Bolt on & go, or more to it?
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Bolt on & go, or more to it?
Hi All,
Posted earlier about lifting my jeep 3.5 inches and putting 31's on it. But now I'm curious at what else needs to be done after bolting everything up and make sure its all straight. I plan on lifting it mainly for looks, but I want it done right.
Can someone please give me an honest rundown of all the necessary things that need to be done after bolting on a kit? I just want it to look good, and go down the road comfortably (without wobble), considering I drive a half hour to and from work (all express way). Not to mention I'm in Detroit, MI and the roads are jacked!
I'm sure there are plenty of threads related to this, but I'm getting sick of reading a million posts and only finding a few that answer any questions.
Thanks!
Posted earlier about lifting my jeep 3.5 inches and putting 31's on it. But now I'm curious at what else needs to be done after bolting everything up and make sure its all straight. I plan on lifting it mainly for looks, but I want it done right.
Can someone please give me an honest rundown of all the necessary things that need to be done after bolting on a kit? I just want it to look good, and go down the road comfortably (without wobble), considering I drive a half hour to and from work (all express way). Not to mention I'm in Detroit, MI and the roads are jacked!
I'm sure there are plenty of threads related to this, but I'm getting sick of reading a million posts and only finding a few that answer any questions.
Thanks!
#2
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Maryland
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Kind of a vague question. If you have installed the parts correctly and aligned it the only thing I could suggest is to check and re torque bolts at 100 miles and again at 800-1000.
Depending how high and how complete your lift is you may have to do other mods or replace other stock parts.
Depending how high and how complete your lift is you may have to do other mods or replace other stock parts.
#4
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
I was thinking about getting this kit... http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...2323208b4864b0
I assume i would need to buy shocks as well? Would I need to lower the transfer case? Adustable track bar? Also, I don't want to have a reverse rake or anything. I just want it to look clean and be solid.
I assume i would need to buy shocks as well? Would I need to lower the transfer case? Adustable track bar? Also, I don't want to have a reverse rake or anything. I just want it to look clean and be solid.
#5
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Location: Oklahoma City
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L 242
If you want to do it "right" get an SYE and a new DS, 4° shims for the rear leafs, an adjustable track bar, long shocks and extended brake lines. Having to push your build date back to get it right the first time far outweighs cutting corners just to get it looking mean. For reference, my RE 3.5" pack gave me closer to 5" in the front and nearly 6 in the rear and nobody seems to know why since my springs all have the correct 3.5" part numbers. I'll be pulling a leaf and eventually getting rid of them for some spring packs from iron rock offroad.
Adam's Driveshaft out of Henderson, NV does some great drive shaft work and has a combo deal typically.
Frank at Serious will hook you up with everything else you could possibly need.
I just did my brake lines using a set from Toxic. Built in the US and far cheaper than you'll find anywhere else for stainless extended lines.
Adam's Driveshaft out of Henderson, NV does some great drive shaft work and has a combo deal typically.
Frank at Serious will hook you up with everything else you could possibly need.
I just did my brake lines using a set from Toxic. Built in the US and far cheaper than you'll find anywhere else for stainless extended lines.
Last edited by k4ylr; 04-13-2014 at 10:30 AM.
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