3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
Looking for anyone who has installed a 3" rough country or other 3" lift AND a Transfer Case drop.
Looking for long term comments/review... Pro/Con any problems? did it solve any issues? etc. Again, Only looking for 3" lift first hand experience. Thanks. also added a poll |
3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
I've done it, only about 5-6 months in. The tcase drop solved the driveline vibes. However, make sure you check the rubber grommets in the tcase shifting linkage. Mine wore out and I could not use 4x4 until replacing them. Also, I have heard it puts more stress on motor mounts, but I plan on replacing my stock ones when I can.
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Honestly i would buy the lift and t case drop and try driving it with out the t case drop.Some people don't need one at 3 inches some do.If you drive it and you feel the rear of the jeep vibrating then put the t case drop on.If you do need it i would save up and replace it with a sye later on,The cheapest sye is a hack and tap that uses a stock xj front driveshaft in the rear.
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If you really want a tc drop, I have a 1-2" drop kit if you want it. I'll throw it in free of charge. You can use it as a 1 inch drop or a 2 inch.
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Originally Posted by 93_xjcherokee
(Post 3138409)
If you really want a tc drop, I have a 1-2" drop kit if you want it. I'll throw it in free of charge. You can use it as a 1 inch drop or a 2 inch.
but I already ordered one. :o |
BTW,
I do like the SYE concept... but it'$ just not in the cards right now. another Q: for my feeble mind, Why is it the front driveshaft is vibration free and has no need for an SYE? looks to be the same style as the back... a yolk attached to a driveshaft.... only difference is the front shaft has some sort of slide mechanism built in... which seems like it wouldn't help any yolk to shaft angle problems... |
Stock rear shaft is 'single cardan'. One joint at each end, slip shaft is part of the yoke and not the driveshaft.
Stock front shaft is 'double cardan'. Has three u-joints and a slip shaft. Here are good explanations; http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm https://grabcad.com/library/double-cardan-joint-1 |
The driveshafts front and rear are two different styles,The front is a double cardan that has more flex the slip is made in to the shaft and both ends yokes are fixed aka bolted to the axle and the t case.The rear is a single candan solid shaft and has a slip yoke at the t case and a fixed yoke at the axle.The single candan has less flex and when you lift the driveshaft angle gets too steep and causes the vibrations most say you get.A t case drop wll fix that problem but will also change the engine and trans angles which is bad over a long time.And you lose ground clearance with a t case drop so off road you can high center easier or drag the t case on stuff.The reason for a sye you don't lose any ground clearance you get a stronger driveshaft and no vibrations.The hack and tap is the cheapest sye because you cut off the shaft sticking out the t case and tap it for a bolt and bolt a yoke on it.The others make you open the t case to change out the shaft and tail housing on the t case is why they cost more.The hack and tap can be a pain if you don't cut the shaft straight and the shaft is harden so it takes a while to cut off.
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
(Post 3138430)
Stock front shaft is 'double cardan'. Has three u-joints and a slip shaft.
I just crawled under and took another look.... I looked quick the other day, thought It was a single u joint in front. Thanks. |
:nerd:
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Originally Posted by John T
(Post 3138440)
OK.
I just crawled under and took another look.... I looked quick the other day, thought It was a single u joint in front. Thanks. |
I answered your other post on this. I did a 3" lift with a 1" TC drop after a year both the engine and trans mounts had to be replaced because of it and I suspect the u-joint as well but not sure on it.
I installed it to be a stopgap measure till the SYE, that I had not long afterward but waited till a lot more was to be done at the same time gears, lockers, more lift, steering, etc. My fault I knew better and paid the price for it. |
Originally Posted by SteveMongr
(Post 3138465)
Look above cross member where drive shaft attaches to transfer case yoke, there are two more joints and a centering ball inside that knuckle.
got it. |
Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
(Post 3138490)
I answered your other post on this. I did a 3" lift with a 1" TC drop after a year both the engine and trans mounts had to be replaced because of it and I suspect the u-joint as well but not sure on it.
I installed it to be a stopgap measure till the SYE, that I had not long afterward but waited till a lot more was to be done at the same time gears, lockers, more lift, steering, etc. My fault I knew better and paid the price for it. Yeah, I guess my hope with this thread was to hear from a bunch of people that said, YES, I have used a TC drop with a 3" lift and it cured all my problems and no Ill effects... :D still waiting... LOL ! |
I know you don't want to hear any negative feedback on this thread but a tc drop changes the angles of everything, hence the reason it puts stress on motor mounts and other components. I know some people are against degree shims without a sye but I have degree shims on the rear diff on mine. Why don't you look into those instead?
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