Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:04 AM
  #61  
94JeepCherokeeMan's Avatar
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From: Southern Idaho
Year: 1994
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You can see in the photo where the ends are flared. The "OUT" connection of the Y-pipe after the O2 sensor is necked down a hair to make it easier to slip a pipe on there and clamp it on.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:05 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by baseballbaker
A 9/16 ratchet wrench will save u a bunch of time
I think I have one in my tool box, actually. All my wrenches are ratcheting combos, I just have to make sure the 9/16 is in there and not floating around somewhere else in the Jeep.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:07 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 94JeepCherokeeMan
On another note, how much time did you spend getting to that point? I don't get home until five, so I've got about four hours before dark and I'll have to drive to work in the morning.
Took me about 2.5 hours to get to that point. But this was my fourth time taking the manifolds off. Getting it all back together was another story. All in all it took me about 5 hours.

Originally Posted by baseballbaker
A 9/16 ratchet wrench will save u a bunch of time
Yes, have a 9/16" socket and deepwell socket for torquing the front and rear stud nuts, and a 9/16" ratcheting wrench is very handy as well. Also every combination of extensions and U-joints is needed. I used 14mm with success as well although 9/16" is the proper size I believe. I also used an electric driver for the belt tensioner (makes it go a lot faster!)
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:10 AM
  #64  
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I don't have an electric driver or air wrench, but I've dealt with the serp belt on my '94 before. I have that process down-pat. Takes me like thirty seconds to pull my airbox these days LOL

I'll need to go grab a couple U-joints, I've been wanting some for a while anyway. I might get a normal toolbox while I'm at it. For 3 or 4 years now, I've had the original case that came with my Crescent brand toolset. It works pretty good, but the latches are broken and the handle came off. I've definitely used the sh** out of it, not bad for $89 at CostCo.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:13 AM
  #65  
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Quick question for you guys: Do the O2 sensor wires have enough slack to reach a bit further down the pipe on a '97? IIRC on my '94, there was a small bundle of extra wire zip-stripped for the O2 sensor. If not, I'll have to lengthen them and seal them up good.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:14 AM
  #66  
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Another quick question:

Does anyone have the torque specs for the exhaust bolts and intake manifold bolts?
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:21 AM
  #67  
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They dont have a ton of slavk at I believe anywhere from 24-26 foot pounds
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:27 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 94JeepCherokeeMan
Another quick question:

Does anyone have the torque specs for the exhaust bolts and intake manifold bolts?
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #69  
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Thanks, guys, it's much appreciated. I have a new torque wrench waiting on my doorstep back at the apartment.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #70  
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Wow, I just read through this thread again and realized what a massive thread jack it was. If I update again, I'll just start my own thread and post links. Sorry about that, OP, didn't mean to jack up your thread.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #71  
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Ahh its no biggy just this way we can keep all the info in one place and good luck getting your t wrench to the bottow bolts there a pain
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:59 AM
  #72  
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ok. that slip fit in the middle of the primaries bothers me. I guess it could be welded. just another potential leak, as if there aren't enough as is.

post back up on how the install and fitment go. I want to use a pacesetter header, but have read nothing but negative comments on fitment.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 11:05 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
Took me about 2.5 hours to get to that point. But this was my fourth time taking the manifolds off. Getting it all back together was another story. All in all it took me about 5 hours. Yes, have a 9/16" socket and deepwell socket for torquing the front and rear stud nuts, and a 9/16" ratcheting wrench is very handy as well. Also every combination of extensions and U-joints is needed. I used 14mm with success as well although 9/16" is the proper size I believe. I also used an electric driver for the belt tensioner (makes it go a lot faster!)
i don't even need u joints to do the bolts and nuts lol. Just a 6 inch and 3 inch extensions with deep well 9/16 and normal 9/16 is all I need
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 11:06 AM
  #74  
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All of my aftermarket exhaust on my street bike are slip flange, the whole exhaust is held on by springs.... You should be good.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 11:14 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by s346k
ok. that slip fit in the middle of the primaries bothers me. I guess it could be welded. just another potential leak, as if there aren't enough as is.

post back up on how the install and fitment go. I want to use a pacesetter header, but have read nothing but negative comments on fitment.
Haha! I just realized that you and I have almost the exact same setup, but mine's a four door. '97, 4.0 AW4, NP231, ChryCo 8.25" rear, '99 intake with 703 injectors, might be using the same headers... Hell, I did a "hot-air" intake, too!

Have you bored your throttle body?
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