'88 XJ w/ 4" lift needs new front shaft
#1
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Model: Cherokee
'88 XJ w/ 4" lift needs new front shaft
First off, I am real new to all things Jeep and lifted vehicles. This new-to-us XJ has a bad front shaft, and apparently the older XJ front driveshaft has an expensive joint in it...
The shop owner called to make sure I wanted to drop $400 on a new shaft before he had it made. I've heard rumors that some years can use shafts from certain Grand Cherokee models but I don't know any details, so I thought I would ask the collective wisdom here if there are any suggestions?
TIA!
The shop owner called to make sure I wanted to drop $400 on a new shaft before he had it made. I've heard rumors that some years can use shafts from certain Grand Cherokee models but I don't know any details, so I thought I would ask the collective wisdom here if there are any suggestions?
TIA!
#2
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
What's bad about the driveshaft?
The u-joints are replaceable and making a new driveshaft shouldn't be needed. Pick one up at the junkyard and replace the u-joints your self you will save a lot of money. I'm running a stock front driveshaft on 6.5" lift.
The u-joints are replaceable and making a new driveshaft shouldn't be needed. Pick one up at the junkyard and replace the u-joints your self you will save a lot of money. I'm running a stock front driveshaft on 6.5" lift.
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After talking to my diff mechanic, it is the cardon (sp?) joint that was bad. That's the large joint to the right side of the pic, with two U-joints and a carrier. That carrier piece has a joint in the center, and that is what was trashed.
Last edited by kerensky; 08-10-2017 at 02:08 PM.
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Aye, there's a good driveline fab place here in OKC. They'd already quoted $400 to build a new one. Yesterday I found a shaft from a '96 XJ at a local junkyard. Figured for $40 it was worth the gamble - it looks identical to the original. The differential shop looked it over good and installed it, seems to be working just fine according to them. I looked up front shafts on rockauto from different years. The length spec changes a little bit from year to year, but the shaft seems to be the same design. I guess that slip joint in the middle allows it to work for a range of years and also allows it to work with lifts and such. Maybe?
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Honestly, its cheaper to just keep getting JY shafts and putting new u-joints in.
The Centering Yoke (on the CV side) is about $60 or so, but the splines need to be cut off and a new splines section welded on if you have too much play.
OR get a custom one from Tattons or Adams Driveshafts - its pretty easy to measure the old one and they build theirs to really be abused. Cost would be a bit cheaper, around $300 to $350 but you need to wait for shipping which may or may not be worth the extra $50 to have one built locally
The Centering Yoke (on the CV side) is about $60 or so, but the splines need to be cut off and a new splines section welded on if you have too much play.
OR get a custom one from Tattons or Adams Driveshafts - its pretty easy to measure the old one and they build theirs to really be abused. Cost would be a bit cheaper, around $300 to $350 but you need to wait for shipping which may or may not be worth the extra $50 to have one built locally
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Now that's the kind of information I was asking for. I'll do a bit of research so I'll be more informed next time. Is there a thread or article you could point me to that goes into more detail?
#9
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I searched up a video on YouTube then rebuilt mine. I think I had $75 in the rebuild. New centerball cv joint & lifetime warranty u joint from Auto Zone. Took about a hour.
The front is still in great shape even after a few good beat downs. I've destroyed one rear shaft & will more than likely finish up the second one next weekend.
The front is still in great shape even after a few good beat downs. I've destroyed one rear shaft & will more than likely finish up the second one next weekend.
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Pretty much sums up where I'm at right now. Putting that extra cash I didn't spend on a new shaft into having the differential shop go thru both diffs and the transfer case, change fluids and inspect them for damage.
Now that's the kind of information I was asking for. I'll do a bit of research so I'll be more informed next time. Is there a thread or article you could point me to that goes into more detail?
Now that's the kind of information I was asking for. I'll do a bit of research so I'll be more informed next time. Is there a thread or article you could point me to that goes into more detail?
The heat from welding often times throws it slightly out of round, so you need to heat that section and quench it repeatedly to try and balance the shaft again, while checking it with a micrometer and balancing machine.
But for the CV Centering yoke - there are quite a few videos on Youtube (ditto for the u-joints)
You can get a full rebuid kit off ebay for fairly cheap (just the joints + centering yoke)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-TJ-YJ-X...dYowMp&vxp=mtr
So, you might want to consider grabbing a front shaft from the junkyard, and checking the splines for any play. If you can find one that is in good shape - it would likely be worth rebuilding.
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And for what it's worth, I had a hard time finding a good condition driveshaft at my local Junkyard because they use forklifts to move the vehicles, and the driveshafts are pretty much exactly where the forks sit so they always get bent. I did finally find a good one, bought it for $18 and had a shop balance it for another $60 or $70.
The joints were all in great shape so I only have about $100 into the shaft but if I were to do it again I would just save up and get a custom one.
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Hmm, well for the splines section I can't really find too much. Probably because it is fairly specialized to cut + weld a new splines section on because the driveshaft needs to be as close to 100% straight and balanced as possible.
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So, you might want to consider grabbing a front shaft from the junkyard, and checking the splines for any play. If you can find one that is in good shape - it would likely be worth rebuilding.
...
So, you might want to consider grabbing a front shaft from the junkyard, and checking the splines for any play. If you can find one that is in good shape - it would likely be worth rebuilding.
Love that video title - 'angry sparrow' is an apt description.