best JY axle upgrades for XJ ?????
#16
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have a 2001 Sport 4x4 auto/3:55 stock gears
I was able to score a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer
I want to acquire a Dana 44 for the front!
What vehicle should I be looking for that has the Dana 44 for my Xj?
what years?
thanks'
I was able to score a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer
I want to acquire a Dana 44 for the front!
What vehicle should I be looking for that has the Dana 44 for my Xj?
what years?
thanks'
#17
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Right now I got a wagoneer 44 on my crawler.
#18
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If your looking bolt in only one is a tj rubicon but thats not a true 44 its more like a dana 30 with a dana 44 center stuck in it.On the wagoneer 1980-1991 the older ones is the wrong side drop.And with the wagoneer it takes welding before it will fit and its 6 lug.The ways to fix the bolt pattern are use a isuzu rodeo rear dana 44,Or if you are going ford explorer 8.8 you can get aftermarket shafts that are 5x5.5 and you can change over the front wagoneer to same bolt pattern also.
#19
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ford full width D44s are actually closer to 68" wide. My 8 lug version, which is a half ton version with 8 lug outters which makes it a tad over 69".
That being said it's a bit overkill for 35s. Just get a 8.25 rear and be done. No fab or anything required. For what it takes to put in a 8.8 you could get a better axle that doesn't have c-clips.
That being said it's a bit overkill for 35s. Just get a 8.25 rear and be done. No fab or anything required. For what it takes to put in a 8.8 you could get a better axle that doesn't have c-clips.
overkill isn't why you get a 44. you get a 44 for the width, hubs, ring/pinion options and strength. for me that would be perfect on 35-37" tires. also I'm not sure why the fear of c-clips. I went ape rape on my 8.8 and never thought twice about it. although experience may vary
#20
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
If your looking bolt in only one is a tj rubicon but thats not a true 44 its more like a dana 30 with a dana 44 center stuck in it.On the wagoneer 1980-1991 the older ones is the wrong side drop.And with the wagoneer it takes welding before it will fit and its 6 lug.The ways to fix the bolt pattern are use a isuzu rodeo rear dana 44,Or if you are going ford explorer 8.8 you can get aftermarket shafts that are 5x5.5 and you can change over the front wagoneer to same bolt pattern also.
I think u meant 80-91 is correct driver's side drop but avoid 84-85 because of the CAD
#22
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6cyl W/ UPGRADE BOSH INJECTORS AND BORED THROTLE BODY
well after listening to you guys I am going to go with a 8.25 from a 99' automatic (for the 29 splines) and have it and my existing d30 re-geared to 4.56( unless I can find a 8.25 already 4.56 ) for the 35" tires and I will be installing b.lee's 3link kit and I will be back in the woods. thanks for all the help
#23
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
nope. I just measured one of these bad boys a week ago. 5 lug and ford is 65" wide and I'd put money up against that. 8 lug is gonna be 69.5" which is indeed overkill
overkill isn't why you get a 44. you get a 44 for the width, hubs, ring/pinion options and strength. for me that would be perfect on 35-37" tires. also I'm not sure why the fear of c-clips. I went ape rape on my 8.8 and never thought twice about it. although experience may vary
overkill isn't why you get a 44. you get a 44 for the width, hubs, ring/pinion options and strength. for me that would be perfect on 35-37" tires. also I'm not sure why the fear of c-clips. I went ape rape on my 8.8 and never thought twice about it. although experience may vary
Experience is why I despise c-clips. Broke way to many and even with disc it's still sketchy getting off a trail and I wouldn't think of driving on pavement. Last one I ran, 8.25 with ZJ disc, I limped out of the trail only to find my backing plate bent and pretty much shot. Seen the same thing on 8.8s.
Last edited by xjmarc; 06-17-2015 at 05:21 PM.
#24
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Guessing I'm wrong here. I could have sworn when we swapped a 44/9 in my buddies it was much closer to my width. I know the shaft lengths changed over the years and they are about 1/4" difference in 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. Guess the hubs are where the extra width comes in.
Experience is why I despise c-clips. Broke way to many and even with disc it's still sketchy getting off a trail and I wouldn't think of driving on pavement. Last one I ran, 8.25 with ZJ disc, I limped out of the trail only to find my backing plate bent and pretty much shot. Seen the same thing on 8.8s.
Experience is why I despise c-clips. Broke way to many and even with disc it's still sketchy getting off a trail and I wouldn't think of driving on pavement. Last one I ran, 8.25 with ZJ disc, I limped out of the trail only to find my backing plate bent and pretty much shot. Seen the same thing on 8.8s.
FWIW, I'm building an 8.8, couldn't pass up on one $100 already pulled. Plus parts are everywhere, and if I break the 31sp shafts on the 33/35" tires that I'll have the next 3-4 years, I blame my stupidity not the axle. When I eventually go to 37(we all say we'll never go above __" tire, but who are we kidding), I'll get the c-clip elim kit with upgraded shafts.
#25
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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well after listening to you guys I am going to go with a 8.25 from a 99' automatic (for the 29 splines) and have it and my existing d30 re-geared to 4.56( unless I can find a 8.25 already 4.56 ) for the 35" tires and I will be installing b.lee's 3link kit and I will be back in the woods. thanks for all the help
#26
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a set of 35's ready to go on my current build (trail rig), plan on sticking with my Chrysler 8.25 (ZJ disks in back) and my Dana 30 (going Lokka Lunchbox F&R), since I bought the rear axle with 4.56 gears I am going that route for now, but if I had my choice I would have chosen 4.88's. I have another set of axles sitting in the garage, I will probably build the Dana 30 with a truss, Alloy Shafts (RCV Axle shafts if I can afford them), and a lunchbox, and the 8.25 with a Detroit in back...... and give my daughter the 4.56 axles. Then if I go bigger 37-40's I will go with a Ford HP44 upfront (unless a cheap 60 falls in my lap) and a 14 bolt shaved in back.... Just my 2 cents
#27
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I haven't experienced any shaft breaks myself, nor witnessed them first hand, but from friends that have broken shafts, regardless of axle, they all broke right around where the shaft turns to spline. I'm prob wrong, but if that's where the shaft breaks you're going to be opening up the diff to get the smaller piece out regardless of c-clips or not right?
FWIW, I'm building an 8.8, couldn't pass up on one $100 already pulled. Plus parts are everywhere, and if I break the 31sp shafts on the 33/35" tires that I'll have the next 3-4 years, I blame my stupidity not the axle. When I eventually go to 37(we all say we'll never go above __" tire, but who are we kidding), I'll get the c-clip elim kit with upgraded shafts.
FWIW, I'm building an 8.8, couldn't pass up on one $100 already pulled. Plus parts are everywhere, and if I break the 31sp shafts on the 33/35" tires that I'll have the next 3-4 years, I blame my stupidity not the axle. When I eventually go to 37(we all say we'll never go above __" tire, but who are we kidding), I'll get the c-clip elim kit with upgraded shafts.
#30
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The Early Ford Bronco 66-76 axles are close to the stock width, and same bolt pattern, but the axle tubes are much thinner than some other Dana 44's available. Also with lockout hubs up front, many jeep rims will not bolt on.