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Axle upgrade help

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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 09:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by holycaveman
I am running a locked lp 30 on 36's. The trick is to not turn sharp and gas it. Other that that it is what it is.

Going to go with a hp30 and molys. And that will be that.
And you don't have gears. Which makes quite a difference in longevity of parts
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
And you don't have gears. Which makes quite a difference in longevity of parts
Actually it's the opposite of what you would think. Unless you are one of those that stay on the gas even though your wheel is completely bound up.

But in low range first gear it matters little.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 12:02 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by holycaveman

Actually it's the opposite of what you would think. Unless you are one of those that stay on the gas even though your wheel is completely bound up.

But in low range first gear it matters little.
That's not true. I know for a fact there is more torque generated with my 4.56 gears than there would be with 3.55s and especially 3.07s.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 08:39 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by torque062
That's not true. I know for a fact there is more torque generated with my 4.56 gears than there would be with 3.55s and especially 3.07s.
Actually it is true. But it's tough to debate this on a forum. And there are a lot of variables to consider. So we will just have to disagree.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #20  
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So if I don't want to run D60s, but I want to run 37s then what is the best solution???

I don't want to run D60s bc running 37s with D60s affords you the same amount of clearance as a D30 with 31s or 33s

Is there anyway you could build a HPD30 to survive 37s?
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:11 AM
  #21  
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Exactly. More than most imagine. I was following a rig with 40" tires and dana 60 ' s. There was a spot in the trail he was high centering. He had to floor It for a second to get through. I run 36's with dana 30 and shaved 8.25. I went through no problems but did have to gas it also. Less though than he did.

That is why I won't run anything but a 30 up front. Don't want the weight and don't want the loss of clearance.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #22  
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As far as what tires you can run on what axle. It's all relative to the operator. I have no doubt I can run 38's reliably with a Dana 30. But my buddy broke his 30 constantly on 34" tires.

I always make certain everything is tip top before i hit the trail. And I am very methodical on the skinny pedal. There is never a "hold it to the wood" situation. I do floor it but just enough and no more.


So for some people a Dana 30 will never work, for some it will.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:21 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Hopkins
So if I don't want to run D60s, but I want to run 37s then what is the best solution??? I don't want to run D60s bc running 37s with D60s affords you the same amount of clearance as a D30 with 31s or 33s Is there anyway you could build a HPD30 to survive 37s?
Do you want it to "survive" or do you want it to actually be reliable off road. They are two very different things. You can build a D30 to "survive" 37's, but how long it lasts will depend on how/where you drive it. It's physics. Bigger tires=higher stress on the axle=more breakage.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:27 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by LAF1269
Do you want it to "survive" or do you want it to actually be reliable off road. They are two very different things. You can build a D30 to "survive" 37's, but how long it lasts will depend on how/where you drive it. It's physics. Bigger tires=higher stress on the axle=more breakage.
This is true. But some people break 60 ' s pretty easily.

My goal is to make the obstacle and drive it back to the trailer. Nothing else matters for me. I don't care about reliability a year from now. It's only for one event or one weekend.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:56 AM
  #25  
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that's exactly what I was saying. bigger tires without gears makes a difference in longevity of parts. they last longer because you've got no torque to break anything. someone who regeared will not have the same results as you with 36's.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 10:07 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
that's exactly what I was saying. bigger tires without gears makes a difference in longevity of parts. they last longer because you've got no torque to break anything. someone who regeared will not have the same results as you with 36's.
Completely dissagree. But like I said. It's opinions at this point.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #27  
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The lower the gears the more control a person has for their application. The less of a strain on parts, and the less you have to press on the skinny pedal. Torque is relative to loads and application. With lower gears less torque is applied because you have much better control. With tall gears you often have to apply way more pressure than is needed because of the lack of control you have.

My motor does not bog down in low range. I have more than enough power to snap axles.

If you simply are measuring pressure per throttle percentage then sure lower gears will apply more pressure with equal amounts of throttle.

Last edited by holycaveman; Nov 4, 2014 at 10:36 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #28  
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it's like you get it but you still want to argue about it anyway

if you're spinning a 36" tire with stock gears and your tire grabs traction and comes to a stop, hopefully you don't have enough torque going from your diff to your tire to snap anything. if you have gears and your 36" tires comes to a stop but your diff has enough torque to keep going, it's going to spin parts right in half.

this is why people with built up 30's do not last very long on tires greater than a 35".
go ahead smart guy. put some 4.88's in there and tell us how it goes

Last edited by Atmos; Nov 4, 2014 at 01:00 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 01:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
it's like you get it but you still want to argue about it anyway

if you're spinning a 36" tire with stock gears and your tire grabs traction and comes to a stop, hopefully you don't have enough torque going from your diff to your tire to snap anything. if you have gears and your 36" tires comes to a stop but your diff has enough torque to keep going, it's going to spin parts right in half.

this is why people with built up 30's do not last very long on tires greater than a 35".
go ahead smart guy. put some 4.88's in there and tell us how it goes
I knew we wouldn't get anywhere. LoL. Because it's just opinion and can not be anything but.

I could break a 14 bolt geared 100:1 with 40" tires and a 50 hp motor. And I could break a 14 bolt geared 2:1 and 30" tires with 5000 hp.

If you are blind to the "feel" . It's all relative to driver and application. That is why some guys can break an anvil and some guys get away with murder. And is also why it is a no win argument.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #30  
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you're going off of YOUR driving style. under your controlled foot. how often to parts break in controlled situations? oh yeah almost never you can go by feel all day and still have an accident

if you're wailing on it and your tire comes to a stop, boom goes the axle shaft. that's how and when parts break. this is easier to do if your tire stops but your axle is geared deep enough to keep going regardless.
and we're not talking about some crazy hypothetical. we're talking about 4.0 XJ's on stock axles. because this is cherokeeforum. that's how they work
you're wrong if you think that you can throw deep AXLE gears in and be fine on taller than recommended tires. unless you're prepared to *****foot it through every trail (which is unlikely, if you could make it through the trail like that then you didn't need over sized tires in the first place)

go ahead. toss some gears in your axles
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