60 v 9
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
60 v 9
So due to mt recent birthday my family and myself are treating.me.to.new axles...im torn. My friend really pushes for me tp do a 9/44 combo but.im leaning more on a 60/44 combo...lets talk just stock axle parts tho. What is probably the better.route as far as reliability, strength, and upgrading prices
#2
the only 9" i would run is in a fabricated housing, and high pinion. and if you can get your family to pay for that go for it!
Otherwise, the housings are mostly junk, and they have an extremely low pinion, and are semifloat. great gear strength, and shaft strength however, which is why you see them in many street applications.
you will pretty much never have an issue with a dana 60 gearset, they come in full floating applications. 35 spline upgrades are cheap and easy, (dont even bother with keeping the 30 spline stuff, as its the same strength as a dana 44 shaft) tons of locker options and aftermarket support.
Id build the dana 60 if i had the choice.
Otherwise, the housings are mostly junk, and they have an extremely low pinion, and are semifloat. great gear strength, and shaft strength however, which is why you see them in many street applications.
you will pretty much never have an issue with a dana 60 gearset, they come in full floating applications. 35 spline upgrades are cheap and easy, (dont even bother with keeping the 30 spline stuff, as its the same strength as a dana 44 shaft) tons of locker options and aftermarket support.
Id build the dana 60 if i had the choice.
#3
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm no axle expert. but I've always wanted a shaved 14 bolt. smaller aftermarket but dirt cheap to build and strong as hell
just throwing that option out there.
just throwing that option out there.
#5
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Right now running 32s only gonna get 35s as a max maybe 37s if I ever do another lift but I want rear locked or.posi'd and front selectable ox locker...they would bpth be.from nc4x4.com I was referred there byy cousin who worked on many a jeep....but its like a 100 dollar diffefence give or take...i just liked the idea of building.like a full float 60. In the rear with trusses and chromoly shafts...same in the front.lol
But I was I guess looking for which one would really be more cost effecfive ffor my wants. I only plan on trailing, a litttle mudding and almost no rock crawling.unless its on the trail
But I was I guess looking for which one would really be more cost effecfive ffor my wants. I only plan on trailing, a litttle mudding and almost no rock crawling.unless its on the trail
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Right now running 32s only gonna get 35s as a max maybe 37s if I ever do another lift but I want rear locked or.posi'd and front selectable ox locker...they would bpth be.from nc4x4.com I was referred there byy cousin who worked on many a jeep....but its like a 100 dollar diffefence give or take...i just liked the idea of building.like a full float 60. In the rear with trusses and chromoly shafts...same in the front.lol
But I was I guess looking for which one would really be more cost effecfive ffor my wants. I only plan on trailing, a litttle mudding and almost no rock crawling.unless its on the trail
But I was I guess looking for which one would really be more cost effecfive ffor my wants. I only plan on trailing, a litttle mudding and almost no rock crawling.unless its on the trail
I do like KTM's post I've always wanted to get a Fabricated 9" with a HP 3rd member and 60 Outters
#7
I did it on 35's, i play in the rocks, it was fine. I even broke it, who knows how many times a 44 would have failed me.
Last edited by ktmracer419; 09-27-2012 at 07:50 AM.
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#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by ktmracer419
Everyone who hasnt run that setup says that.
I did it on 35's, i play in the rocks, it was fine. I even broke it, who knows how many times a 44 would have failed me.
Last edited by ktmracer419; 09-27-2012 at 07:50 AM.
#10
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
60 rear with 35 here also. Yea, it's a big diff but I can hit it and never worry. It's an ISU rear with a ruff stuff cover, so it just smooth metal gliding over rocks. And I don't hit it as often as I thought I would.
#15
how long do you expect your axle build to be anyway? do you want to run super deep gears for 32's? or are you going to run gears for the 32's? or waste money and regear twice?
and honestly from what it sounds like you wheel, a pair of waggy dana 44's will be much cheaper to build and hold up just fine with 35's.
and honestly from what it sounds like you wheel, a pair of waggy dana 44's will be much cheaper to build and hold up just fine with 35's.