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Old May 20, 2016 | 03:15 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
wait what? Full on buggy as in 4400 class? And your budget was $5k or $50k?
I'm building a buggy out of an XJ body, but to the specs OF the ultra4 buggies. Will it compete at KOH, no. Will it be to the same spec so I never fail any tech inspection at any race I do enter, yes. Shop smart, know people, and teach yourself things haha. $5k, as it five thousand. I'll go over for sure, but it's going to be less than $10k by a long shot.
-$780 for a PRISTINE XJ (already made back my money by selling off everything I didn't need).
-$520 for a '89 Ford front d60 and 10.25 (selling the 10.25 and I'll be in the d60 for ~$280)
-$140 for a 14b (selling the OEM gov lock and will get back that money)
-RuffStuff vendor account, check.
-Learn to gear, check.
-Have friends that sell coil overs all the time for cheap, and are AWESOME fabricators/welders, check.

Pretty much every purchase I make, I make back the upfront cost buy selling something off whatever o bought that I don't need. Even if I didn't know anyone to weld I would have taught myself as well.

Last edited by 2000CHERO; May 20, 2016 at 03:17 PM.
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Old May 20, 2016 | 03:52 PM
  #62  
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 2000CHERO
I'm building a buggy out of an XJ body, but to the specs OF the ultra4 buggies. Will it compete at KOH, no. Will it be to the same spec so I never fail any tech inspection at any race I do enter, yes. Shop smart, know people, and teach yourself things haha. $5k, as it five thousand. I'll go over for sure, but it's going to be less than $10k by a long shot.
-$780 for a PRISTINE XJ (already made back my money by selling off everything I didn't need).
-$520 for a '89 Ford front d60 and 10.25 (selling the 10.25 and I'll be in the d60 for ~$280)
-$140 for a 14b (selling the OEM gov lock and will get back that money)
-RuffStuff vendor account, check.
-Learn to gear, check.
-Have friends that sell coil overs all the time for cheap, and are AWESOME fabricators/welders, check.

Pretty much every purchase I make, I make back the upfront cost buy selling something off whatever o bought that I don't need. Even if I didn't know anyone to weld I would have taught myself as well.

so 44 or 45 class? I'm sure it can be done on a budget but that is some true diligence to have it tech ready at all times. Sounds like a fun project. I don't think I could even put together the axle rebuilds, 2" tubing, ruffstuff links, heims, brackets, seats, harnesses, siren, racing lights, and safety equipment for $5,000. Post your progress man! I'm doing the same thing but abandoned the idea of adhering to rules, mine will never be a racer lol
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Old May 20, 2016 | 04:14 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
so 44 or 45 class? I'm sure it can be done on a budget but that is some true diligence to have it tech ready at all times. Sounds like a fun project. I don't think I could even put together the axle rebuilds, 2" tubing, ruffstuff links, heims, brackets, seats, harnesses, siren, racing lights, and safety equipment for $5,000. Post your progress man! I'm doing the same thing but abandoned the idea of adhering to rules, mine will never be a racer lol
Will do! Build coming soon! I have a tendency to make a build log after it's all over haha.

To the OP, this Chuggy (Cherokee-buggy) will be powered by none other than the OEM '98 4.0, rebuilt top end, and new everything. Only thing I'm adding is bored tb and cowl intake. It well drive the OEM aw4/231 as well. I have no doubt that to start it'll be all the power I need. Later on, yeah maybe a turbo project or stroker. But who knows.
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Old May 20, 2016 | 04:25 PM
  #64  
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
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Originally Posted by 2000CHERO

To the OP, this Chuggy (Cherokee-buggy) will be powered by none other than the OEM '98 4.0, rebuilt top end, and new everything. Only thing I'm adding is bored tb and cowl intake. It well drive the OEM aw4/231 as well.

ah that's how you're keeping cost down stock class doesn't allow coilovers so I know you're not going EMC. And factory drivetrain will never be competitive with 44/45... you'll want a different chassis by the time you're ready for an LS! hmmm. I'm stoked to see the build man, definitely interested in figuring out what you've got cooking up
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Old May 20, 2016 | 04:44 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
ah that's how you're keeping cost down stock class doesn't allow coilovers so I know you're not going EMC. And factory drivetrain will never be competitive with 44/45... you'll want a different chassis by the time you're ready for an LS! hmmm. I'm stoked to see the build man, definitely interested in figuring out what you've got cooking up
Yup, when I blow it up I'll figure out what to do. I'm not going to compete in anything 44/45 as you're right I'll be under powered, but built to they're specs strength wise and everything else. I'm thinking more like crawling, maybe some small races at Line Mountain to start, go from there.

To be honest my friend that's going to do my welding is doing a tube chassis buggy, and they get boring after a while; they're all the same. He's as excited to start my build as me because it'll be a different build for sure. Not too many XJ's racing like this, mostly TJ's, and small bodied ones.
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Old May 20, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 2000CHERO
I also agree with this. Rebuild the top end, add a better header, exhaust, whatever, but the 4.0 is going to be more than capable of anything you can throw at it to start.
That's why I'm not doing anything to the motor until the rest of the jeep is complete.
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Old May 20, 2016 | 04:56 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 2000CHERO
It sounds like from this you need to decide if you want a street-able rig that you can wheel occasionally, or a trailered buggy/jeep you don't rely on to get you to work. There's always that fine line between a built dd jeep and a trailered jeep; how far is too far haha. I became satisfied with the build of my dd the second I realized how cheap a buggy can be built. My dd is built with a 8.8 and a hp30, and will handle everything I throw at it; and I'm not nice with my stuff, considering how nice it is. But at the end of the day I wanted to be able to drive the jeep, can't do that of its all busted from wheeling, thus, buggy time.
I definitely need it to be streetable. This project was never supposed to be purely off-road, although I see myself taking it out often and having some fun, but not going to do anything too hardcore. I'm sure at some point in the near future I'll want to build something that is never meant to hit the road, but I'll focus on this build for now, and like I said possibly one for my wife so we can take them out together.
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Old May 20, 2016 | 05:04 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Tim Emery
I definitely need it to be streetable. This project was never supposed to be purely off-road, although I see myself taking it out often and having some fun, but not going to do anything too hardcore. I'm sure at some point in the near future I'll want to build something that is never meant to hit the road, but I'll focus on this build for now, and like I said possibly one for my wife so we can take them out together.
Then my personal opinion is you're not going to do any better than a built 30 and 8.25, or even a 8.8 (I'm partial to the 8.8). I wouldn't even consider the 44/9 combo of your max tire is a 35. If you were dead set on 37's id say yeah, but for a 33/35 OEM axles are more than capable. I can wheel everywhere on my 33's, and more, than my friend can on 35's, and my other forens can out wheel me with a stock jeep on 31's. It all comes down to driver. I think you're on the right track; 4.5-5.5 with 33/35 would be perfect for a dual purpose rig, and be able to do 95% of the trails out there.
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Old May 20, 2016 | 08:25 PM
  #69  
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Nice. Thanks for the input. That seems to be the direction I'm going. I've had a few people tell me the 8.25 will be strong enough for what I need but I was hesitant. If I can get away with not having to replace them that's the route I'll go.
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