Snajo

I've been searching all over for someone with experience running an active crossover type audio system in an XJ. If anyone has a link to a good write-up I'd be fine with that, but I have a couple questions that someone might be able to answer.

Several years ago in my previous XJ I replaced the stock speakers, head unit, and added an sub and amp. I learned a lot, but all in all it sounded pretty terrible.

For this build I'd like some advice on whether I'll have clearer full sound from running active crossover and forgoing rear fill or keeping the four speaker setup using passive crossovers. My goal is sound that feels like it surrounds me and isn't blasting from any clearly defined direction. I fear that by dropping the rear speakers I'll lose that "surround" feel.

In both cases I would be using components in the front and a single 10" sub in one of DoubleTapXJ's boxes. For an AMP I'm looking at a massive audio nano block 5-channel (Nx5) and for the head unit a deh-80prs. Components are TBD as is the Sub.

I don't mind doing research. Another question regards matching a sub to the DoubleTapXJ box, but isn't my focus right now.

Thanks!

doped304

Oh boy what a slippery slope! Well if you run the 80prs I would run a 2 way front with a sub. The 80prs has time alignment that will dial in your stage for you. The good thing about active is you can buy individual speakers and let the head unit decide what frequencies they will play. Go to parts express.com and look at their speakers. I don't know your budget but a good bang fo your buck is the Dayton line. The rs180 for mid with a good tweeter that can play 2.5 Hz and up would be a good setup.
As far as rear speakers the so called experts will vote against them. They will say when you go to a concert are their speakers behind you? Go to DIYa.com and read the 300 page,seriously, long thread and see what you are up against with the 80prs.
I have a 80 prs running passive with 2 sets in components and its good for what it is. My jeep is to much of a rattle trap with loud tires to get and sound quality out of.
Look into a jbl ms8 as an alternative. I have one in my truck and its pretty good except it took me over 9 months to I al it in.
I'm not sure what sub enclosure your talking about but if t one f those that goes in the cubbyhole I would avoid it not enough airspace. As far as a sub go no mainstream. If you want loud get something like digital design or sundown. Sq I am a fan of image dynamics subs. Let me know if you have any questions, I just went down the road myself.

Snajo

It's a wooden cubbyhole enclosure, so there won't be much volume. Reviews of them are pretty solid, so I'm optomistic. I have been reading the huge deh-80prs thread. It goes through 700 or so posts before people actually receive their units. Anyway, I'm going to give active a shot. If I don't like the results I can always switch to passive or even more the headset to my GTO and put something basic in the XJ.

Thanks!

Snajo

I got most everything ordered!

Limitations: single amp for entire system, mounting depth of front speakers, and small enclosure sub box. Goals: sound quality and road noise reduction.

Pioneer DEH80-PRS Receiver
Polk PA D5000.5 5 Channel Amp
Polk Dxi6500 6.5" Components (Front Only)
Image Dynamics ID10D2 10" Sub (thanks for the recommendation)
72 Sq feet of Stinger Roadkill (might buy another box)
Stinger 4ohm Amp Power Kit (4000 Series)
Stinger 6 channel interconnects
Monster 12 gauge sub speaker wire
16 gauge ofc copper speaker wire for the rest

I also ordered a box of rubber grommets, replacement door panel fasteners, assorted heat shrink tubing, alluminum tape, a soldiering kit, heat gun, usb extension cables, a roller, and headset install kit.

I expect I'll have to pick up some random small hardware items, like terminal cups for the sub and terminals for 12 and 16 gauge wire.

Does anyone have any suggestions for connecting speaker wires to the amp and sub box? I'd rather not have loose wire ends if I can avoid it. I would be happy just tinning the ends so they don't fray, but if there is a more professional solution I'm all ears. I don't plan on disconnecting them often, but it's inevitable from time to time.

As for setup, it will be wired active. I understand that the resistance of each tweeter and mid remains 4ohm even when separated and the sub will be 1ohm since I'm running the two coils in parrallel. I am concerned about the resistance of the mids and tweeters and I'm not sure how to verify it without using a frequency synthesiser and an o-scope or some specialized tools.

For sound quality are there better mounting locations than the doors for the front components? I'll consider anything reasonable, but once I cut holes of the tweeters, they're pretty much staying there.

Thanks again for any insight.

XJmike0122

Damn I'm happy with my stock setup and XM radio. Guess I'm just not an audiophile.

Snajo

I'm not an audiophile, but I am ready for an upgrade from the cassette player. The year 2000!? Who actually used cassettes even then?

I don't like to do projects like this unless I have a chance at getting it done right.

If I felt confident in replacing the suspension myself I'd do that too. It's a bit overwhelming without having experience with it.

XJmike0122

Seems like a lot more than a head unit upgrade to me. All that talk sounds like Greek to me compared to installing a lift.

Snajo

I replaced the u-bolts on the drive shaft of an 84 GMC pickup. I tried to replace the shocks, but couldn't get the seized bolts out.

That's my experience with suspension.

I did air traffic control equipment maintenance for the Air Force, but I honestly don't know much beyond basics.

My problem with doing a lift is that I don't know all the parts I'll need. With the sound system I have a decent idea of the main parts and the hardware that goes with it. I haven't done what I'm doing before, but I've done a variation of everything I'm planning. That covers the hardware. Getting it dialed in is another story.

I want to go with a 2" OME lift from DPG offroad. I'm keeping stock wheels and tires, since I have relatively new (good) tires. I know I need shocks, springs, and new leafs and I'm pretty sure I could replace all of these. What I don't know much about are the other parts that would be needed... steering box brace? control arm relocation? U-bolt hanger things? bushing types? transfer case drop (probably a good idea)... and does this put additional strain on the stock steering system? New brake lines? Are there things I should look at while I'm in there? etc...

XJmike0122

Dirk at DPG knows his stuff. Call him he will do you right. I got my lift from him. With a 2" OME lift there is not much more you will need. Maybe a transfer case drop at most. That lift is a great base to build off of also.