Hey gang,

Perhaps the flu I'm suffering from has got my Google Foo skills hamstrung, but I can't find any info on something that I feel confident in.

This coming weekend (hopefully) my 98 will be going from a 2" lift and 235/75's to a 4.5" lift and 31" Firestone Destination AT's. The lift will have adjustable upper and lower arms, extended swaybar links, and adjustable track bar. I also have a dropped pitman arm going on as well. I'm a little nervous about breaking open the T-case "on vehicle" to install the new SYE, but we'll see how that goes...

Anyway, I've seen a number of references in the past like "Take it to a shop that knows how to align lifted Jeeps", or "you'll have to tell them how to align it." These statements are made because some of the stock specs do not work well for lifted Jeeps with altered suspension geometry.

What I can't find is any specific specs on how it should be aligned after any given lift height. If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. I'm scared of developing death wobble, and I can't ever seem to get a Jeep that doesn't suffer from feathering of the front tire tread. Even my 02" TJ feathered badly right off the dealer lot, and I was never able to get it fixed. I;d go through tires in 18K to 20K miles of highway driving.

I just want to do whatever I need to do to have the XJ drive straight and true and have the tires wear evenly for a change.

Thanks for any help.

 

I can't speak to the lift you're getting and the extras you have. However, my lift has alignment specs in the instructions. I would say check the instructions for your lift, if not try getting ahold of the manufacturer. Or, as stated, just go to a shop that knows their stuff

 

Thanks for the info. Part of why I'm trying to find specific specs is because a couple years ago, I paid for a "lifetime alignment" through Firestone. They will perform an alignment for free, up to 6 times a year, for as long as a I own the Jeep. I'd just like to be bale to leverage that if possible. Especially since I have Firestone tires, and if they wear funny, I want it on record that I had then perform the alignments.

 

They may not mess with aftermarket adjustable components like your control arms and trackbar, however they will be able to adjust your toe and tell you what your camber and caster is at.
I refer to stock specifications for toe and camber, caster is another story. I have my jeep at the stock 7 degrees preferred, however you always want to take pinion angle into account. My jeep at 5" of lift on 35s really liked 5.5 degrees for pinion angle and steering returning to center. I have it at 7 now but the steering still returns to center and the pinion angle is still pretty good(hp axle). I would set your caster to the stock 7 degrees then adjust from there. By the way I think stock is 1/8th toe in and -.25 camber. Camber is not adjustable without offset ball joints so you shouldn't have to worry about making that adjustment.
Hope this helps
-adam

 

My alignment shop didn't mess with my track bar or control arms. Take your time when you're adjusting the new ones to the lengths in the instructions. Also, you might want to bite off that project 1 piece at a time. Your setup is similar to what mine is growing into. What I did was the lift first (left stock tires on till it was aligned), the SYE, then the pitman arm (haven't done that yet). I hear pulling pitman arms is a bear. Also, I think that's a lot to do in one shot if you're a DIY mechanic. Things always take longer than planned. I wanted mine done in a day... Took every bit of spare time I had for 2 weeks straight just to do the lift!

 

Pulling pitman arms is hard if your in the rust belt. If your in the south a few squirts of pb blaster and a puller it should come off with ease. Mine did at least when I swapped to a Durango box.
What he said about taking more time^^^ it almost always takes more time than planned. Make sure you have plenty of time and don't rush things. Especially with that hack n tap. Measure twice cut once

 

Not too hard to do your own alignment. GoJeep has a real nice online writeup that I've had really good success with. GoJeep How to Alignment

 

@t long
My skills are somewhat better than typical DIY level. I personally swapped the longblock in my XJ and did the 2" lift, bumper and winch install, rear locker install, and all other work myself. In my younger years I restored a couple of 72 Chevy pickups, and worked as a small engine mechanic for several years.
But yes, things sometimes take longer than you expect. I did the 2" lift in about 5 hours, having never done one on an XJ before. I'm anticipating 8 hours for the 4.5" one, as I think I'll have an easier time of it since I slathered all the bolts with anti-seize when I did the first lift
I'm taking Monday and Tuesday off so that I'll have a four day weekend. In that time I'll be doing the lift, SYE, bigger tires and alignment, installation of JCR sliders, and maybe replacing the carpet (if UPS gets it here today). My hope is that it's all done in 3 days and I can take the fourth day for road testing and just some downtime.

@884x4
Thanks for the alignment tips. I'm doing a full SYE, not a hack-n-tap. I'll just be doing it by cracking open the t-case while the front half is still bolted to the tranmission. I do have a pitman arm puller as well, so hopefully a don't crack a knuckle when it comes to that.

 

Idk where I got hack n tap then..lol
All that stuff shouldn't give you problems, hell one time I had to pop off my pitman arm with a wimpy little pickle fork...it wasn't fun but I got it done lol

 

Sounds like you're got it under control then. If you're already replaced your rear shock bolts, that's an easy 4 hours saved there. haha Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

As for the original question, my alignment shop told me I was towed in by 1.5 inches. lol My tires would screech when driving straight over a painted line.

 

I just did RC 3" lifts on two of my XJ's, and changed shocks on the third. It's pretty easy. I did the add-a-leafs as well, so it took a little longer. And I made my own X-fer case drops using 1x3 rect. tube and 10mm X 50mm flange head bolts. (6" tube sections w/ 1/2" holes 4.5" apart, centered on the 6" tube).

I had seized shock bolts on all three Jeeps, and seized shackle bolts on two of them. I sprayed them w/ WD40 and let them sit an hour or so, then went after them. I broke no bolts. What I did is this: I broke them loose using a 1/2" breaker bar and long 1/2" extension. When it broke loose and then stopped...I tightened it back up again. Then loosen till it stops...then tighten. Back and forth, back and forth...like you're doin' the Chinaman. You git a little more each time, and eventually it will go all the way around. Then you're home free.

 

The alignment on mine was done at the Jeep 4wd shop that did my lift to 4 1/2"'s. Its an older guy that owns the shop 40 + yrs. there and no machine. They replaced everything new in the front end of mine with aftermarket HD items.

He did it all with nothing more than a tape measure and a good eye, I was wary when I picked it up figured it would need to go for one. But he told me not to go to a shop and let them screw it up after the time he had put into it.

Must admit it is great so far!

 

I have aligned 100's of vehicles, lifted and not, and I can tell you toe setting is most important to tire wear and your toe can be too far positive or negative and it wont nec pull as long as it is even side to side. I would HIGHLY suggest taking it for a REAL alignment on an up-to-date machine. if shops give you a hassle for it being lifted and blah blah blah just say you want a toe set, a suspension lift wont effect that. itd take me 20 min from start to finish to get a toe-in, not "hours of work". id be extremely leery of this guy. he may have exp, but these machines can tell degress on a veh's spec to a tenth of a degree in real time, much more accurate than a tape measure.

 

Ditto. Screeched over everything. Learn to adjust and align it yourself. If you were able to install all of that, you will be able to figure out the caster n toe. Easy. Watch some vids.

Tools I use: Tram stick(to set the control arms length), tape measure, string, 4 jack stands, square of plywood under front wheels.

Then once you get it as close as possible, considering you have nice tires. Take it in. Find a reputable experienced place. Call and ask of they are comfortable and will back up their work.

I do all my own alignments on all my cars, but also have access to a high tech machine. (Brother is a "professional" mechanic). I have yet to pay for an alignment.

 

FYI. Alignment 'printouts' are free. Tell them you do not want any adjustments made.