I have a 89 xj looking to throw on a 6.5 RC lift and 33's what additional parts am i going to need to make this work? plans are to start with the short arm kit and then maybe the long arm upgrade

 

My suggestion to you use it to not install a 6.5" short arm lift for 33s.

My other suggestion is to pick a different company.

Run 4.5"s of lift, 33" tires and go with a better lift than the RC lift.

 

would you mind explaining ? I am trying to do this on a budget its my winter beater

 

6.5"s of lift is way to high for 33's. 4.5"s is much more reasonable.

6.5"s of lift on short arms causes all kinds of issues. You'll need to do something different with the steering.

RC sells inexpensive kits. RC builds cheap kits. You'll be replacing the parts in a few months. RC stuff is junk. I've bought enough of it to know.

 

ok then who's kit do you recomend to fit 33's?

 

RK 4.5" lift with full spring packs.

RE 4.5" lift with Full Spring Packs.

Zone 4.5" lift with full spring packs.

In that order.

 

I got the 6.5 with short arms and I think it looks exactly right for my taste, if it were any lower it would hit the fenders really easy, plus if you don't like you can lower the springs to 4.5 and change the springs, they have a arm lowering kit that works really good.

 

And gives you a better ride, 6.5 gives you the clearance that a 4.5 gives you on a wrangler, I didn't do long arm because o the unibody, the fact that theirs no frame worried me because the area where the long arm bracket attaches to the body is made to support the transfer barely, I don't think attaching the arms to that is a good idea, at least I don't think it will last long, the short arm on the other hand attaches to the arm brackets even if you get the drop arm kit that I mentioned it still attaches to the brackets and the ride is really good and the flex is really good to.

 

P.S. I have two wranglers with RC on of them has had it for 7 years and never had a problem with it, the other is about 4 years old and works perfect, the only thing I know of is the leaf rubber bushings that get messed up when you flex but leaf springs on any vehicle are not made to flex, besides that is easy to correct with a bracket teraflex makes for a few bucks.
Good luck, Im posting some pictures later.

 

i have a 6.5 inch kit with 33s (Rustys) and my rig looks awesome! **note the missing rear fender flare makes it look like it leans and more clarence in the rear**

 

Um, it doesnt just look like it leans, the flares mount in different locations front and rear so it is actually leaning, nose down. This is the factory setup so if you wanted it to be level you would order a 1" taller spring for the front or a 1" lower spring for the rear.
And to the op, 6.5" is way too tall for 33's, go 4.5" and bumpstop and trim instead, alot less issues with steering at that height.

 

Jesus, dude. Use a period from time to time.

There's nothing wrong with long arms. Plate the unibody and you'll never have to worry about.

There's also nothing wrong with drop brackets. That'd be the only way I'd run short arms on 6.5"s of lift. (I'd also be running 37 at the bare minimum.)

If you don't understand the concept of bumpstops and trimming to fit the tires then of course it's going to rub.

Meh, IMO it's sitting about 2"s too high. With that much lift, 33's, that rack on top and spare up there it'd be on it's side in a heart beat around here.

 

ok but it will settle down in the rear in a couple thousand miles when it gets broken in.

 

nahhh it looks good and will go just fine on the trails.

 

Maybe, the lift is based over stock height and stock the rear is 1" higher than the front so its always going to be nose down unless you add spacers to the front or switch springs.