, Ive been looking into long arms and wanted to get a few opinions from you guys. I've been looking at bds's true 4-link or serious longarms. I can't weld. What are your opinions on these two companies long arms, which rides and flexes better and if you feel there's a better set up, let me know. Also im doing a 6.5 lift with 33's
03-14-2012, 12:23 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Rough Country's long arms are great and I can vouch for them because I run them. Shocks are stiff but long arms and crossmember are solid.
03-14-2012, 12:44 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Booyah. Got my whole 6.5" LA kit from 4wheelplus.com. Owners name is Ron and he ended up giving me a 15% off coupon code. Entire lift with steering stabilizer was 1330 shipped 3 day to my door. If you call leave a message he's always busy but he'll get back to you.
03-14-2012, 06:25 AM
#7
they will both ride and flex just as good for the most part.
theres something to be said about the caster change upon travel with a radius arm setup, but 99% of people wont notice it.
and theres also something to be said about the binding of a radius arm setup, but again, its something you wont notice, the bushings to a good enough job to compensate for the binding.
theres something to be said about the caster change upon travel with a radius arm setup, but 99% of people wont notice it.
and theres also something to be said about the binding of a radius arm setup, but again, its something you wont notice, the bushings to a good enough job to compensate for the binding.
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03-14-2012, 08:51 AM
#9
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I have RC on my current jeep, not bad but I've had to do some fixes to keep it running. I'm getting ready to build another XJ and did months of research on what I want to go with this time. I'm going to go with the kit from Serious. All of my questions were answered immediately if not sooner and you can't beat the "if you can break it I'll take care of you" customer service. As soon as I get the new jeep up and running, I'll let you know what I think
03-14-2012, 09:30 AM
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Year: 1989 Comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
they will both ride and flex just as good for the most part.
theres something to be said about the caster change upon travel with a radius arm setup, but 99% of people wont notice it.
and theres also something to be said about the binding of a radius arm setup, but again, its something you wont notice, the bushings to a good enough job to compensate for the binding.
theres something to be said about the caster change upon travel with a radius arm setup, but 99% of people wont notice it.
and theres also something to be said about the binding of a radius arm setup, but again, its something you wont notice, the bushings to a good enough job to compensate for the binding.
03-14-2012, 01:26 PM
#11
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Depends who you ask. Everyone on here will tell you rough country. Pirate will tell you to make your own ****. Its like 2 different extremes but you get what you pay for.
You could always but Clayton crossmember and make your own arms. Probably save you a few bucks.
You could always but Clayton crossmember and make your own arms. Probably save you a few bucks.
03-14-2012, 06:25 PM
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CLAYTON. I believe they have free shipping right now too.
They have a 3 link kit out that I would look at.
Bds would be good also
They have a 3 link kit out that I would look at.
Bds would be good also
03-14-2012, 06:36 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A friend of mine just bought an XJ with the RC long arm kit and we got together last night to put his new transfer case in with an SYE and realized there was no way to do it unless we drop the arms & crossmember. That was an eye opener.
Frank, it looks like your kit (and Claytons) are made so you can service the drivetrain. How about the transmission? I noticed he couldn't even drain the ATF because the crossmember covers it.
When I get to the point of shopping for a LA kit, the design will be a huge factor.
Frank, it looks like your kit (and Claytons) are made so you can service the drivetrain. How about the transmission? I noticed he couldn't even drain the ATF because the crossmember covers it.
When I get to the point of shopping for a LA kit, the design will be a huge factor.
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