Um, I did time it. And I timed the gas flow not at the beginning of the reaction, but after it had been running and I plugged it into the tube to measure it. Then I did it several times each test and averaged it.

I think that should do for an approximation. I don't need to know exactly how much gas is coming out after all. I was just trying to verify that enough should be coming out before I tried it in the engine.

 

Just trying to help. If you're satisfied with your results, that's what counts anyways. Those meters are super cheap btw.

 

Those meters are a great idea, thanks. I was getting defensive with all these other people that keep trying to sell me stuff here. lame, sry

I think I have enough output for now. But, if find myself having to test the output often I'll definitely get one of those.

 

I added some things to the booster.

1. A drain plug, just in case.



2. A visual level meter. I couldn't get used to the idea of not being able to see the water level (or color). I marked it at 3 cups and 3 1/2 since it holds a quart.


And, here is what, I think, is going to make all the difference and it was only 12 bucks:



From what I can gather on the subject on the ol' interwebs is that engine intakes do not like water vapor very much and these hho boosters tend to put off water vapor with the other gasses.

The creator of this Hotsabi booster says he used a moisture trap from his air compressor. It is designed to filter out dust and moisture from a compressor line.

It seems to me that many of the people that have tried HHO and failed, didn't use one of these.

I'll keep y'all posted. I plan on installing it today/tomorrow.

 

Oh man this is sweet. I was playing around with a mystery connector...


And, after I replaced the shoddy hack job somebody had run to the radio with an actual connector, I tested each "port" on this thing to see what they did, if anything.

The one the radio is hooked to must go to the battery because it's on all the time. The middle black wires seem to be a ground. AND, the best part is the the far left "port" is only hot when the engine is running! Not, when just listening to the radio or filling a flat or whatever with the power on.

That makes this whole thing a helluva lot easier for me. For curiosity's sake I checked that plug under the hood that mechanics plug into to diagnose problems.

It has a port that's only hot when the engine is running too! Easy peasy.

Why was anyone telling me to go anywhere but here? idk

Anyway, now I have options that aren't vital engine wires, even with ports I can just plug into. I am thinking I want a cool blue led on/off switch in the cab so I think I'll go with the port under the dash and run my own wire out.

Now, can anyone tell me the best place to run a wire out through the firewall?

Thanks for all your help so far. You guys are helping make this all possible!

 

Tons of spots on the drivers side firewall to run wires...

 

This is very....different. Interested in seeing the results of this

 

KABOOM!!!

Just kidding, but it was something like that.

I had to pull an all-nighter to get this installed Saturday night. But, right around dawn I had it installed (with wiring I actually understand now) and turned it on.

It was running as it should so I hopped in and went for a spin around the block. The engine seemed to have a new sound and it sounded great, kind of like instead of patter patter patter, it was thrum thrum thrum, like a newer engine or something.

I suppose it could have been a mild hallucination due to sleep deprivation so I'll have to keep testing.

Anyway, by the time I got around the block the sound had gone back to normal, so I popped the hood and discovered that the thing had boiled over and I had fluid all in the lines. Thank goodness that air compressor filter was in the line or it might have filled my air filter compartment. As it was, it all got trapped in the filter and I was able to let it out and drain the hoses fairly easily.


I'm guessing that using tap water for the bubbler was bad idea. It could have boiled, causing low pressure in the tubes and sucking up some water from the cell. I'll have to add a heat shield to the bubbler/steam trap and only use distilled water in the future.

Or, it just may have boiled over because my solution was too strong? It occurred to me that maybe it's getting more juice now that it's hooked up well, as opposed to before when I had it on jumper cables for those initial tests. Maybe the Hotsabi creator was right about the mixture after all.

At any rate, it seems like I fried it somewhere. Next weekend I'll track down what got fried, maybe just a fuse, and see about repairing and trying again.

I'll keep y'all posted.

 

That seems prety cool. I like how you modified to see the level, and that you are doing some solid testing. The fact that your engine sounded different (before the boil over) seems promising. I would suggest ensuring any cap is like the radiator, as in doesn't let air in, so that it doesn't allow it to boil.

I have looked into these set-ups before. and what is making it boil over? is it the heat, or the positive and negative metal gassing the water? Next time, I'd suggest letting it run for a little bit with it parked and the hood propped open. Maybe that way will give you a little differant perspective as it is working.

Looks good, and looking forward to updates.

 

It turned out the plastic relay plug thing melted and the wires just got separated. I just got rid of that and crimped on my own connectors, plugged it back in and it worked again.

I filled it back up with just distilled water and I'm still getting a lot of bubbling. My solution must have been way too strong. Putting distilled water in the bubbler seems to have helped and it looks like it was just the tap water in there that was the problem

I sure hope air can't get in as it's designed for gas to not escape! I would have preferred a better fitting than these diy "pop out" fittings people are using for these though. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.

Anyway, it's putting out gas now and not boiling over, I put in a button for it in the dash so it can be switched off, and it's running.

This time at first it started making the engine seem to miss and sputter a little bit. Then it got that jet engine sound again. My wife's been driving it around town with it on without any problems today. So far so good.

I do want to redesign the steam trap/bubbler setup though. Also, the water level tube... those vinyl tubes get all soft around heat. I don't trust it.

Anyone know what kind of tubing, clear-ish hopefully, I could readily get for this?

I'll post some pics of it installed when I can.

 

Btw, I found my next project already if this continues to work. I read that I can reroute my air intake and use a conical filter. (Too bad I just got a high flow square one.) But, I was thinking how fun it would be to run the air intake straight up, cut a hole in the hood there and put a scoop over the air filter poking out. Then it would look like some kind of muscle Jeep AND the whole point would really be to free up all that space in that air box thing to put my new HHO cells in!

 

Excuse my ignorance but what in the hell is a hydroxy booster?

 

... Last poster, if you read through the post, you will find out what it is. Or you can do a search on HHO gas type stuff. Just read, or here, this may help.

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=hydoxy+booster (sorry, but these are pretty funny and a have to do it kind of way.) but seriously, read lucknuts post next, he explains it in an easy to understand manner.

To OP- Tu Chet. Guess I didn't think of that. lol. Nice to see you got it working. If you decide to move the filter out, if you partition the section of the ending compatment that had the stock airbox, that could be a nice cool place to keep it. When it comes to other plastic matierial, I am not sure what could be used that would definatley work for that.

Again, keep us posted. I am really interested in seeing how this goes, and hearing about any changes in MPGs and running quality, ect. This is a very interesting thread, finally clarifying what has come around and gone around all over the internet. Keep Us Posted!!!

 

Ha, it's just some nutty thing I found online. They hydroxy gas (hydrogen and oxygen supposedly) is supposed to help the engine burn the gasoline more completely.

So, the idea is basically to help the horribly wasteful internal combustion engine to work more efficiently.

Some people seem to do it to save gas, which is how I came across it. But, with any modern car without an old carburetor will have to use an EFIE chip (mod chip) to trick the vehicle's computer into not compensating for the extra oxygen passing the sensor by adding more fuel.

But, the gas is also supposed to increase engine life and clean out deposits and generally help it run better too. So, that's what sold me on the idea of at least trying it.

 

Here's an update. But, I don't have any pics yet. Not much to see anyway. It just sits in the engine compartment by the evap can.

1. I seem to have fixed the overflowing problem by reducing the solution strength. It bubbles a lot still but I'll need to hook up that gas meter at some point to check it. It looks like it's bubbling a little less than my 10ml/sec tests.

2. The electrical had come loose under the dash (failed crimp) and that was causing some confusion. Got that fixed. But...

3. Noticed that the HHO unit powers off when I turn the headlights on! Doh. I guess that place I found to plug in isn't so perfect after all. I still have no idea what that plug used to be (maybe for a trailer?). And, what in the world would anyone want to go "off" in a trailer when the headlights go "on"?

I'd appreciate any input from any electrical geniuses out there.