NewKindOfClown

On what budget? Coil spacers are fine for the front, but you should get new full leaf springs for the rear. You'll also need new shocks, and it wouldn't hurt to relocate your brake line brackets for a little extra line length

v8eater

Is there an alternative drive shaft beside the Cherokee front Slip yoke that can be used for a rear SYE? Cant find a front drive shaft in the Junkyard. Was wondering if another truck used one similiar.

corcan1

Pretty sure this is the correct thread to ask this question. Sorry if it's not.

I have a chance to pickup 4 rims with new tires for $200. They are off a 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe. I know they are the same bolt pattern as my 1997 cherokee but the hub center bore is smaller, 67.1mm and my jeep's is 71.5mm.

What can be done to make these fit?

4WD4EVER

Bore the hole?

EZEARL

Don't forget about the offset.

35mm(1.38")-46mm(1.81")

corcan1

These are the specs of the hyundai rim

HYUNDAI SANTA FE 2001-08 Metric: 5 X 114.3
Standard: 5 X 4.5 12 X 1.5 67.1

NewKindOfClown

The only wheel from an '06 Sante Fe that will work on an XJ is the 16x6 version, due to backspacing (offset) differences. The others will sit too far inside the wheel well and will rub when turning. On the rear, the tires may even touch the leaf springs if you used one of the other wheel sizes.

This doesn't take into account the bore diameter, as determining that is a simple matter of subtraction.

corcan1

You are right. Too bad, it was a good deal.

I'd really like to buy new rims and 16 or 17" rims is what i'd like.
Any suggestions?

4WD4EVER

I would never recommend using a file or any other tool that is not appropriate for boring a hole.

NewKindOfClown

SummitRacing.com

Basic wheels are around $50ea, depending on sales and inventory

Stabsthedrama

LCA rubbing on stock 15x7's.

I have the stock XJ wheels (painted black with no caps), picture:

https://i.imgur.com/xW16Fha.jpg

And I have a ~3" lift all around.

When checking how much more clearance I have with the 235 75r15's I have, I noticed that the LCA is closer to being rubbed on the driver's side than the passenger side. We're talking maybe ~1.25 inches on the passenger side, and about .75 inches on the driver side.

Does this indicate enough of a reason to get an adjustable track bar?

I'm definitely not opposed to the idea, since I know they're important - but will it center the axle, evening out the space I have on either side?

Without doing any exact measurements for clearance, it seems like I'd be able to fit 31x10.5x15's if I made the clearance equal on both sides and split the difference. It would be damn close if not, and if it only rubs at full lock I really wouldn't care, but as it is now it seems like it would rub pretty good on the driver's side.

If not, I'll just get 30x9.5x15s, and maybe adjustable track bar.

SeriousOffroad

Yes an adjustable track bar will allow you to properly center the axle.

Velcro

Pretty sure you can use a ZJ grand cherokee front driveshaft. XJ/ZJ driveshafts will all be different lengths depending on the drivetrain combo. Inline 6/autos, I believe, have the longest and are the most used as the rear. Depending on your junkyard though, a stronger custom one might not be unreasonably more, especially if you have to rebuild, balance the used one.

I run Tatton's driveshaft, you can get them for $175 on ebay (cjtatton) vs. the $75 my junkyard wanted for a pretty beat up one. Pretty cheap insurance IMO.

Jacob Cianciolo

Wanting to go from R15 33"s X 12.5" to same rim ideally and same tire width; but 35"s, drive a 98 jeep Cherokee, think I need to change gear ratio? if so what does someone who dose highway 25%

What 35"s you guys recommend that aren't awful in the snow, decent on tread life (not crazy concerned lol) , and are good for someone who goes to primarily dirt/mud trails couple times a month? Heard Goodyear Duratracs are not bad?

currently running wranglers..

SeriousOffroad

4.88's if you have an auto, 4.56 if you have a manual.

I'm a big fan of Mickey Thompson MTZ's.