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Old 01-08-2018, 10:36 PM
  #28471  
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Originally Posted by minegun2
Do anyone run 16in wheels or are running 16in wheels? Im going going up a size from 15s to 16s, due to recent upping in prices of 15in tires. and the 16s are becoming the new 15s so the prices are going down. i was looking at 235/85r16s.has anyone one have any personal experience with tires that size in a mud tire? other options are the usual 265s, and 285s. but really interested in trying thoes 235s. Also whats a cheap steel 16x7 in wheels that are out. thanks.
being in the tire business, im not sure I agree with much here haha..prices for 15s are cheap. Plenty of options in 15s as well, they aren't going away... and that is a really oddball size your wanting. Why is that?

edit: realized I read the size wrong. My bad haha

Last edited by Martlor13; 01-08-2018 at 11:55 PM.
Old 01-13-2018, 12:33 PM
  #28472  
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Default More of Ann axle question than lift but still relevant

Hey guys, this is more of an axle question then a Lift or tire question but they still go hand-in-hand. So right now I have a 97XJ on a front d30 and rear d35 and I'm running 3.55 gears on 30in tires. I just bought myself a new set of 33in tires and I'm about $70 away from getting my 4.5 RC lift ordered. So I have a few questions:
I know I'm goin to have to regear my jeep sooner than later to 4:10, but how important will that be to do right away. Also I do drive the freeway a decent amount with it so I know it will need to be done. But this leads me to my next question. Once I buy the lift kit here in a week or so, the next thing on my list are new axles. Quite frankly i just am looking for advice on what axles I should be searching for and if there are requirement I need to know in order to tell if an axle will be functionable under my jeep, I've been looking mostly at d44s. Another thing I'm wondering is if I were to just replace my rear to say a Dana 44 (hypothetically), would I then need to replace my front to a Dana 44 also or could I keep the D30 and just have matching gears. And lastly, is there any advice I should have on the order I should install these, obviously I can't put the tires on until I have the lift but should I wait for a new axle before I put anything on.
Old 01-13-2018, 12:34 PM
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Default More of Ann axle question than lift but still relevant

Hey guys, this is more of an axle question then a Lift or tire question but they still go hand-in-hand. So right now I have a 97XJ on a front d30 and rear d35 and I'm running 3.55 gears on 30in tires. I just bought myself a new set of 33in tires and I'm about $70 away from getting my 4.5 RC lift ordered. So I have a few questions:
I know I'm goin to have to regear my jeep sooner than later to 4:10, but how important will that be to do right away. Also I do drive the freeway a decent amount with it so I know it will need to be done. But this leads me to my next question. Once I buy the lift kit here in a week or so, the next thing on my list are new axles. Quite frankly i just am looking for advice on what axles I should be searching for and if there are requirement I need to know in order to tell if an axle will be functionable under my jeep, I've been looking mostly at d44s. Another thing I'm wondering is if I were to just replace my rear to say a Dana 44 (hypothetically), would I then need to replace my front to a Dana 44 also or could I keep the D30 and just have matching gears. And lastly, is there any advice I should have on the order I should install these, obviously I can't put the tires on until I have the lift but should I wait for a new axle before I put anything on.
Old 01-13-2018, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Hey guys, this is more of an axle question then a Lift or tire question but they still go hand-in-hand. So right now I have a 97XJ on a front d30 and rear d35 and I'm running 3.55 gears on 30in tires. I just bought myself a new set of 33in tires and I'm about $70 away from getting my 4.5 RC lift ordered. So I have a few questions:
I know I'm goin to have to regear my jeep sooner than later to 4:10, but how important will that be to do right away. Also I do drive the freeway a decent amount with it so I know it will need to be done. But this leads me to my next question. Once I buy the lift kit here in a week or so, the next thing on my list are new axles. Quite frankly i just am looking for advice on what axles I should be searching for and if there are requirement I need to know in order to tell if an axle will be functionable under my jeep, I've been looking mostly at d44s. Another thing I'm wondering is if I were to just replace my rear to say a Dana 44 (hypothetically), would I then need to replace my front to a Dana 44 also or could I keep the D30 and just have matching gears. And lastly, is there any advice I should have on the order I should install these, obviously I can't put the tires on until I have the lift but should I wait for a new axle before I put anything on.
I would put a 97+ Chrysler 8.25 under the back since it's a bolt in swap, then regear both axles. Or if you can do some welding and such, an 8.8 isn't a bad swap either and it slightly stronger and can be found with 4.10 gears and disc brakes. I don't think you would need a dana 44 front axle on 33s. Personally I Wheel 35s on a dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25 both locked and 4.56 gears. In the end it's up to you what you decide is best, but I wouldn't spend the money on dana 44s especially since there is a lot more fabrication involved.
Old 01-13-2018, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
I would put a 97+ Chrysler 8.25 under the back since it's a bolt in swap, then regear both axles. Or if you can do some welding and such, an 8.8 isn't a bad swap either and it slightly stronger and can be found with 4.10 gears and disc brakes. I don't think you would need a dana 44 front axle on 33s. Personally I Wheel 35s on a dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25 both locked and 4.56 gears. In the end it's up to you what you decide is best, but I wouldn't spend the money on dana 44s especially since there is a lot more fabrication involved.
I was looking at a few for F8.8s, since I knew that was compatible and I feel like there are a ton of people in my area that I have that swap. In fact I also just checked my Facebook marketplace, as I usually do, and found a guy near me selling one. I took a screenshot and meant to post it but I can't figure out how to tag it in this post so I'll put it in a separate one. I just haven't looked too much into the process of doing a 8.8 swap but it's definitely something I've thought about I just figured it would be a little more complex since they're different companies. But he'll I don't know that's why im on here so I can find a starting place!
Old 01-13-2018, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
I was looking at a few for F8.8s, since I knew that was compatible and I feel like there are a ton of people in my area that I have that swap. In fact I also just checked my Facebook marketplace, as I usually do, and found a guy near me selling one. I took a screenshot and meant to post it but I can't figure out how to tag it in this post so I'll put it in a separate one. I just haven't looked too much into the process of doing a 8.8 swap but it's definitely something I've thought about I just figured it would be a little more complex since they're different companies. But he'll I don't know that's why im on here so I can find a starting place!
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Old 01-14-2018, 01:10 PM
  #28477  
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I think the Chyrsler 8.25 would be the most simple upgrade and handle what you have. I would buy the axle and have it ready to install then install it when you pull the leaf springs to do the lift, that way you set it all up new. Plus you need to know what axle you will be using so you get the correct U-bolts for the leaf springs.

On this same subject, I have been wondering if the 8.25 and the D35 use the same drive shaft? If I got the 8.25 would I need to change the drive shaft or the connector at the axle to make it work? For mine I don't plan to go more than 1.5 to 2 inches lift so will retain the stock driveshaft if possible.
Old 01-14-2018, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jedijeb
I think the Chyrsler 8.25 would be the most simple upgrade and handle what you have. I would buy the axle and have it ready to install then install it when you pull the leaf springs to do the lift, that way you set it all up new. Plus you need to know what axle you will be using so you get the correct U-bolts for the leaf springs.

On this same subject, I have been wondering if the 8.25 and the D35 use the same drive shaft? If I got the 8.25 would I need to change the drive shaft or the connector at the axle to make it work? For mine I don't plan to go more than 1.5 to 2 inches lift so will retain the stock driveshaft if possible.
The 8.25 snout is slightly longer, but if lifting the Jeep, the driveshaft length would probably be fine. They both have the same size ujoints and mount the same way.
Old 01-15-2018, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by XJIrish4x4
Not arguing for the sake of argument...however; I will disagree with your diagram about the lift specifications. Mine currently is sitting on a 3" DIY lift by that I mean pretty ****t put together but is running 32x11.5x15 tires. Now that part I'm not arguing because the original poster stated he wanted 17" tires on his Jeep. My disagreement is that you don't need everything dipicted on that diagram just because you have that size lift. Now maybe that does apply to the full on lift kits you buy from online or store instead of a DIY lift. Some of those items listed on a 3" lift are not on mine and mine is running fine without them. I will however; be replacing mine to a 4.5" kit soon so I expect to do a few things noted. (SYE, Extended Brake Lines) etc.
Doesn't matter if it's X# of inches achieved by an off the shelf kit or the same number of inches achieved by home-brew mods, the geometry of the suspension changes is exactly the same. Whether you get 3" by getting an off the shelf kit or 3" by throwing in a set of ford bronco springs, it is recommended that you follow that chart.

Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
Hey guys, this is more of an axle question then a Lift or tire question but they still go hand-in-hand. So right now I have a 97XJ on a front d30 and rear d35 and I'm running 3.55 gears on 30in tires. I just bought myself a new set of 33in tires and I'm about $70 away from getting my 4.5 RC lift ordered. So I have a few questions:
I know I'm goin to have to regear my jeep sooner than later to 4:10, but how important will that be to do right away. Also I do drive the freeway a decent amount with it so I know it will need to be done. But this leads me to my next question. Once I buy the lift kit here in a week or so, the next thing on my list are new axles. Quite frankly i just am looking for advice on what axles I should be searching for and if there are requirement I need to know in order to tell if an axle will be functionable under my jeep, I've been looking mostly at d44s. Another thing I'm wondering is if I were to just replace my rear to say a Dana 44 (hypothetically), would I then need to replace my front to a Dana 44 also or could I keep the D30 and just have matching gears. And lastly, is there any advice I should have on the order I should install these, obviously I can't put the tires on until I have the lift but should I wait for a new axle before I put anything on.
If you can, try and find a 97+ 4 cylinder with the 8.25. It will have 4.10s in it. Then you'll have F+R axles already geared to the 4.10 you're after.

As far as how critical it is to regear right away, it's not. I've been daily driving my 33s on the factory 3.55s for about 6 months and was running 32s for about a year before that. Acceleration definitely takes a hit, but everything is running smoothly.

Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
The 8.25 snout is slightly longer, but if lifting the Jeep, the driveshaft length would probably be fine. They both have the same size ujoints and mount the same way.
Yup. I can verify this. I have 3.5" of lift using the original d35 shaft with an 8.25 swap and it fits perfectly. Still has enough room to bottom out the rear without jamming the slip yoke into the transfer case output too.
Old 01-16-2018, 02:17 PM
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[QUOTE=Basslicks;3455736]Doesn't matter if it's X# of inches achieved by an off the shelf kit or the same number of inches achieved by home-brew mods, the geometry of the suspension changes is exactly the same. Whether you get 3" by getting an off the shelf kit or 3" by throwing in a set of ford bronco springs, it is recommended that you follow that chart.

Thanks for the advice! I mean I would follow the chart as well especially if is the right way to do it and your going to be off roading at all (Safety concerns).



If you can, try and find a 97+ 4 cylinder with the 8.25. It will have 4.10s in it. Then you'll have F+R axles already geared to the 4.10 you're after.

What vehicle would this also come from? I know the Cherokee in that year had the 8.25 but do like the Dakota or full size Dodge P/U have them at certain years? Perhaps not with the 4.10's. Strange they put the beefier suspension in a 4 cyl XJ vice the 4.0 V6.
Old 01-17-2018, 02:06 AM
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OK so I've been doing a little bit of research and tomorrow I'm going to get completely under the jeep and check it out but I'm almost thinking I already have a C8.25, did they come stock with a 1997 XJ sport? If so then that's an extra hundred ish dollars I don't have to spend on an axle. Ill get underneath her tomorrow and if I get some inspiration am I even wire brush some of it down and make it look a little pretty ( depends how cold it decides to be up here in Washington). But anyway yeah I have been comparing pictures of the different DIff covers and to me mine looks more like it C8.25 than a D35, but truthfully I can't tell and second guess my self whenever if down there. Also a side note: I can't figure out how to post pictures to this forum, I'm trying to have a picture w a few of my posts and o can't seem to get it to work out.
Old 01-17-2018, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by yvngpnw97xjer
OK so I've been doing a little bit of research and tomorrow I'm going to get completely under the jeep and check it out but I'm almost thinking I already have a C8.25, did they come stock with a 1997 XJ sport? If so then that's an extra hundred ish dollars I don't have to spend on an axle. Ill get underneath her tomorrow and if I get some inspiration am I even wire brush some of it down and make it look a little pretty ( depends how cold it decides to be up here in Washington). But anyway yeah I have been comparing pictures of the different DIff covers and to me mine looks more like it C8.25 than a D35, but truthfully I can't tell and second guess my self whenever if down there. Also a side note: I can't figure out how to post pictures to this forum, I'm trying to have a picture w a few of my posts and o can't seem to get it to work out.
The C8.25 should have a flat bottom that sticks out below the rounded diff cover. The D35 the bottom of the diff will be rounded just like the cover is. Also if you have anti lock brakes it will be a D35.
Old 01-17-2018, 10:32 AM
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:12 AM
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It's easier to differentiate the Dana 35 from the Chrysler 8.25 than the picture above implies. The C 8.25 looks flatter across the bottom due to the shape of the differential housing, not just the cover, as jedijeb mentioned.
Old 01-17-2018, 11:45 PM
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Alright starting here, I'm sure the answer to all my questions is on one of the 1899 pages of this thread but I'm not a search expert and have some pretty basic questions. Just picked up a 1993 XJ that appears to be in great shape. Looking to do a small lift and some bigger tires but need to learn a little more about pros and cons on the XJ platform. I had a 2000 XJ for about 10 years and had a shop install a budget boost add a leaf. I traded that in and got a 2007 JKU Rubicon and did two lifts myself on it with help from more experienced people. I sold that last summer, moved to Oregon and just picked up a new to me XJ today.

Anyway, no real interest in rock crawling it the way I did with the Rubicon at this time. Just want something to get out and explore some new trails in Oregon, have a little more ground clearance and a nice looking stance. Definitely not messing with gearing, axles, lockers or any of that stuff at this time. Maybe when I retire it to full time wheeler status but for now I need to be able to drive to work and around town etc and am in flight school so funds are tight.

Main question is deciding between a 2 inch budget boost with spacers up front and an add a leaf in the back or doing a full 3 inch kit with new coils and new leaf packs in the back. Since its a 25 year old vehicle I'm really leaning towards replacing the coils and the leaf packs entirely but have been reading some threads on some nightmare scenarios getting the bolts out of the rear shackles of the leaf springs. (also please excuse my screwed up terminology, I'm still learning all the leaf spring components etc).

I know I ultimately have to decide whats best for me but time is a major concern and throwing a coil spacer and AAL in SEEMS rather straightforward and cheap. It seems I could run 30 inch tires on that setup. OR I dig in and and go for replacing the coils and leafs. On my JK I never had to worry about snapping bolts yet just changing the shocks on my XJ proved to be a bolt drilling disaster. So I guess I'm asking how likely is it that I get into a steel caged death match trying to get the shackle bolts out?

Also, I don't see much on backspacing. Will I need wheel spacers if I plan on keeping the stock wheels on a 2inch with 30's or 3 inch with 31's? Pics below.
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