Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
All modified tech questions. If it modifies your XJ beyond stock parts ask it here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

best JY axle upgrades for XJ ?????

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-16-2015, 10:16 PM
  #16  
Seasoned Member
 
RRXJeeper71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: ATX
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

I have a 2001 Sport 4x4 auto/3:55 stock gears
I was able to score a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer
I want to acquire a Dana 44 for the front!
What vehicle should I be looking for that has the Dana 44 for my Xj?
what years?
thanks'
Old 06-16-2015, 10:19 PM
  #17  
CF Veteran
 
XJwonders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by RRXJeeper71
I have a 2001 Sport 4x4 auto/3:55 stock gears I was able to score a Ford 8.8 out of an Explorer I want to acquire a Dana 44 for the front! What vehicle should I be looking for that has the Dana 44 for my Xj? what years? thanks'
there's a variety of vehicles with different configurations. Pass side drop, driver's side drop. CAD. High pinion, low pinion. Etc.

Right now I got a wagoneer 44 on my crawler.
Old 06-17-2015, 01:26 AM
  #18  
CF Veteran
 
andrewmp6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

If your looking bolt in only one is a tj rubicon but thats not a true 44 its more like a dana 30 with a dana 44 center stuck in it.On the wagoneer 1980-1991 the older ones is the wrong side drop.And with the wagoneer it takes welding before it will fit and its 6 lug.The ways to fix the bolt pattern are use a isuzu rodeo rear dana 44,Or if you are going ford explorer 8.8 you can get aftermarket shafts that are 5x5.5 and you can change over the front wagoneer to same bolt pattern also.
Old 06-17-2015, 01:59 AM
  #19  
CF Veteran
 
Atmos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by xjmarc
Ford full width D44s are actually closer to 68" wide. My 8 lug version, which is a half ton version with 8 lug outters which makes it a tad over 69".
That being said it's a bit overkill for 35s. Just get a 8.25 rear and be done. No fab or anything required. For what it takes to put in a 8.8 you could get a better axle that doesn't have c-clips.
nope. I just measured one of these bad boys a week ago. 5 lug and ford is 65" wide and I'd put money up against that. 8 lug is gonna be 69.5" which is indeed overkill

overkill isn't why you get a 44. you get a 44 for the width, hubs, ring/pinion options and strength. for me that would be perfect on 35-37" tires. also I'm not sure why the fear of c-clips. I went ape rape on my 8.8 and never thought twice about it. although experience may vary
Old 06-17-2015, 05:56 AM
  #20  
CF Veteran
 
XJwonders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by andrewmp6
If your looking bolt in only one is a tj rubicon but thats not a true 44 its more like a dana 30 with a dana 44 center stuck in it.On the wagoneer 1980-1991 the older ones is the wrong side drop.And with the wagoneer it takes welding before it will fit and its 6 lug.The ways to fix the bolt pattern are use a isuzu rodeo rear dana 44,Or if you are going ford explorer 8.8 you can get aftermarket shafts that are 5x5.5 and you can change over the front wagoneer to same bolt pattern also.
my waggy 44 is a 1986.... Drivers side drop.

I think u meant 80-91 is correct driver's side drop but avoid 84-85 because of the CAD
Old 06-17-2015, 06:52 AM
  #21  
CF Veteran
 
andrewmp6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

Yeah 79 and older is passenger side drop,And i forgot about the cad axles in there.
Old 06-17-2015, 09:46 AM
  #22  
Member
Thread Starter
 
MY.92.2DR.PROJECT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: whidbey island WA.
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6cyl W/ UPGRADE BOSH INJECTORS AND BORED THROTLE BODY
Default

well after listening to you guys I am going to go with a 8.25 from a 99' automatic (for the 29 splines) and have it and my existing d30 re-geared to 4.56( unless I can find a 8.25 already 4.56 ) for the 35" tires and I will be installing b.lee's 3link kit and I will be back in the woods. thanks for all the help
Old 06-17-2015, 05:11 PM
  #23  
CF Veteran
 
xjmarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Soddy Daisy TN
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by Atmos
nope. I just measured one of these bad boys a week ago. 5 lug and ford is 65" wide and I'd put money up against that. 8 lug is gonna be 69.5" which is indeed overkill

overkill isn't why you get a 44. you get a 44 for the width, hubs, ring/pinion options and strength. for me that would be perfect on 35-37" tires. also I'm not sure why the fear of c-clips. I went ape rape on my 8.8 and never thought twice about it. although experience may vary
Guessing I'm wrong here. I could have sworn when we swapped a 44/9 in my buddies it was much closer to my width. I know the shaft lengths changed over the years and they are about 1/4" difference in 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. Guess the hubs are where the extra width comes in.
Experience is why I despise c-clips. Broke way to many and even with disc it's still sketchy getting off a trail and I wouldn't think of driving on pavement. Last one I ran, 8.25 with ZJ disc, I limped out of the trail only to find my backing plate bent and pretty much shot. Seen the same thing on 8.8s.

Last edited by xjmarc; 06-17-2015 at 05:21 PM.
Old 06-17-2015, 05:46 PM
  #24  
Banned
 
2000CHERO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes on 45 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by xjmarc
Guessing I'm wrong here. I could have sworn when we swapped a 44/9 in my buddies it was much closer to my width. I know the shaft lengths changed over the years and they are about 1/4" difference in 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. Guess the hubs are where the extra width comes in.
Experience is why I despise c-clips. Broke way to many and even with disc it's still sketchy getting off a trail and I wouldn't think of driving on pavement. Last one I ran, 8.25 with ZJ disc, I limped out of the trail only to find my backing plate bent and pretty much shot. Seen the same thing on 8.8s.
I haven't experienced any shaft breaks myself, nor witnessed them first hand, but from friends that have broken shafts, regardless of axle, they all broke right around where the shaft turns to spline. I'm prob wrong, but if that's where the shaft breaks you're going to be opening up the diff to get the smaller piece out regardless of c-clips or not right?

FWIW, I'm building an 8.8, couldn't pass up on one $100 already pulled. Plus parts are everywhere, and if I break the 31sp shafts on the 33/35" tires that I'll have the next 3-4 years, I blame my stupidity not the axle. When I eventually go to 37(we all say we'll never go above __" tire, but who are we kidding), I'll get the c-clip elim kit with upgraded shafts.
Old 06-17-2015, 05:47 PM
  #25  
Banned
 
2000CHERO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
Received 45 Likes on 45 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by MY.92.2DR.PROJECT
well after listening to you guys I am going to go with a 8.25 from a 99' automatic (for the 29 splines) and have it and my existing d30 re-geared to 4.56( unless I can find a 8.25 already 4.56 ) for the 35" tires and I will be installing b.lee's 3link kit and I will be back in the woods. thanks for all the help
Also looking at this kit, seems simple and solid. If you get yours soon please report back with feedback, not much of it on here yet.
Old 06-17-2015, 08:41 PM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
bryweb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

I have a set of 35's ready to go on my current build (trail rig), plan on sticking with my Chrysler 8.25 (ZJ disks in back) and my Dana 30 (going Lokka Lunchbox F&R), since I bought the rear axle with 4.56 gears I am going that route for now, but if I had my choice I would have chosen 4.88's. I have another set of axles sitting in the garage, I will probably build the Dana 30 with a truss, Alloy Shafts (RCV Axle shafts if I can afford them), and a lunchbox, and the 8.25 with a Detroit in back...... and give my daughter the 4.56 axles. Then if I go bigger 37-40's I will go with a Ford HP44 upfront (unless a cheap 60 falls in my lap) and a 14 bolt shaved in back.... Just my 2 cents
Old 06-17-2015, 08:50 PM
  #27  
Seasoned Member
 
sreeb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by 2000CHERO
I haven't experienced any shaft breaks myself, nor witnessed them first hand, but from friends that have broken shafts, regardless of axle, they all broke right around where the shaft turns to spline. I'm prob wrong, but if that's where the shaft breaks you're going to be opening up the diff to get the smaller piece out regardless of c-clips or not right?

FWIW, I'm building an 8.8, couldn't pass up on one $100 already pulled. Plus parts are everywhere, and if I break the 31sp shafts on the 33/35" tires that I'll have the next 3-4 years, I blame my stupidity not the axle. When I eventually go to 37(we all say we'll never go above __" tire, but who are we kidding), I'll get the c-clip elim kit with upgraded shafts.
The issue is that if you break a c-clip axle, your wheel falls off.
Old 06-18-2015, 12:41 AM
  #28  
CF Veteran
 
andrewmp6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

The early bronco dana 44 is 58 inches wide,Full size will be 65 or wider depending what its from.
Old 06-18-2015, 11:39 AM
  #29  
Senior Member
 
bryweb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by sreeb
The issue is that if you break a c-clip axle, your wheel falls off.
Not if you have Disc Breaks as they will hold the axle in, then you can at least limp it back to camp / off the trail.
Old 06-18-2015, 11:43 AM
  #30  
Senior Member
 
bryweb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by andrewmp6
The early bronco dana 44 is 58 inches wide,Full size will be 65 or wider depending what its from.
The Early Ford Bronco 66-76 axles are close to the stock width, and same bolt pattern, but the axle tubes are much thinner than some other Dana 44's available. Also with lockout hubs up front, many jeep rims will not bolt on.


Quick Reply: best JY axle upgrades for XJ ?????



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:42 PM.