Bar Pin Elininators + Bilstein 5100 Vulcanized Bar Pins
12-07-2015, 12:17 AM
#16
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Year: '98
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I am going to try Oreily's tomorrow, and 4 wheel parts if that doesn't pan out.
These might work, but I want to match the BPE bolt sleeve to the bushing in person so I don't waste time and money ordering the wrong parts.
They are;
https://www.my4by.com/bilstein-triple-coating.html
But then again salt is salt;
12-19-2015, 10:46 PM
#18
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Just an FYI
I ended up using Energy 9.8107G Bushings.
They fit the shock and BPE kit perfectly -- these are the ones you want to get. I paid $5 and change, and they had a whole box of them in stock.
I needed a big vice and some PB blaster to remove the old bar-pin bushings, but you could also drill out the bushing around the bar pin and press them out that way. New ones pressed in by hand, with some silicon lube to help things along.
Install is tomorrow, fingers crossed that I dont break any bolts!!
I ended up using Energy 9.8107G Bushings.
They fit the shock and BPE kit perfectly -- these are the ones you want to get. I paid $5 and change, and they had a whole box of them in stock.
I needed a big vice and some PB blaster to remove the old bar-pin bushings, but you could also drill out the bushing around the bar pin and press them out that way. New ones pressed in by hand, with some silicon lube to help things along.
Install is tomorrow, fingers crossed that I dont break any bolts!!
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1Bolt (06-29-2019)
12-19-2015, 10:53 PM
#19
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Just an FYI
I ended up using Energy 9.8107G Bushings.
Amazon.com: Energy Suspension 9.8107G 5/8" Hourglass Shock Eye Bushing: Automotive
They fit the shock and BPE kit perfectly -- these are the ones you want to get. I paid $5 and change, and they had a whole box of them in stock.
I needed a big vice and some PB blaster to remove the old bar-pin bushings, but you could also drill out the bushing around the bar pin and press them out that way. New ones pressed in by hand, with some silicon lube to help things along.
Install is tomorrow, fingers crossed that I dont break any bolts!!
I ended up using Energy 9.8107G Bushings.
Amazon.com: Energy Suspension 9.8107G 5/8" Hourglass Shock Eye Bushing: Automotive
They fit the shock and BPE kit perfectly -- these are the ones you want to get. I paid $5 and change, and they had a whole box of them in stock.
I needed a big vice and some PB blaster to remove the old bar-pin bushings, but you could also drill out the bushing around the bar pin and press them out that way. New ones pressed in by hand, with some silicon lube to help things along.
Install is tomorrow, fingers crossed that I dont break any bolts!!
Those are the same bushings I went with too. My install is next weekend. Start hitting that penetrating oil now.
12-30-2015, 01:01 PM
#20
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Forgot to update this thread.
Got the shocks in this past weekend. Only broke 2 of the 4 bolts for the upper rear mount, but I replaced them all anyways.
The Energy 9.8107G bushings fit the Rocky Road BPE's perfectly, and fit in the Bilstein 5100s perfectly as well.
The only negative I can say about Rocky Road's BPE kit is they only shipped the kit with grade 5 hardware, and I upgraded it to Grade 8 anyways (it would have cost them what, an additional $.10 to go with higher grade bolts)? The bracket itself looks great - both tabs are welded on both sides (as opposed to just 1 side on some cheaper competitors). The base was nice and flat, and it bolted up to the upper shock mount with absolutely zero problems. 9/10 - would definitely recommend their rear kit. No binding even at extreme flex, and it does keep the shock rotated in the proper orientation.
I am kind of right in-between shock sizes though. The 4.5" lift 5100 is too short (even with the BPE kit), but the 6.5" lift shock would have been too long. I estimate that I am only .75" shorter than I need to be though (at full extension/drop). Good enough for me, I would have to fab a larger BPE bracket to drop the shock further if I wanted it to be 100% perfect.
I also did not realize how trashed the Rubicon Express shocks I was replacing were until I got them out of the truck. Only 30K miles on them too, hopefully the Bilsteins last a bit longer...
I decided on the Iron Rock Offroad BPE kit for my front shocks, but I actually need to figure out if it will offer me enough "lift" to use the shorter 4.5" lift kit 5100 shock. I think it should be fine, or as close as I can get. If it is not going to work, I may need to use the BPE kit + one of these stem-to-eyelet adapters to give me additional drop;
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16...FYVFaQod3FwJiw
Pricy though!!
Got the shocks in this past weekend. Only broke 2 of the 4 bolts for the upper rear mount, but I replaced them all anyways.
The Energy 9.8107G bushings fit the Rocky Road BPE's perfectly, and fit in the Bilstein 5100s perfectly as well.
The only negative I can say about Rocky Road's BPE kit is they only shipped the kit with grade 5 hardware, and I upgraded it to Grade 8 anyways (it would have cost them what, an additional $.10 to go with higher grade bolts)? The bracket itself looks great - both tabs are welded on both sides (as opposed to just 1 side on some cheaper competitors). The base was nice and flat, and it bolted up to the upper shock mount with absolutely zero problems. 9/10 - would definitely recommend their rear kit. No binding even at extreme flex, and it does keep the shock rotated in the proper orientation.
I am kind of right in-between shock sizes though. The 4.5" lift 5100 is too short (even with the BPE kit), but the 6.5" lift shock would have been too long. I estimate that I am only .75" shorter than I need to be though (at full extension/drop). Good enough for me, I would have to fab a larger BPE bracket to drop the shock further if I wanted it to be 100% perfect.
I also did not realize how trashed the Rubicon Express shocks I was replacing were until I got them out of the truck. Only 30K miles on them too, hopefully the Bilsteins last a bit longer...
I decided on the Iron Rock Offroad BPE kit for my front shocks, but I actually need to figure out if it will offer me enough "lift" to use the shorter 4.5" lift kit 5100 shock. I think it should be fine, or as close as I can get. If it is not going to work, I may need to use the BPE kit + one of these stem-to-eyelet adapters to give me additional drop;
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16...FYVFaQod3FwJiw
Pricy though!!
Last edited by investinwaffles; 12-30-2015 at 01:10 PM.
12-30-2015, 05:26 PM
#21
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Year: '98
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Oh yes, thanks to everyone that offered advice! Here is a quick rundown for anyone else that stumbles across this thread in the future;
1. Flex out your rig in a parking lot somewhere, and take accurate measurements if you are unsure of what shock you need.
2. The BPE will obviously lengthen the shock by .75"-1"
3. Bar Pins suck - even the vulcanized ones. Poly bushings offer less flex, and thus more control, than rubber bushings. And they are much easier to change if they do become noisy.
4. Get a BPE kit that does NOT rotate the shock mounting position, or else you may encounter binding at certain flex angles. I opted to buy a kit from Rocky Road for the rears, and will be installing Iron Rock Offroad front BPE's.
5. The ENE9.8107G bushing should fit ALL XJ shocks, as they look identical to my old bushings
6. Clearcoat the Bilstein shocks or they will pit and corrode (and probably still will, but hopefully not as bad). If you don't care about looks, I would still recommend painting them with rustoleum or something similar if you live in an area where road salt is prevalent.
7. Even if you dont break off any bolts, replace them with grade 8 hardware. The upper bolts are 5/16 x 18 (Corse Thread), and I bought 1" long bolts which were perfect.
I now have restored my sanity and no longer have to live with HORRIBLY clunky rear shocks. I will post a pic of what the bushings looked like, but it further solidified the idea that I don't want bar pin's anywhere near my rig.
1. Flex out your rig in a parking lot somewhere, and take accurate measurements if you are unsure of what shock you need.
2. The BPE will obviously lengthen the shock by .75"-1"
3. Bar Pins suck - even the vulcanized ones. Poly bushings offer less flex, and thus more control, than rubber bushings. And they are much easier to change if they do become noisy.
4. Get a BPE kit that does NOT rotate the shock mounting position, or else you may encounter binding at certain flex angles. I opted to buy a kit from Rocky Road for the rears, and will be installing Iron Rock Offroad front BPE's.
5. The ENE9.8107G bushing should fit ALL XJ shocks, as they look identical to my old bushings
6. Clearcoat the Bilstein shocks or they will pit and corrode (and probably still will, but hopefully not as bad). If you don't care about looks, I would still recommend painting them with rustoleum or something similar if you live in an area where road salt is prevalent.
7. Even if you dont break off any bolts, replace them with grade 8 hardware. The upper bolts are 5/16 x 18 (Corse Thread), and I bought 1" long bolts which were perfect.
I now have restored my sanity and no longer have to live with HORRIBLY clunky rear shocks. I will post a pic of what the bushings looked like, but it further solidified the idea that I don't want bar pin's anywhere near my rig.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 12-30-2015 at 05:30 PM.
02-02-2016, 08:16 PM
#23
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
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Oh yes, thanks to everyone that offered advice! Here is a quick rundown for anyone else that stumbles across this thread in the future;
1. Flex out your rig in a parking lot somewhere, and take accurate measurements if you are unsure of what shock you need.
2. The BPE will obviously lengthen the shock by .75"-1"
3. Bar Pins suck - even the vulcanized ones. Poly bushings offer less flex, and thus more control, than rubber bushings. And they are much easier to change if they do become noisy.
4. Get a BPE kit that does NOT rotate the shock mounting position, or else you may encounter binding at certain flex angles. I opted to buy a kit from Rocky Road for the rears, and will be installing Iron Rock Offroad front BPE's.
5. The ENE9.8107G bushing should fit ALL XJ shocks, as they look identical to my old bushings
6. Clearcoat the Bilstein shocks or they will pit and corrode (and probably still will, but hopefully not as bad). If you don't care about looks, I would still recommend painting them with rustoleum or something similar if you live in an area where road salt is prevalent.
7. Even if you dont break off any bolts, replace them with grade 8 hardware. The upper bolts are 5/16 x 18 (Corse Thread), and I bought 1" long bolts which were perfect.
I now have restored my sanity and no longer have to live with HORRIBLY clunky rear shocks. I will post a pic of what the bushings looked like, but it further solidified the idea that I don't want bar pin's anywhere near my rig.
1. Flex out your rig in a parking lot somewhere, and take accurate measurements if you are unsure of what shock you need.
2. The BPE will obviously lengthen the shock by .75"-1"
3. Bar Pins suck - even the vulcanized ones. Poly bushings offer less flex, and thus more control, than rubber bushings. And they are much easier to change if they do become noisy.
4. Get a BPE kit that does NOT rotate the shock mounting position, or else you may encounter binding at certain flex angles. I opted to buy a kit from Rocky Road for the rears, and will be installing Iron Rock Offroad front BPE's.
5. The ENE9.8107G bushing should fit ALL XJ shocks, as they look identical to my old bushings
6. Clearcoat the Bilstein shocks or they will pit and corrode (and probably still will, but hopefully not as bad). If you don't care about looks, I would still recommend painting them with rustoleum or something similar if you live in an area where road salt is prevalent.
7. Even if you dont break off any bolts, replace them with grade 8 hardware. The upper bolts are 5/16 x 18 (Corse Thread), and I bought 1" long bolts which were perfect.
I now have restored my sanity and no longer have to live with HORRIBLY clunky rear shocks. I will post a pic of what the bushings looked like, but it further solidified the idea that I don't want bar pin's anywhere near my rig.
How's your Rocky Road BPE kit holding up?
02-03-2016, 10:59 AM
#24
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Year: '98
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They are holding up excellently!
I have hit washboard roads doing 35+mph, Denver city streets every single day, and generally being harsh on the suspension to see if it's going to start creaking or anything.
Still sounds PERFECT - no knocking, no creaking, feels smooth and tight. Checked tightness of the bolts the other week and nothing had budged (I used brand new grade 8 hardware with lock-washers for that reason).
I have hit washboard roads doing 35+mph, Denver city streets every single day, and generally being harsh on the suspension to see if it's going to start creaking or anything.
Still sounds PERFECT - no knocking, no creaking, feels smooth and tight. Checked tightness of the bolts the other week and nothing had budged (I used brand new grade 8 hardware with lock-washers for that reason).
02-03-2016, 09:38 PM
#25
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
They are holding up excellently!
I have hit washboard roads doing 35+mph, Denver city streets every single day, and generally being harsh on the suspension to see if it's going to start creaking or anything.
Still sounds PERFECT - no knocking, no creaking, feels smooth and tight. Checked tightness of the bolts the other week and nothing had budged (I used brand new grade 8 hardware with lock-washers for that reason).
I have hit washboard roads doing 35+mph, Denver city streets every single day, and generally being harsh on the suspension to see if it's going to start creaking or anything.
Still sounds PERFECT - no knocking, no creaking, feels smooth and tight. Checked tightness of the bolts the other week and nothing had budged (I used brand new grade 8 hardware with lock-washers for that reason).
02-04-2016, 12:46 PM
#28
Senior Member
02-04-2016, 08:04 PM
#29
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