Another Axle Question (D44 vs. C8.25)
10-24-2018, 07:46 PM
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Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Another Axle Question (D44 vs. C8.25)
I'm looking at getting rid of the D35 in my Cherokee. It has survived a bunch of wheeling this summer including but I want peace of mind and a locker. I'm not willing to put money into the D35.
I'm on a 4.5 inch lift running 31's. I'd be putting an aussie locker in whatever new axle I put in. No immediate plans for bigger tires since I don't want to regear until I'm confident I can do the project myself.
So, will a 29 spline C8.25 hold up to locked 31's? There's a bunch of Cherokees at the junk yards near me and I think I can score an axle for under $200 bucks.
All the D44's I've found are about $550. If I am not going to go for 35's, do I even need the extra strength or will my wallet just be lighter?
I'm on a 4.5 inch lift running 31's. I'd be putting an aussie locker in whatever new axle I put in. No immediate plans for bigger tires since I don't want to regear until I'm confident I can do the project myself.
So, will a 29 spline C8.25 hold up to locked 31's? There's a bunch of Cherokees at the junk yards near me and I think I can score an axle for under $200 bucks.
All the D44's I've found are about $550. If I am not going to go for 35's, do I even need the extra strength or will my wallet just be lighter?
10-24-2018, 07:55 PM
#2
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29 spline 8.25s are good for up to 35s reliably while locked. its a very good light duty axle even if it has c-clips at least the axles right and left are the same length so you only need to bring one if you feel the need for a spare. I ran a lunch box locked 8.25 with 31's and 33's with no problems.
10-24-2018, 08:13 PM
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That’s what I was hoping to hear. I’m going to head back out to Moab again. All that grip there had me constantly worried I was going to pop something in the d35.
10-25-2018, 09:59 AM
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L
And I have seen a welded d35 run 33s for 4 years with no problems . . not saying not to upgrade . . but to run just 31s why dump the money into an axle swap and locker?
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10-25-2018, 10:24 AM
#9
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Because when you do break it and decide to switch to an 8.25 you will be buying another locker for it. Welding the Dana 35 would make more sense since it doesn't cost much.
10-25-2018, 12:03 PM
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Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
C8.25's in the 29 spline variety can be had all day long (especially in Colorado) for around $100, and are pretty much a bolt in affair.
D44's tend to still carry their value (~$3-400+), but really, in my opinion, aren't much worth it these days unless you already have on (or found one at the JY).
Strength wise, the D44 and C8.25 are very similar (with the 8.25 edging out the D44 IIRC), just the 8.25 is a C-Clip.
However, a disc brake setup for the 8.25 can easily be had, and many KJ's 8.25 rear disc brake setups are direct bolt on as well.
You could knock out two stones, and pull an 8.25 from an XJ (late model for 29 spline), and pull the backing plates and everything of a KJ 8.25, and buy it as one axle.
Bolt in aside, if one were going to spend the money, an 8.8 can also be easily found for swap (limited slip or open, 3.55 to 4.10 gears, and disc brakes, 31 spline). That takes a hair bit more work, but for not much more than a stock D44, one could have an 8.8 in place. This assumes the D44 (like any I've seen) should be completely gone through (seals, brakes, etc.)
D44's tend to still carry their value (~$3-400+), but really, in my opinion, aren't much worth it these days unless you already have on (or found one at the JY).
Strength wise, the D44 and C8.25 are very similar (with the 8.25 edging out the D44 IIRC), just the 8.25 is a C-Clip.
However, a disc brake setup for the 8.25 can easily be had, and many KJ's 8.25 rear disc brake setups are direct bolt on as well.
You could knock out two stones, and pull an 8.25 from an XJ (late model for 29 spline), and pull the backing plates and everything of a KJ 8.25, and buy it as one axle.
Bolt in aside, if one were going to spend the money, an 8.8 can also be easily found for swap (limited slip or open, 3.55 to 4.10 gears, and disc brakes, 31 spline). That takes a hair bit more work, but for not much more than a stock D44, one could have an 8.8 in place. This assumes the D44 (like any I've seen) should be completely gone through (seals, brakes, etc.)
10-25-2018, 12:33 PM
#13
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I've seen them break on stock 225's.
If it were my Jeep, I'd find a later 8.25 and swap it in. It's more than enough for a locker and 31's. And it's a bolt in deal. A few bolts, hook up the brakes and bleed them, and you're good to go.
If it were my Jeep, I'd find a later 8.25 and swap it in. It's more than enough for a locker and 31's. And it's a bolt in deal. A few bolts, hook up the brakes and bleed them, and you're good to go.
10-25-2018, 12:38 PM
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Model: Cherokee(SJ)
C8.25's in the 29 spline variety can be had all day long (especially in Colorado) for around $100, and are pretty much a bolt in affair.
D44's tend to still carry their value (~$3-400+), but really, in my opinion, aren't much worth it these days unless you already have on (or found one at the JY).
Strength wise, the D44 and C8.25 are very similar (with the 8.25 edging out the D44 IIRC), just the 8.25 is a C-Clip.
However, a disc brake setup for the 8.25 can easily be had, and many KJ's 8.25 rear disc brake setups are direct bolt on as well.
You could knock out two stones, and pull an 8.25 from an XJ (late model for 29 spline), and pull the backing plates and everything of a KJ 8.25, and buy it as one axle.
Bolt in aside, if one were going to spend the money, an 8.8 can also be easily found for swap (limited slip or open, 3.55 to 4.10 gears, and disc brakes, 31 spline). That takes a hair bit more work, but for not much more than a stock D44, one could have an 8.8 in place. This assumes the D44 (like any I've seen) should be completely gone through (seals, brakes, etc.)
D44's tend to still carry their value (~$3-400+), but really, in my opinion, aren't much worth it these days unless you already have on (or found one at the JY).
Strength wise, the D44 and C8.25 are very similar (with the 8.25 edging out the D44 IIRC), just the 8.25 is a C-Clip.
However, a disc brake setup for the 8.25 can easily be had, and many KJ's 8.25 rear disc brake setups are direct bolt on as well.
You could knock out two stones, and pull an 8.25 from an XJ (late model for 29 spline), and pull the backing plates and everything of a KJ 8.25, and buy it as one axle.
Bolt in aside, if one were going to spend the money, an 8.8 can also be easily found for swap (limited slip or open, 3.55 to 4.10 gears, and disc brakes, 31 spline). That takes a hair bit more work, but for not much more than a stock D44, one could have an 8.8 in place. This assumes the D44 (like any I've seen) should be completely gone through (seals, brakes, etc.)
Until I am ready to regear, I'm going to keep tires the same size, I'm worried 33s will be a dog on the highway going over passes. I only have 4k miles on my BFGs.
The 8.8 is just more than I need for 31s or even 33s. It's also a little more costly and time consuming since I cannot weld. Plus, I'm worried that the size of the diff may actually be a clearance issue with my 31s.
10-25-2018, 01:23 PM
#15
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