I'm running a 98 xj with a manual trans. I've heard that the 5 speed trannys are shorter than the automatic ones. I have a 3" add a leaf in my rear spring pack and a 1/2" lift block with a 3 degree pinion shim. The driveshaft was vibrating under hard acceleration so I dropped the t-case. Question is, if I opt to lift my rear end another 1.5" with a shackle, will my vibes come back? At 4.5" a sye is questionable. Some xj's need a sye at 3" some have 5+" of lift on a slip yoke. Should I try it and see what happens? I'm on a budget big time or I'd get a sye in a heartbeat. Input please.

 

I think its a coin toss. I have a 4.5 inch lift and had to use a TC drop and SYE to loose my vibes. Good luck

 

If I eliminated the slip yoke do you think an IRO hack n tap would be suitable since its cheaper and fairly easy to do? The jeep is a daily driver more than a toy so it's not going to see trail abuse much

 

Hi, Iv'e been through all the driveshaft, pinion angle, castor, custom driveshaft issues and have it finally dialed in. 4.5 " RockKrawler lift with drop brackets.
Save yourself endless headache and install a SYE from IronRock and a front XJ driveshaft. The angles of the stock set up at 4.5" will eat u-joints.
Yes, a manual is a little thinner than an auto but the stock front shaft should still work. They are generally 31"
Also a Dana35 has a smaller housing than an 8.25. Again adding to driveshaft length.
The hardest part of a hack-n-tap, is drilling at perfect center of the output shaft.
The output shaft is much easier to cut with the engine running and in Neutral or reverse. I removed front drive shaft also when doing this.
Good luck

 

I'm sorry I should have stated I have the 8.25 rear. Thank you for the info. I will probably get the sye in the near future. Working part time in high school still it's hard to build up the funds. Plus build my 84 Chevy pickup. Just spend 2500 on wheels and 39.5 Tsl's haha

 

$120 for the yoke with drill bit and tap, and $50 - $75 for drive shaft..
Also, Grand Cherokee's have a longer front DS by 1" or so.
Here are some current links. I just got one for $50 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-98-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-FRONT-DRIVESHAFT-ZJ-Drive-Shaft-/151034563018?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D7611166259201888303%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D380630399996%26
http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-96-97-98-99-00-01-JEEP-CHEROKEE-FRONT-DRIVE-SHAFT-4-0L-98165-/181124336254?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACherokee&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a2bda0a7e

 

Thanks man you've been a big help. I'm going to order those shackles up tonight and hopefully get em installed by next weekend to see how the driveshaft acts.

 

I had a similar issue, until I got the front pinion angle exactly aligned with the drive shaft. The TC drop should not be necessary with the SYE.
Have you pinpointed the vibes?
Remove the front Driveshaft and drive it to check for vibes.
Remove the rear DS and drive it. ( I drove up to 60mph on the front DS).
This will narrow it down to an individual shaft and its issues can be addressed.

 

Did you mean shims? between the leaf springs and axle.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ine-20743.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=driv...2&ved=0CC4QsAQ

 

No I currently have a 3" add a leaf and 3 degree pinion shims under my springs. I ordered the 1.5 shackle to make my total lift 4.5". Then I will see how the angle on the shaft is and probably buy an IRO hnt soon. I need a water pump now though it crapped yesterday