I picked up a 93 xj a couple weeks ago. It has a 4.5" procomp lift with 33x12.50 tires. I found a 2" lift from rough country that basically consists of coil spring spacers and lift shackles. Would it hurt anything to add this on top my my lift, and possibly clear 35's? I'm wondering about the pitman arm, upper and lower control arms, and most importantly driveshafts. And would a transfer case drop get me out of having to swap driveshafts?

 

if ur running short arms, then i wouldnt put spacers in, if you do the axle will pull itself towards the rear messin with all sorts of stuff. and a T-case drop wont help u at all, ur guna need a SYE kit and DS

 

I just posted this same thing on another thread but its not a good idea unless you at least have the right control arms. I put a 2" spacer on my old xj with a 4.5 and the track bar ends kept braking. I only had the fixed LCAs and stock uppers. I'm assuming the track bar issues were because of horrible geometry from the axle not being pushed forward.

 

Hmmm ok. Guess ill stick with the 33's then. No way I'm gonna pay more for a lift than I've got in the whole thing. Guess it never pays to try to take the cheap way out

 

Are you afraid to hack your fenders? Do 35's with the 4.5" and join the club. Hell, I wanna drop it down to 3".

 

yea i have a 4.5" RC lift and i put 2" spacers up front bout 4 mouths ago and i just took them it back out 2 day ago rides and look a lot better...4.5" lift is just perfect for a xj...IMO

 

Well its got extended front fenders on it already. But when I turn the tires all the way one way, there's only about an inch between then and the metal. I know 35's will scrub bad. And the rear is gonna take some serious sawzall work to clear em and still be able to flex like I want it to.

 

Dont take a sawzall to the rear fenders. Unless you feel like welding the inner fender back together.

You dont just hack the rears like the fronts. You have to cut vertically in between the pinch welds then hammer the tabs in. Theres a million write ups about doin it. Just an fyi.

 

yea, theres limited trimming you can do in the rear. but dont let that stop you from steppin it up in the tire size world. bump stops are where its at. progressive bump stops will help to create a see-saw effect and help to push the down traveling tire farther down and create less body roll. the idea is that less lift and good amounts of droop will help maintaion a low cog... that said. the 4.5" and 33x12.50's you currently have are, IMHO, a pretty ideal combo unless you are planning on doing some more aggressive muddin' or crawlin' where 35's might be more necessary...

edit- here, let this explain better than i can...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/low...ks-tips-32980/

 

I have a 6" lift and clear 35's good. I did rub on the front when I went on the articulation ramp but if I take off my fender flares I wouldnt rub. I do need a small shakle lift because the back is lower than the the front. oh I scored 880 on the ramp.

 

My old jeep had 36's on a 4.5 R.E. short arm lift......it rubbed but then I trimmed it and, it still rubbed but not as bad......it was worth it for a trail rig

 

I will definitely be checking them out thanks.

 

Ok so not to be outdone. I'm goin this weekend to do some flexin and see what size bump stops I need. Should have some 35's within a couple weeks. Maybe bigger tires will make my speedo/odometer closer to being correct. 33's with 4.10 gears has it way off

 

Speedo shouldn't be too far off.
I'm right around 4" on 35's. Works great, I think its a great setup. I have plenty of uptravel, and a ton down.
I thought about going down to 3 but I think its probably not worth the break over angle loss for the stability.

 

pretty much what everybody else said. i have a rough country 4.5 inch lift with 33s. i put 2 inch blocks and 2 inch coils spacers and i also trac bar problems. and my control arms arent adjustable so the rear was pushed back and nothing sat correctly. and not to mention coil spacers ride like crap. i took them out after a day of driving. you could probably get away with it pretty good if you have adjustable control arms , sye, and long adjustable track bar