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Crap, when I read that you said he has ZJ coils and a welded track bar, I was thinking you meant for the rear.
Thos would be a good choice - an HD leaf spring is going to have a higher spring-rate = stiffer and you will get less "squat" under acceleration which is usually good.
Addco makes a rear sway bar kit that is much better than the factory design - could be adapted for the 8.8. A panhard setup would be pretty cool too but needs some custom fab https://www.quadratec.com/products/76059_801.htm
EDIT:
Also, spend some time cleaning up the wiring and ECU area - would go a long way to make the setup look cleaner. And get an air compressor and cheap harbor freight paint gun, and spray that thing satin "titanium" like the Icon bronocs. Would look sick!
Double Edit:
I would start with mid frame stiffeners, then the front section. That will give you a good base to build on, and will stiffen up the chassis tremendously.
Then get the tuning sorted out because it's no fun unless you can go WOT without stuff blowing up
After that I would do suspension, maybe even after rear frame stiffeners just because you have so much power going back there compared to a Jeep 4.0L
Is that a vacuum actuated exhaust cutout? Never seen one of those before, looks sweet!
Last edited by investinwaffles; 10-03-2018 at 09:28 AM.
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
If you are going with Tom Woods and you get an SYE from him, get the Advance Adapters kit from him. It has a 32 spline rear output and is the strongest. I have two of his driveshafts and believe me, they will take the power and whatever else you can throw at them.
Crap, when I read that you said he has ZJ coils and a welded track bar, I was thinking you meant for the rear.
Thos would be a good choice - an HD leaf spring is going to have a higher spring-rate = stiffer and you will get less "squat" under acceleration which is usually good.
Addco makes a rear sway bar kit that is much better than the factory design - could be adapted for the 8.8. A panhard setup would be pretty cool too but needs some custom fab https://www.quadratec.com/products/76059_801.htm
EDIT:
Also, spendc some time cleaning up the wiring and ECU area - would go a long way to make the setup look cleaner. And get an air compressor and cheap harbor freight paint gun, and spray that thing satin "titanium" like the Icon bronocs. Would look sick!
Double Edit:
I would start with mid frame stiffeners, then the front section. That will give you a good base to build on, and will stiffen up the chassis tremendously.
Then get the tuning sorted out because it's no fun unless you can go WOT without stuff blowing up
After that I would do suspension, maybe even after rear frame stiffeners just because you have so much power going back there compared to a Jeep 4.0L
Is that a vacuum actuated exhaust cutout? Never seen one of those before, looks sweet!
i will order those leaf springs unless anyone has a better idea...
The wiring I would love to clean up and put some type of heat shield over it.
That bronco color is the **** where can you get that color?
tuning is 90% there. Just needs some idle work and I want to retune for 20lbs not 18. Can go WOT now and it’s a bat out of hell.
I feel like the frame stiffeners are the best bet for me. Just need to figure out a welder. I am not welding any thing.
If you are going with Tom Woods and you get an SYE from him, get the Advance Adapters kit from him. It has a 32 spline rear output and is the strongest. I have two of his driveshafts and believe me, they will take the power and whatever else you can throw at them.
i will look into that. Thanks for everyone’s help. I got a killer base to start with but want to take it to next level with your help.
Well I went to order the leaf springs and they are saying it will lift the rear 3.5 inches. Don’t want that happening.
Anyone else have an idea for stronger leaf prints that don’t lift the vehicle as well?
i found a local place I can take the Jeep and they will get the driveshaft figured out for me. It seems like all the sites are saying if you lift your Jeep you need this sye and driveshaft.
But none say anything about stock ride height and more power obviously. This is Chinese to me. I can do the work and understand a lot about cars but I am lost on the driveshaft thing. I really just want no vibration at highway speed and the whine to go away. It’s annoying.
Nice! The RE leafs that are labeled 3.5" lifted my rear closer to 4.5" They are designed for exactly what they say "extreme duty". To be fair, on their site for the lift it said that they can lift anywhere from 3.5"-4.5" The driveline geometry game took a while for me to wrap my head around. This Link from Tom Woods helps mucho. If you install an SYE just expect to correct the rear pinion angle with some leaf shims. This is what I'll be doing in the coming months too, originally I thought that an SYE and new driveshaft alone would fix all my problems, not true.
Nice! The RE leafs that are labeled 3.5" lifted my rear closer to 4.5" They are designed for exactly what they say "extreme duty". To be fair, on their site for the lift it said that they can lift anywhere from 3.5"-4.5" The driveline geometry game took a while for me to wrap my head around. This Link from Tom Woods helps mucho. If you install an SYE just expect to correct the rear pinion angle with some leaf shims. This is what I'll be doing in the coming months too, originally I thought that an SYE and new driveshaft alone would fix all my problems, not true.
that link was was a good read thank you. I can’t seem to find stiffer leaf springs for the rear that keep the stock ride height.
I will I’ll take it in to a couple places and see what they reccomend as far the driveshaft goes. There are a few places local that can help with that. I mainly want to get rid of the slight vibe at 50 or so and quiet down the whine.
Maybe give RE a call. I haven't had to deal with their customer support before but I'm sure they are friendly. Perhaps there is a way to remove one of the leafs from one of their or another manufacturers packs and achieve the ride height you're looking for or they may be able to point you in the right direction for a solid stock heigh pack. Good luck
Stock driveshaft = slip yoke. The shaft has a splined tube that slides over the transfer case output shaft.
Aftermarket Double-Cardan = 1 additional u-joint to help deal with varied angles (helpful if you DO intend to lower it)
Lowering it is going to be tough, you will need to find a custom fab shop to get it set up properly. So many things you need to modify but its definitely possible. Leaf under axle is going to be necessary
These are listed as stock height with various spring rates. I would go with the stiffest to be honest
10-03-2018, 09:05 AM
