So I'm in the middle of building a daily driver / desert trail vehicle. No rock crawling. For suspension, I'm running 4"BDS coils and leafs and I'm ready to upgrade the stock control arms. I was planning on getting an Iron Rock Offroad Subframe http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XSP, mount lower long arms and adjustable uppers mounted in factory position.

So my question is, will this work? I can't tell where the uppers on the 4-link long arm kits mount (such as Rock Krawler's long arm kit). The more I got to thinking about it, I'm not sure the shorter upper, long lower will work very good.

Any opinions or experiences in this area?

 

i don't have experience with that kit or any similar kit, but just bear in mind that the stock control arm setup is like that, with shorter uppers and longer lowers, so i would imagine that setup isn't totally bad.

 

Why do you want to use the factory location for the uppers?
If your going to buy the IRO kit, just use the radius arms.
Having that much length difference in the arms is going to do bad things to the pinion angle while the suspension cycles through its range of motion.

 

you will have some bad pinion dive when your suspension droops.
the driveshaft will bind, and the faxtory uca mounts are super weak anyway, especially for go-fast stuff.

 

Ok obviously you and everyone else here are confused. You can not see where the uppers mount cause they mount on the lowers with this type of kit.

 

I'm talking about a 4 link setup, not a radius arm setup, I think you're the one confused

 

Obviously you're confused. OP is not asking about using radius arms.

Still a bad idea as it'll wreak havoc on your pinion angle throughout axle travel.

 

obviously we read the original post......

 

Teraflex has a kit like that. it sucks.

 

Yeah, Teraflex and Rock Krawler both seem to have kits like that. I'm just trying to figure out where the uppers mount to the body on those kits. I agree with everyone else, I think your pinion angle would be flopping up and down throughout the stroke, which probably wouldn't be that bad for slow rock crawling, but would be real bad going 70 mph through the desert.

 

That IRO crossmember is meant for radius arm. You will either need to modify that, find a different one or make one.

 

 

It's not a big step to go from a cross member like the IRO, made for radius arms, to a 3 or 4 link. You nly need one or two upped mounts added.

No, don't used the short upper and long lower set up. It'll work fine as long as your suspension doesn't move, but KTM's right, it'll create large issues very quickly as the suspension cycles.

I'll look for the diagram I saw that clearly outlines what happens with different length arms. I'll give you a big arrrrg if you find it.

 

why not just get the long arms with the cross-member. I am running them and so far i'm impressed. BUT, if you don't want to run them, like stated above, the crossmember is made for a radius arm setup. and it made for a heim joint(not sure if a regular sized control arm bushing will fit or not).

 

The short upper arm will pull the axle the exact opposite rotation as the bottom diagram, bind/break your drive shaft u-joints at best. Do it right if you're going to do it. Keep reading, you're not there yet.