Alright my factory header cracked at the collector a couple of years ago, so I ended up replacing it with a Banks header, which was heavier duty and seemed like good quality when I swapped it in. But I have noticed that the engine has sounded a bit louder lately, so I checked around tonight and noticed that it to has cracked where the 3 rear pipes come together, I can fit my finger nail in it pretty easy. (cold of course)

So what brands have you all had luck with? I am more concerned with low end torque than I am with top end, and I definitely don't want to have to swap this again in the future... what a PIA. Thanks

 

just put the factory back in, lol

but honestly, buy some schedule 40 steel pipe and use it to copy the bank header...

 

i suggest these headers! i've been a happy owner for a little over a year now...they look kewl and better yet no cracks! and i put my jeep thru hell and back lol.

http://www.ineedparts.com/auto-parts...-manifold.html

 

Any chance you can just weld up the cracks and keep using the Banks header?

 

Its a good idea to weld in a flex pipe in the down tube to prevent crack headers in the future.

 

i wonder what the life time warrenty covers?

 

Thanks I will be considering the flex tube as I will be replacing the whole exhaust this time. Already ordered the Dynomax Super Turbo exhaust, hard to beat with the $75 rebate on top of the low price. Will be replacing the O2 sensors and Cat, and then a custom I will weld up myself from the header to the Cat. Get rid of that factory pinch point.

Also I called Banks and their warranty is 5yrs replacement and then it looses 10% of cost each year after that, down to 50%. They came out with a new header this past year so it will take 1-2wks for them to do a custom order of the old model for the warranty. I have to send mine in first though.

 

Mind sharing details on that rebate?

Off to find who sells the dynomax cheapest now....

 

I'm returning my APN header this week cause I'm dumb and cracked it. The email they sent me was just lift time warranty on the the header when i told them it cracked, No questions asked.

I replaced my down tube with an aftermarket one but didn't bother to test clearances, yea the front ds would hit the down tube where that dent is suppose to be and cracked my header. look out for that.

 

Here is the link to Dynomax's website for the system I bought http://www.dynomax.com/application_i...e-w-4.0l-17340

Right below the picture in the graphics link that says Get $75 Back, Sound off Promotion http://www.dynomax.com/promotions.php

Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-17340/ $139.95

or

Dynomax thru Amazon $139.95 with free shipping

 

Has anyone used the ebay header? I know there is one that says its ceramic coated. Not sure how well it would do. But I thought its cheap and I planned on heat wrapping it as well. I bought an ebay header for my old Integra and it was actually really nice. Had it on for over 2 years then sold it and it looked almost the same as the day I got it. No cracks or any weathering really. Still shined nice and the color was almost the same. I just thought I would ask. Im not looking for performance really but something to throw on there thats heat wrapped. Any one try the ebay one or should I be the first?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-...item3cb48eae58


Like this

 

Idk the stock or OEM header had/has a recall. so if you buy a OEM from some dealer chances are it is the OEM one with the recall right? idk i KNOW the stock one had a recall. So should we go aftermarket?

 

I notice these aren't listed for 2000-2001 models. Seems like I've heard something about their (2000-01) intake being bigger and some headers won't fit because of that. The ebay headers are listed to fit 2000's, which matters to me because that's what I have. Any ideas?

 

You might want to check all of your mounts. A worn out engine or trans mount will crack any header.

00-01 headers are different because of the additional o2 sensor and they are cast iron. The 99+ intake manifolds work fine with headers EXCEPT the APN. The APN #6 cylinder pipe can hit the bottom of the last intake runner. Doesn't always happen- but it often does. You can grind a little aluminum off the bottom of the runner or dent the exhaust pipe for clearance. If it's really bad, then you'll have to do both like I had to.