That actually looks like a keeper. Only thing it says is that it's for the Dana rear. I have the Chrysler 8.25. Will that matter is there a diff kit for my rear?

 

click on the live chat icon and ask them. they usually provided ubolt for either a d35,d44,c8.25

 

Oh so that would be the only diff, that one rear is thicker than the other. Requiring a taller or wider u bolt.

 

yep

 

What was wrong with their "flex joints"? The reason I am asking is because I'll probably end up getting the RC long arm lift. I know their flex joints probably aren't the greatest, so I will most likely be replacing them before install. I just want to know WHY they are weak, or if they are just loosening up because people don't lube them?

 

no clue as to why they are weak. all i do is when they start clinking around and customer comes in is remove and install johnny joints.

something is wrong with your idea. you SHOULD NEVER have to replace a joint before you actually install the kit. terrible quality. look around at other long arm kits and they will be priced around 1K for just the long arm. look at RC long arm for $600 or so. get the picture? cheap gets you crap. a quality long arm is right around $1,000 give or stake. you get what you pay for.

search NAXJA if you seriously want to learn about rough country and their crappy joints because here EVERYONE is cheap and biased towards Rough Country. get the real situation of people actually wheeling the kit not just pounding pavement like 99% people here

 

i put well over 30,000 hard miles on my rough country kit and never had a problem with the bushings or anything yes the rear end sagged a lil but with just the add a leaf and shackle and me normally carrying bout 1000lbs in the cargo area at all times and it being a 95 that was expected but it only sagged bout 1 inch or so and that was near the end before i traded the jeep
the only things i would have changed was i would have gotten a full leaf pack for the kit but i got my moneys worth 10 times outa the kit and i impressed many people in the trail with it

 

X2 !

I think it is more wise to Spend more money at first rather than replacing garbage down the road with the Better components you should have bought the first time !

 

Just like he said rough country and rustys are similar I love my r/c but still I wish I went with a re or bds but like you I was on a budget and wanted something that works and hey if it breaks which I haven't seen anybodys rc break anyways but if it does I can upgrade to bds or re stuff or buy a whole new lift and sell my rc to someone don't let peoples opinions sway you go with what's fact

Btw I have 3 inch with new leafs and control arms I'm really loving it

 

Call RC ask for jason tell him your on here and he will hook you up. Only problems that are "common" for RC are on there long arm bushings and even then its usually my fiends brothers girlfriends cousin had his fail. Only a few guys on here have posted theyre problem. For your money RC 3" full packs no question.

 

So the RE 3.5" lift looks good but it doesn't come with shocks. The RC lifts do come with shocks. But like I said I'm on a budget and it is my DD but I do hit the bush on the weekends and much more when the weather breaks. So as far as I'm concerned I'll probably go with a lift from RC because it comes witheverything I need.

 

you dont need all the stuff people say you do. what you dont buy in kit you end up doing in work. kits make life easier. i dont use kits

you can start with this maybe
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...udget_Lift.htm

 

Even if I replaced the joints in the RC long arm, I'd still be saving money over the more expensive ones especially since it comes with a tcase skid. :shrug:
My RC lift has been doing just fine and sees the trails about every weekend or every other weekend. I've had it for about 6 or 8 months or so with about 5kmi on it. Bushings are still fine, no sag. I greased all the bushings upon install though. Maybe people's fail prematurely because they don't grease them, who knows.

 

Have you searched and seen what a currie johnny joint costs? plan atleast $50 a piece for a quality joint. your looking atleast another $200-$300 for joints ontop on the cost of rough country long arm kit. makes no sense. buy a clayton kit for $900 and be done.

 

Clayton is weld on IIRC and I don't have a welder. Maybe the people that needed them replaced just didn't grease them like they should have causing premature wear?