Hi We just got a 4 dr 2001 Cherokee SPort. I hope it is an XJ or I am in the wrong place.
I put 235 75 15 tires on it to increase clearance under the diff and would like to do a 2" lift to help keep the rocks out of the steering gear. I see two kits. Ine has a shackle for the rear and one requires taking the spring stacks apart to insert a stiffener spring. The shackle looks easier but will it introduce any instability or problems? I don't do any real rock crawling but I do go up some rocky paths. I also use it on back roads and don't want any extra tail wag. I have the original 15x 7" wheels with 235 75 156 Nexen Rodian AT pro tires. I am new to this so advice would be appreciated. We had a 2 door tracker with larger tires that went up anything but this is new territory.
Thanks

 

Yes, an 01 Regular Cherokee (Sport) is an XJ.

Taking the rear leaf springs off can be a heck of a job. You'll want to look into it... there's a common problem with rusting of the inner bushing sleeve and folks often break the weld nut.

If it were me, I'd take a good look at those springs and see what shape they are in. If you're lucky and live in a low rust area, maybe you'll have little trouble, but most places and most folks trying to get the spring bolts off have a rough time doing it.
I'd also go with the extended shackle. 2" isn't all that big a lift. The shackle means taking off the middle and rear bolts (they're big m'f'r's) and you can cut the middle one pretty easy if you have to, then it's only the rear one with the trouble.

Even better, there are spacer blocks that sit under the spring, raising the whole thing up and preventing you from having to deal with spring bolts. The U-bolts were 1000x easier to deal with than the spring bolts... I had all the regular/common trouble when I did mine, but I did NOT break the weld nut since I took care to heat the bolts to free up the red loctite.

There is a "Modified" XJ section for lifts and that sort of thing, folks that frequent that part of the forum may know better than the more "stock" oriented folks over here... worth checking in on anyway.

 

Thanks. The block sounds easier. I wasn't sure what you folks consider modified. I'll check with those folks.

 

Another thing to check on the the 0331 head fault... you'll want to know if it was ever addressed or not on your 01. Google it, there's tons of info.

Honestly, you don't really need 2" of lift to be pretty damn capable on rocky paths. You'll find the XJ, in decent mechanical shape, will put a Tracker to shame even at stock height. The solid front axle is a huge advantage in clearing rocks. IFS vehicles short of a real Humvee are just not going to be as capable.

 

Modified usually implies some serious upgrades... a 2" lift is very very mild and doesn't require the major mods that those folks are expert at. Of course, there's a lot of crossover, so it's hard to say if there's a hard and solid line between what's right for which forum until you hit 3"+ of lift.


Also, to prevent "tail wag" you'll want to make sure the rear sway bar is in good shape.. it's normally something folks eliminate without much of a thought, but if you want to be really solid in the "tail wag" department, keep it and make sure it's got good rubber.

 

I am going to say forget add-a-leafs, lift shackles, and lift blocks. Go with a new pair of leaf packs to lift the rear. it probably needs them anyway.

In the front use lift springs not spacers.

These arent the parts to be cheaping out on when fixing a vehicle up for trails and rocks. Broken/rusted bolts is just part of the game when working on these old XJs

 

Lift blocks!? Seriously!?

 

This would be the "correct" way to do a 2" lift. It's also a bit more expensive.

O.P. --- Seriously, take a look at the many posts with detailed instructions on replacing XJ leaf springs. I can only tell you that THAT was pretty damn accurate a depiction of the work and effort. I've heard of folks having an easier time, it's possible, it's rare though. Most of us end up with the bull-crap described and many of those folks end up having to cut into the leaf bracket to make a "window" to access the weld nut side. It's a serious job and not overly difficult if you're handy with a wrench, but it's a lot of time... even if you're handy with a wrench.

IF you're comfortable with doing that, Yes, like Trailer Trash is saying, get a decent set of 2" lifted leaf springs and 2" lifted springs and that is definitely the BEST way to achieve 2" of lift. You'll pay several hundred bucks and spend between a half and 3 days time wrenching on that project depending on how fast you work. Again, it's the "right" way to do it.... you may need new leafs anyway which means you're doing the job, lift or no.

IF you're desperate for a mild lift, if you're looking for a quick solution (especially if you're looking for temporary lift to see how you like it on a vehicle you're unfamiliar with), if you don't want to spend a ton of money, the other stuff is an option. It does work, it's not as nice as the proper lift, but it'll give you a little height.

I still say, consider stock height... drive the Jeep around a bit and see if you even want to lift it at all. 235's as you have are the popular size, they're plenty capable on a stock height Jeep and then you save yourself the struggle of chasing wear (meaning, you shift the way it's worked for 20 years, other crap starts wearing out because the geometry is off).. you're wearing out junk chinese parts or firing the parts cannon on the stuff you would've done for a more serious lift package... 2" isn't much of a difference. At least consider whether you'll need it. I drive my stock 95 down some pretty serious dirt roads, through several inches of snow-ice (that's snow that's frozen hard and might as well be a rock) and never have an issue.

 

Welcome Kahoona. You're going to be amazed at how capable these things really are just as they came from the factory.

There's tons of free or cheap mods you can do to them to make it more specific to you needs.

I recommend not wasting your time and money on used dprings. Adding helper springs make it ride stiff and don't last as long as new springs.
Do yourself and family a favor by doing a real 2 inch with new proper springs and shocks.

For other stuff check out https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/


Keep the greasy side down.

 

I agree with this, if you are going to go to the trouble, replace 20yr old worn out parts with new ones, it will ride better

Especially the rear springs, they sag, (front ones dont cost much anyway)

I recommend to consider adjustable trackbar and longer rear brake line, even for a 2" lift, they will be end-of-life anyway

sure you can save a few hundred bucks, but if you want to go higher later, can just add rear shackles and spacers then if you really want

 

You are making a lot of sense here. I did notice that the leafs looked a bit saggy. I'll have to price those things out. Best to wait till I have the money and do it right. Do they make springs that are progressive and soften the road ride but offer more resistance when compressed fully? I could justify the coat to the wife if it rode better

 

A good way to determine the condition of your leaf packs is to look from the back and see what the look like.
smiling = good shape
Flat = Not good
frowning = need replaced

If they are frowning then stock replacement leafs will give you at least an inch of lift(back up to factory height)

 

Would it be fair to say that if the rear are flat and the bumper heights front and rear are the same I need new front coils also?

 

Yep!!

Moog CC782's are the way to go!!

 

Absolutely!!

It also adds safety, will make you lose weight, be smarter and win lotto.

OK it just looks cooler.