Ordering rear axle shafts. Can someone identify the strengths and weaknesses of the 1540 steel shafts vs. the 4140 or 4340 chromoly? Which suits the dana 35 better?

John

In order of strength, weakest first.

1540
4140
4340

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=785735

Keep in mind that your front axle see's far more abuse than you rear axle, that's where you should spend your money first.

Adding alloy shafts to a D35 is not a panacea to axle breakage. The D35 shafts break as a result of tube flex at the differential. Trussing the housing should be considered as a part of any D35 upgrade. Keep in mind that by the time you've built the D35 you could have replaced the axle with a stronger one for far less money.

End of thread. Well said

Yep.

Op I got an Chrysler 8.25 I'll sell you for 50$. Lol found one on craigslist For 50 today.

Thanks for the clarification on strength. I am committed at this point to keeping the d35. With my realitively light tire/wheel combo and a rather... ahem... old man... wheeling style, I think I can make it last.

I was asking about the strength to identify which axle shafts to put in the 35. I got a suggestion today to do the zj disk brake modification so that if it breaks the wheel will stay on for at least a little bit and that seems like good advice also.

Thanks

John

Understood.
Please stop by my site and check out the AlloyUSA shafts.

That's whAt they all say.

1540 alloy is all you're going to find. 4340 chromo is too hard for a semi float axle and would snap faster than stock shaft, they are for full float axles and fronts, which are also full float. The 1540 alloy allows more twist than stock and that's why they tend to break less.

Incorrect.
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=75561

I'll admit when I'm wrong but that's what I was always told at driveline shops. Alloy will twist more and is good for semi float and chromo doesn't twist well and is good for full float. On a side note what's the difference in 4140 and 4340? I run 4340 front and rear and saw those you linked were 4140 and I'm not familiar with it. They claim the same 35% increase as 1540.

c-clip and semi float are driven the axact same way. from the spider in the carrier. so being c-clip or semi-float shouldnt make one bit of difference, the axle doesnt know that its a clip, or bearing retainer holding it in.
1540 is only a slight difference to what the stock shaft is made up of, it is plain carbon steel. I believe it has a higher silicon content but Im not positive. I forget. If your gonna run a d35 than definitely find a good alloy steel, anything that begins in 4xxx.

I will be checking on a backordered set form elsewhere in the morning. If I can cancel that order, I will be contacting you tomorrow. I appreciate your help.

I have a HD diff cover waiting to go on and a spartan locker waiting to go in when I swap the axle shafts. I thought perhpas trussing by welding truss to the 3/8" diff cover and using some spare ubolts to secure truss to the axle tube. Similar to Superior d35 truss, http://www.superioraxlegear.com/ev35...r-p-13783.html

I had been told that it would cause undue stress on the diff housing as some flex would still occur.

Thoughts?

Don't weld the truss to the diff cover unless you don't plan on changing the dope or ever replacing a shaft. Weld a truss to the tubes and housing. I built one for my brother's 8.25 out of c channel and it was cheap and worked out well.

don't lock a d35