Brake upgrades
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chester Virginia
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
I have researched this question a good bit, but still i have one question. I have purchased the cross drilled and slotted brake with the coordinating brake pads to match, along with AMSOIL synthetic brake fluid for the new swap. I was wondering could I use a new set of ZJ calipers with the more pistons even though i have upgraded XJ rotors and brake pads? Would they work together? or should i have got Upgraded brake rotors for a ZJ to go with the coordinating calipers? Any help would be great help. I'm looking to be able to stop faster and more efficient, i have read build where people have just opted to upgrade there whole brake package with a stock ZJ brake setup. Help...
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Gloucester Virginia
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by 99 Purple XJ
If you want great brakes swap the rear to disc
A big emphasis on getting all of the parking brake parts from the donor, mine had already been picked clean of the parking brake parts and it was kinda expensive to get them all from the dealer.
The p valve is a big deal, the GC sends the fluid 50-50 front rear, which is needed with the discs. Its not hard to modifiy it though. Overall performance wise this is the best mod I have done.
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From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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From: Akron, OH
Year: 1993
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well seeing that the OP has already purchased pads and rotors and is asking specifically about the front.
I believe what you are thinking of is upgrading to wj calipers. They are dual piston. The zj caliper is the same as the xj.
If you wanted to upgrade to the wj dual piston calipers it would require using wj knuckles, and rotors, as well as a couple other mods. If you were interested in that you can see me doing it currently in my build thread.
Otherwise, if you want to use the parts that you have already purchased, there isnt any better caliper that will work.
I believe what you are thinking of is upgrading to wj calipers. They are dual piston. The zj caliper is the same as the xj.
If you wanted to upgrade to the wj dual piston calipers it would require using wj knuckles, and rotors, as well as a couple other mods. If you were interested in that you can see me doing it currently in my build thread.
Otherwise, if you want to use the parts that you have already purchased, there isnt any better caliper that will work.
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From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
if you use synthetic fluid, you need to COMPLETELY evacuate the stock system... theres really no reason to run anything other than cheap dot3..
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chester Virginia
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6
Thank you all for the responces, sorry its taken me forever to get back to everyone. I have been working like crazy these past few weeks. I'm definetly interested in being able to stop faster and more effectively, especially when im looking into lifting my Jeep over the summer( any input on the lift would be great too). The 95/96 dual diaphragm brake booster and master cylinder sounded very interesting, would it be compatible with my 2001? I read it was a bolt on and you can't not love bolt on items. I'm currently looking for a Dana 44 that would have upgraded brake for the rear, but any dana 44 would be awesome. I was really focusing on the front brakes for now, but i cant forget the rear brakes at all. It looks like i didn't do enough research before purchasing my new rotors and pads...seeing as i might of wanted the WJ knuckles and calipers with the dual pistons. Is there ant XJ upgraded caliper you can get online or that anyone makes? In reference to my Synthetic swap, I would have to evacuate the entire system before switching the system? Sounds expensive if you ask me... didn't know it would be to to bad. Would that swap require me to switch the master cylinder and brake booster, or just drain and flush the entire system? I was loking to do a certain amout oif work for sure, but i had no idea it would be that intense. Fellas, any help would be great help...thank you so much for your responses before.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: British Columbia, CANADA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Your 2001 should already have the dual-diaphragm booster. the changeover was 95/96 but i believe the change carried on to subsequent model years so you would not gain anything there.
If you upgrade to the WJ calipers I believe you need to upgrade the MC and booster to the WJ units as well as the knuckles, etc. but I'm not 100% on that..
IIRC all DOT-3, -4 and -5 brake fluids are synthetic. DOT-5 being the odd one out because it is silicone based and not hydroscopic (it does not absorb moisture). It is when switching to DOT-5 that you will need to evacuate the system.
DO NOT USE DOT-5 FLUID as it was intended for racing and, as silicone is not compatible with rubber, will cause your seals to deteriorate in relatively short order. For racing it does not matter because the calipers are re-built prior to each race.
The difference between DOT-3 and DOT-4 is the boiling point of the fluid. Unless you're planning on repeated panic stops in a VERY short period of time, trying to out-brake a sports car, or planning to actually race your XJ there really is no need to use anything other than DOT-3: you'll just be paying more for no real benefit.
A brake system flush should be carried out at least every 2 years as part of your maintenance routine anyways. As long as you do so, your brake fluid should never be an issue.
Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are primarily for allowing water and off-gases to escape during braking and can contribute to accelerated pad wear. Slotted more-so that cross-drilled. Again, unless you plan on driving and, more to the point, braking hard repeatedly won't really do much for you.
As others have stated, you will probably benefit most from upgrading to rear discs as drum brakes have more moving parts that can seize up and are generally is a greater state of disrepair which reduces their effectiveness.
There are other schools of thought out there that say that properly maintained drums can be just as effective as discs. While that may be so, discs are just easier to deal with than drums. I've swapped my rear brakes recently and the only reason I didn't do so sooner was the lack of money for the parts.
If you upgrade to the WJ calipers I believe you need to upgrade the MC and booster to the WJ units as well as the knuckles, etc. but I'm not 100% on that..
IIRC all DOT-3, -4 and -5 brake fluids are synthetic. DOT-5 being the odd one out because it is silicone based and not hydroscopic (it does not absorb moisture). It is when switching to DOT-5 that you will need to evacuate the system.
DO NOT USE DOT-5 FLUID as it was intended for racing and, as silicone is not compatible with rubber, will cause your seals to deteriorate in relatively short order. For racing it does not matter because the calipers are re-built prior to each race.
The difference between DOT-3 and DOT-4 is the boiling point of the fluid. Unless you're planning on repeated panic stops in a VERY short period of time, trying to out-brake a sports car, or planning to actually race your XJ there really is no need to use anything other than DOT-3: you'll just be paying more for no real benefit.
A brake system flush should be carried out at least every 2 years as part of your maintenance routine anyways. As long as you do so, your brake fluid should never be an issue.
Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are primarily for allowing water and off-gases to escape during braking and can contribute to accelerated pad wear. Slotted more-so that cross-drilled. Again, unless you plan on driving and, more to the point, braking hard repeatedly won't really do much for you.
As others have stated, you will probably benefit most from upgrading to rear discs as drum brakes have more moving parts that can seize up and are generally is a greater state of disrepair which reduces their effectiveness.
There are other schools of thought out there that say that properly maintained drums can be just as effective as discs. While that may be so, discs are just easier to deal with than drums. I've swapped my rear brakes recently and the only reason I didn't do so sooner was the lack of money for the parts.
Last edited by cdn_xj; May 20, 2012 at 01:16 AM.
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
I need new Rotors and pads on my 95 XJ. I would like to buy the slotted rotors and pad deal on EBAy by BRAKELABS or ATLAUTOSPORTS $74.00 to $90.00 . Has any 1 bought these or dealt with them, Are the parts any good? Are slotted better then Drilled , drilled and slotted Rotors????


