33s on a 4" lift.... where to cut to make it work!?!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
I am close 285/75/16 (32.75 x 11.25 x 16) wrapped around Soft 8s (16 x 8, 4" BS)
I just drew a sharpie line around the front flares and I cut it open... no flex issues up front..., the rear fits fine for street use and going over center divides... but i still need to trim for trail use
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From: Rapid City, SD
Model: Cherokee
The width of the wheel really depends on what your going to be doing most.
8" wide for a 12.50 tire would help when you are aired down, it would help keep the tire seated on the rim. Better for off-road.
10" wide for a 12.50 would have better road manners. The tire would actually function better aired down, but would have a harder time staying seated on the rim. Unless you have beadlocks.
8" wide for a 12.50 tire would help when you are aired down, it would help keep the tire seated on the rim. Better for off-road.
10" wide for a 12.50 would have better road manners. The tire would actually function better aired down, but would have a harder time staying seated on the rim. Unless you have beadlocks.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6cyl.
Well I am glad I checked this thread. As far as it goes, still going for 31s for now, got a deal on them and like the tires. I was still going to do cutting for flex, I may not need to seeing all this. Oh well, there is all ways next time, but, on the other hand, how hard is it on the stock brakes having the 33 at a larger rotating mass and especially those who have them off set out wider and on steel rather than aluminum? That is also the main reason behind me and the 31s, they are going on the stock wheels and we will see how that goes. Staying tuned.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: North of boston
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Whaaaaaaaaaa???
Yes dude, adjustable control arms so you can adjust where you want your axle. When you move your axle forward a little, you don't have to trim, or trim the back of the fender as much. Once you cut, you can't go back, but you can always move your axle more forward and cut the front more instead. Adjustables also aid in getting your alignment proper.
Most lower end lifts include fixed arms, the better ones have adjustables.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtr...trol-arms.html
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=ARMS
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=ARMS
http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Jeep_XJ.../XJ_FULCA.html
.. and there's lots more. I personally like them better w/joints because you get better flex and less stress on your mounts.
Yes dude, adjustable control arms so you can adjust where you want your axle. When you move your axle forward a little, you don't have to trim, or trim the back of the fender as much. Once you cut, you can't go back, but you can always move your axle more forward and cut the front more instead. Adjustables also aid in getting your alignment proper.
Most lower end lifts include fixed arms, the better ones have adjustables.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtr...trol-arms.html
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=ARMS
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=ARMS
http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Jeep_XJ.../XJ_FULCA.html
.. and there's lots more. I personally like them better w/joints because you get better flex and less stress on your mounts.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
From: Lexington Park, MD
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Well I am glad I checked this thread. As far as it goes, still going for 31s for now, got a deal on them and like the tires. I was still going to do cutting for flex, I may not need to seeing all this. Oh well, there is all ways next time, but, on the other hand, how hard is it on the stock brakes having the 33 at a larger rotating mass and especially those who have them off set out wider and on steel rather than aluminum? That is also the main reason behind me and the 31s, they are going on the stock wheels and we will see how that goes. Staying tuned.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6cyl.
Ok, on that note, I have looked and posted trying to figure out my my brake pedal is so damn hard, the brake light in the dash is on, I know this is not a part of this thread, but if some one has an idea or a better link than please, let me know.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by XJ Joe 1723
Ok, on that note, I have looked and posted trying to figure out my my brake pedal is so damn hard, the brake light in the dash is on, I know this is not a part of this thread, but if some one has an idea or a better link than please, let me know.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
From: Lexington Park, MD
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Do your brakes work fine it's just that the pedal is hard to press down, or does it seem like it's going to the floor before anything happens?
when in an emergency cause you gotta push the 
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
if the brake light is on the fluid is low/empty. check the fluid level. the firm pedal does sound like a booster problem. but never seen a booster cause a brake light to come one... unless you have abs...?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: North of boston
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Elk Grove, CA
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, PowerAid, AirAid, hi-flow Cat, Magnaflow
Because the rear shoes would be expanded, pedal would only be activating the front brakes to the point of contact then you'd get the same feel as thought the pedal were close to the floor under NORMAL circumstances (hard!).