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Axle upgrade help

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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 12:05 PM
  #46  
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
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Originally Posted by holycaveman
We know the same things Atmos. We are looking at it two different ways. And that is our opinion. For me if I could have a 100:1 ratio I would never break anything. Except for the pinion because it would be the size of a tooth pick.

Off topic but running taller gears is like adding hp to your motor. As far as situation. Gearing low you lose power. This is why I want to run tall gears. 3:07 I have been considering. I have experimented with this a lot in the past. Is depends of course on application. For instance 1/4 mile racing. Gear too tall and you are slower, gear to low and you are slower. You have to gear just right if you are to make use of what you have.
the difference is I get what you're saying but you're missing my point entirely. it's not adding HP it's adding torque. so by that logic adding huge tires is like taking away torque. running deeper gears would be more like maintaining stock engine output (plus or minus). so currently you're taking away torque and forcing your tcase to make up for it.

drag cars are apples and oranges to xj's. your "de-gearing" theory would work if you were increasing HP significantly and swapping to a transmission that has deeper gears.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 12:49 PM
  #47  
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I am substantially lightening my xj. While not actually adding hp, it acts as such.

Anyways I am trying to run gears that are optimum for my application. Right now as in my test at the last wheeling event I am not lacking in power or torque. In fact it feels as though the motor will pull taller gearing than it is. Now if your motor will pull efficiently taller gearing without crapping out anything less is a loss in performance. Unless you are wanting that slow control. I am not. After my current mods are finished I may very well be going to 3:07's if I feel the 4.0 will pull it well in low range 1st gear. And still creep through places like the lions den.

So by your philosophy with 3:07's and 36's I should never break a thing. Win, win! LOL.

Last edited by holycaveman; Nov 5, 2014 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #48  
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Sorry for the off topic. I just find this stuff entertaining to talk about.

On topic. I am staying with a D30 on 36's. I Believe set up properly you will be reliable and have more clearance than an axle upgrade. It may very well cost you more. But i think it's worth it. My opinion.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #49  
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eh.. you're talking small potatoes here. hope you're not removing any sheet metal without adding a cage (of course you're not adding a cage, that would add too much weight!)
and dropping down a numerical ratio because you're losing 40lbs of jeep weight sounds to me a lot like handling an angle grinder without gloves because they might get caught in the disc and become more of a danger.

your warped logic never ceases to amaze me
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:23 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
eh.. you're talking small potatoes here. hope you're not removing any sheet metal without adding a cage (of course you're not adding a cage, that would add too much weight!)
and dropping down a numerical ratio because you're losing 40lbs of jeep weight sounds to me a lot like handling an angle grinder without gloves because they might get caught in the disc and become more of a danger.

your warped logic never ceases to amaze me


LOL. That was not my post.

Try 400lbs. With a 3300 lb jeep I would say that is substantial.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 02:54 PM
  #51  
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that's still not enough to drop down a gear ratio ya knucklehead.
what are you removing? the hood and roof? exhaust? rear hatch?





as usual, I guess I'll just grab some popcorn and watch
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
that's still not enough to drop down a gear ratio ya knucklehead.
what are you removing? the hood and roof? exhaust? rear hatch?





as usual, I guess I'll just grab some popcorn and watch
5 doors, rear tank, complete ac system, the entire interior except for drivers and passengers seats and dash. Evap system, factory roof rack. Shoot I lost over a 100 lbs off the nose and engine compartment.

Substantial braking and acceleration improvement. One of the best drivetrain durability upgrades you can ever do is to lose weight.

Bottom line is carpet sucks unless you have a mall crawler and wear suits. I never have used my rear seat for anything except junk. I will never need more than 12 gallons of fuel, etc... just shedding the dead weight from crap I will never use. The doors can be put back on for winter. I just love it when I don't have to have it as a daily driver anymore. LOL
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:22 PM
  #53  
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lol. you gonna start doing sit ups and go on a diet too?

lighter is better. but come on man that's still not a good reason to go with a taller gear. your poor transmission..
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #54  
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Yea the tranny is taking a lot on. I have a large diesel transmission cooler for it. And I am a surgeon with the throttle. I am counting on those two to pull through for me.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 11:39 PM
  #55  
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Stock axles will be fine for me......

JEEP CHEROKEE AIRS IT OUT!:
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by holycaveman
Stock axles will be fine for me...... JEEP CHEROKEE AIRS IT OUT!: Video Link: http://youtu.be/sKfGrExdve8
Right. What's the point to upgrade if you're gonna destroy it anyway. I'm gonna enter mine into the demo derby next week.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 12:20 AM
  #57  
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Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
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Ive ran the d30 on the front for awhile. With 33s/34s/35s. 4.10 gears and a Stroker . I have yet to break any internals BUT I did snap two tubes. I have since bought a 3rd and trussed/sleeved it- no problems yet!

I plan on bumping up to 4.88s soon so we will see what happens at that point lol. I'm just careful to wheel hop it as little as possible and its been fine.

Ive almost pulled the trigger on a couple different sets of JK rubi44s. Go for cheap on JK forum when they throw 60s on. Come with lockers and moving the brackets around isn't too hard. I would like the slightly wider stance. problem is they are 5.5 on 5 and I don't ever want to pony up the cash for New rims.

Last edited by Ianf406; Nov 6, 2014 at 12:25 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 04:16 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by holycaveman

We know the same things Atmos. We are looking at it two different ways. And that is our opinion. For me if I could have a 100:1 ratio I would never break anything. Except for the pinion because it would be the size of a tooth pick.

Off topic but running taller gears is like adding hp to your motor. As far as situation. Gearing low you lose power. This is why I want to run tall gears. 3:07 I have been considering. I have experimented with this a lot in the past. Is depends of course on application. For instance 1/4 mile racing. Gear too tall and you are slower, gear to low and you are slower. You have to gear just right if you are to make use of what you have.

I am taking this way of thinking for my application off road. Rather than what is "standard" just if some may be wondering why I would run taller gears off road. Hopefully my videos soon enough will show you. And if my little plan fails it was fun trying.
I don't know why you think that is an even remotely good idea.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by mr white
I don't know why you think that is an even remotely good idea.
It's not driven on the street. I only care about one thing. And that is capability. I DON'T care about good ideas or a how everyone else does it.

So it's either run 4:88' and hope I can pull second, or hope I can do everything with first.

In which first gear geared properly is useless for me on some of the hills I climb.

Maybe I can pull second with 4:88 and a modified tranny? If this way won't accomplish what I want I will try it.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 09:29 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by holycaveman

It's not driven on the street. I only care about one thing. And that is capability. I DON'T care about good ideas or a how everyone else does it.

So it's either run 4:88' and hope I can pull second, or hope I can do everything with first.

In which first gear geared properly is useless for me on some of the hills I climb.

Maybe I can pull second with 4:88 and a modified tranny? If this way won't accomplish what I want I will try it.
With 3.07s and 33s my minimum speed at idle was like 7mph. It was an absolute dog. No power to get up hills or anything. But hell if you want 3.07s. Go for it.
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