44 front, 9.75 rear
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As for as the 100 lb-ft of torque being nothing to boast about that is true, but the MOT between the Dana 60 sf is 600 lb-ft and that is a real advantage when wheeling because the sudden torque increases is what breaks axles not the long study pull.
seems to be alot of talk about 44s and 60s, but not alot of talk about how much it will take to get them under your jeep....
is your jeep built now? how much lift, what size tires?
how deep are your pockets?
Im currently swapping a F-250 dana 44, with a 31 spline 9'' under my XJ, both are so far trussed, with 5.13s, ARBs, mollys, OTK, all new brakes etc...and Im about 3k into them now, minus the cost of install
also you have to think that if you are going to swap axles, be prepared to run at LEAST 35s, Im planning 37s or 38s for mine, and the bigger the tire the more it costs, 1400 for 4 37'' IROKS.
then that leads to bead locks, trailworthy fab sells recentered H1s with welded rock rings, and for a set of for it was around 1600 bucks.
well now that you can roll on 37s and kick everyones *** on the trail, it may be time for hydro...$$$$.....then unibody stiffening....$$$.....then big boy shocks, with towers...$$$.....then a roll cage, then exo....$$$$.....then you realize you could be stronger after you snap about 20 44 shafts, and you decide to go 1 tons, and it all starts over agin.
do you see where im going with this???
4.5" and 33s with a well built 30 and 8.25 may not be such a bad idea.
just sayin.
is your jeep built now? how much lift, what size tires?
how deep are your pockets?
Im currently swapping a F-250 dana 44, with a 31 spline 9'' under my XJ, both are so far trussed, with 5.13s, ARBs, mollys, OTK, all new brakes etc...and Im about 3k into them now, minus the cost of install
also you have to think that if you are going to swap axles, be prepared to run at LEAST 35s, Im planning 37s or 38s for mine, and the bigger the tire the more it costs, 1400 for 4 37'' IROKS.
then that leads to bead locks, trailworthy fab sells recentered H1s with welded rock rings, and for a set of for it was around 1600 bucks.
well now that you can roll on 37s and kick everyones *** on the trail, it may be time for hydro...$$$$.....then unibody stiffening....$$$.....then big boy shocks, with towers...$$$.....then a roll cage, then exo....$$$$.....then you realize you could be stronger after you snap about 20 44 shafts, and you decide to go 1 tons, and it all starts over agin.
do you see where im going with this???
4.5" and 33s with a well built 30 and 8.25 may not be such a bad idea.
just sayin.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,671
Likes: 11
From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
This. Running a stock 44 up front is worse than running your 30... Small ujoints on old *** axles. And those ujoints are probably factory ones from the 70s bc you don't need to change em as much with the lockouts. I'm running 35s bc I'm not a huge fan of anything much bigger on a cherokee that isn't a trailer queen (if you want it to last that is..) and I'm running full stiffys and a cage. Just slapping axles under your jeep and mounting 37s to drive around and crawl over small rocks is stupid, you can do pretty much everything short of insane on 35s in a xj. I built mine to drive thousands of miles, sit on the revlimiter crawling, then do 65 through the whoops on the way home. It cost a lot of money, and I'm still not done.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Pensacola
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8L
I'm not a rich man by any means. Cost isn't an issue with me though. I'm not building them next weekend and slapping them under on Monday. This a long build like most XJ's out there. I have a small Fab shop in my garage and everything I don't have at home, I have at work. I dont want to pay someone to build my toys. This is all me. I got a couple of FREE axles so I'm going to use them. I like the idea of building my own long arm kit. I like the idea of fab'ing all the brackets and various supports I'll need. I'm a metal smith and welder by trade. One day I would like to have a hybrid cage and run 37's with coil overs and a chopped top with a pinched rear. Maybe I'll get to do it, maybe not. Either way it's my build. I'm going to have fun doing it.
Last edited by Klondike; Apr 28, 2012 at 10:23 PM.
I'm not a rich man by any means. Cost isn't an issue with me though. I'm not building them next weekend and slapping them under on Monday. This a long build like most XJ's out there. I have a small Fab shop in my garage and everything I don't have at home, I have at work. I dont want to pay someone to build my toys. This is all me. I got a couple of FREE axles so I'm going to use them. I like the idea of building my own long arm kit. I like the idea of fab'ing all the brackets and various supports I'll need. I'm a metal smith and welder by trade. One day I would like to have a hybrid cage and run 37's with coil overs and a chopped top with a pinched rear. Maybe I'll get to do it, maybe not. Either way it's my build. I'm going to have fun doing it.
step 1. trash the "free" axles. they are worthless.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
The Ford 9.75 will handle more torque than a Dana 60 sf or ff. It will not carry as much weight.
Ford 9.75 Coninuous output torque = 1600 lb-ft
Maximum output torque = 6100 lb-ft
Dana 60 sf COT = 1500 lb-ft, MOT = 5500 lb-ft
Dana 60 ff COT = 1500 lb-ft, Mot = 6000 lb-ft
These are the numbers, like I've stated the 9.75 is a good axle to use for wheeling the Dana 60 is a better axle if your are carrying a lot of weight.
If you retubed the 9.75 with DOM tubing it would carry more weight than the Dana 60 sf, but carrying a lot of weight isn't needed for wheeling in most cases.
Ford 9.75 Coninuous output torque = 1600 lb-ft
Maximum output torque = 6100 lb-ft
Dana 60 sf COT = 1500 lb-ft, MOT = 5500 lb-ft
Dana 60 ff COT = 1500 lb-ft, Mot = 6000 lb-ft
These are the numbers, like I've stated the 9.75 is a good axle to use for wheeling the Dana 60 is a better axle if your are carrying a lot of weight.
If you retubed the 9.75 with DOM tubing it would carry more weight than the Dana 60 sf, but carrying a lot of weight isn't needed for wheeling in most cases.
Perhaps we should start a mass newsletter to inform folks that Dana has been topped by Ford.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 3
From: Cove, OR
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm sorry if facts are troubling for you, but the OP said he had a Ford 9.75 axle, it was stated that there was no aftermarket support for the axle. Well there is support for the axle. [ not as much as for Dana 60s, but enough ]
If you want to do a newsletter stating that Dana has been topped by Ford go for it, but the Dana 80 is actually the stronger axle beating the Ford 10.50 by about 400 ft-lbs.
down here you don't need 60's a 44 and 9'' will be just fine, and take you wherever you need to go.
unless you want to build a buggy. then go 60's
the real truth, is if you pick the correct tire size, and axle combo, and wheel within the limits of the chosen pair, then you have nothing to worry about.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Pensacola
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8L
Originally Posted by Back_In_Black
haha your in p-cola, I live off of 8th and avery, come over and kill a few beers sometime and talk jeep.
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