you certainly dont need a 8.8 for 35's.
depending on what you are doing with it, gearing would be the best but it wouldnt be too bad on 32's. 4.10 would be a nice upgrade though.

 

I wouldn't put money into gears unless you go 33's+ its a lot of money to redue later and mine was managable with 32's and 3.55's. 33's made it a dog. Once you move to regearing desid how big you will end up going and do it once.

 

it depends what all you want to do with your jeep I beat on mine pretty hard with a D30/D35 combo open/open and some heavy 33x12.50 TSL bias ply's which are roughly as heavy as most radial 35s. Mine has an 8.8" with a traclok reshimmed and an extra clutch (basically a locker) going to keep the D30 for 35's or another batch of TSL's haven't decided yet. As long as you are not an idiot you can wheel 33's on a D35. I also run stock gears in mine 3.55s and 33's are ok but I am swapping to 4.88s.

 

If I swap in a C8.25 with 29 spl as you say, will that be an issue with my HP D30 27 spl? Or does just the gear ratio make that decision? I have 3:55 at the moment.

 

Ya, just gotta make sure the 8.25 has 3.55's.

 

I have a 29 spline 8.25 with an aussie locker, and a D30 front with later ABS front axles, and it is holding up to my 32's just fine, and am gonna put a aussie in the front sooner rather than later.

Edit the 29 spline bolts in place, and disc brakes can be swapped on, also is not quite as strong as an 8.8, but close, just less aftermarket options than the 8.8

 

Would I be good with just a rear locker or would it be better to have both front and rear lockers? I don't want to overkill but I don't want to get stuck when I wheel either.

 

Well, with a front and rear locker you have a true 4x4 where as a rear locker gives you a 3x4, lol a rear locker alone help tremendously off road, and BTW you can usually snab a 8.25 29 spline cheap

 

you could also look for an 8.25 with a limited slip since thats what you posted that you want originally. I believe that they exist

 

exactly. Just a rear is a HUGE difference. with the front it really enables you to take different lines, and get up and over obstacles easier, but not comparrable as far as difference from open when compared to the rear.
i was locked rear only first and it was great. then I locked the front and its just that much better.

 

Yea, since starting this thread and doing more research, I've determined that I won't need an 8.8". I think the maximum I'll lift my ride is about 5" and max tire size will probably cap out at 33's. Disc-brakes are an eventual must which was why the 8.8" was so appealing. I think I'm going to just find me a C8.25 and put disc-brakes on it, then swap it under. I've got a HP D30 which I will put 297x U-joint shafts in. I'm thinking that will be plenty strong for maxing out at 33's. Also, I'll weld the axle tubes to the diff housing. Sound like a sturdy setup to everyone?

 

quick FYI for that chart you posted. It is not correct for our transmissions. If you have an auto, multiply the RPM by .75. If youve got a stick multiply it by .79 and that will give you the actual RPM you will turn

 

Seeing how the op has an 88(according to his sig) would be advisable to weld the spiders in the front and keep the disco? If his has the disco..my 88 does.

found this tread interesting as im in the same boat.

Tons of great info here..and good find on the ratio chart.

 

I would not weld a D30... just to abusive all the time IMO.

 

I run 33's on 4" lift, d30 and c8.25 27 spline with a lockrite. Having a manual and bouncing around the rocks have caused no issues. Still can lock up all 4 tires if i want with drums. I think your over thinking this