There is a lot of pro and con on this. Has it been done, yes. But a lot depends on type of wheeling and whether or not you are using lockers and which rear axle you have. If you have a D35 rear axle, forget it especially if it is locked. 97+ Cryco 8.25 maybe. Locking it might be a little iffy in the rocks, especially with a selectable locker. Front axle, don't lock it unless you upgrade to 30 spline axle and don't use a selectable locker

 

I would do at least 4.56 gears with chromoly shafts in the front. The rear if it is a Dana 35 I would get rid of it and put a Chrysler 8.25 in, if you have the 8.25 they you are set, just put 4.56 gears in.

 

i have run 36 bias ply iroks on stock d30 and xj44 with a lok-rite in the rear only.
i did throw in a lok-rite in the front once, it snapped a u-joint first run out. removed the locker and ran only rear locked. worked great.

i wouldn't run a locker in the front without at least a super30 kit or RCV shafts installed minimum.

 

• 2000 XJ Sport // Inline-6 // 4WD // 4-door

 

you dont need a big lift. You can trim and bumpstop easily.

 

Can you do it? Sure.

SHOULD you do it? Maybe. If you're willing to accept some things will be an issue.

So, bottom line here, is how are you using it. Do you daily it, or trail only?

If you're going to drive it on the street, be prepared for it to be a dog, and get crap mileage to boot. It will also be extremely hard on the engine and transmission, as it changes the rpms and shift ranges.

If you want to buy them go for it, but know you will need to rehear, and you might as well do lockers then, but once, cry once.

My .02

 

As said above. Tire weight plays more than height. that tire probably only measures to a true 35 or maybe even 34.5. My 35's measure to a 34. Make sure your axle bearings are new, brakes are in good shape(good time to swap to a disc brake rear), u-joints are in tip-top shape, and you will want to re-gear to at least 4.88's. Your transmission will run allot warmer so your going to need to add an auxillary cooler, and do a filter/fluid change, and keep it out of OD, and use 4lo as much as possible off road. Those 15" wide tires are going to murder your hub bearings, ball joints, and u joints in very short order.

 

Do lots of research first.

 

I wouldn't run tires that big on stock axles. Too many compromises. I would be looking for a minimum of a front Dana 44. You can swap one in from a donor vehicle like a TJ Rubicon, Grand Wagoneer, or even a Ford pickup. Or if you have plenty of money you can buy an aftermarket axle set up for the XJ. If you have the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, it could be built to handle the 36" tire. The Dana 35 can't be upgraded enough to handle it. If you swap in a donor front axle you may want to grab the rear at the same time to match the wheel bolt pattern. I have a set of D44s from a Grand Wagoneer under mine because both have a 6 bolt pattern.

Either way, you're going to want to swap out the axle gears to match the tire diameter. You shouldn't be considering anything less than 4.56 gears. 4.88's would probably be better. 5.13's would be good if you are at high altitude and/or you do a lot of off roading.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys! what axles and gearing do you think would be best (front and rear) to hold 35's and still be my DD and do some offroading as well? I have a 6.5-inch lift and wouldn't mind doing some trimming anyway...

 

I am going to be running 35s soon and for the axles I am regearing to 4.56, adding heavy duty covers, and doing the full circle clip upgrade on the front u-joints, I already have Spartan lockers in both axles so I will be keeping them.

 

If you drive over 70mph, your gonna want 4.56's. If you stay below 70mph, 4.88's