3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
 

Looking for anyone who has installed a 3" rough country or other 3" lift AND a Transfer Case drop.

Looking for long term comments/review... Pro/Con

any problems?
did it solve any issues? etc.

Again,
Only looking for 3" lift first hand experience.

Thanks.

also added a poll

3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
 

I've done it, only about 5-6 months in. The tcase drop solved the driveline vibes. However, make sure you check the rubber grommets in the tcase shifting linkage. Mine wore out and I could not use 4x4 until replacing them. Also, I have heard it puts more stress on motor mounts, but I plan on replacing my stock ones when I can.

Honestly i would buy the lift and t case drop and try driving it with out the t case drop.Some people don't need one at 3 inches some do.If you drive it and you feel the rear of the jeep vibrating then put the t case drop on.If you do need it i would save up and replace it with a sye later on,The cheapest sye is a hack and tap that uses a stock xj front driveshaft in the rear.

If you really want a tc drop, I have a 1-2" drop kit if you want it. I'll throw it in free of charge. You can use it as a 1 inch drop or a 2 inch.

Thanks.


but I already ordered one. :o

BTW,
I do like the SYE concept... but it'$ just not in the cards right now.

another Q: for my feeble mind,

Why is it the front driveshaft is vibration free and has no need for an SYE?

looks to be the same style as the back... a yolk attached to a driveshaft.... only difference is the front shaft has some sort of slide mechanism built in...

which seems like it wouldn't help any yolk to shaft angle problems...

Stock rear shaft is 'single cardan'. One joint at each end, slip shaft is part of the yoke and not the driveshaft.
Stock front shaft is 'double cardan'. Has three u-joints and a slip shaft.
Here are good explanations;
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm
https://grabcad.com/library/double-cardan-joint-1

The driveshafts front and rear are two different styles,The front is a double cardan that has more flex the slip is made in to the shaft and both ends yokes are fixed aka bolted to the axle and the t case.The rear is a single candan solid shaft and has a slip yoke at the t case and a fixed yoke at the axle.The single candan has less flex and when you lift the driveshaft angle gets too steep and causes the vibrations most say you get.A t case drop wll fix that problem but will also change the engine and trans angles which is bad over a long time.And you lose ground clearance with a t case drop so off road you can high center easier or drag the t case on stuff.The reason for a sye you don't lose any ground clearance you get a stronger driveshaft and no vibrations.The hack and tap is the cheapest sye because you cut off the shaft sticking out the t case and tap it for a bolt and bolt a yoke on it.The others make you open the t case to change out the shaft and tail housing on the t case is why they cost more.The hack and tap can be a pain if you don't cut the shaft straight and the shaft is harden so it takes a while to cut off.

OK.
I just crawled under and took another look.... I looked quick the other day, thought It was a single u joint in front.

Thanks.

:nerd:

Look above cross member where drive shaft attaches to transfer case yoke, there are two more joints and a centering ball inside that knuckle.

I answered your other post on this. I did a 3" lift with a 1" TC drop after a year both the engine and trans mounts had to be replaced because of it and I suspect the u-joint as well but not sure on it.


I installed it to be a stopgap measure till the SYE, that I had not long afterward but waited till a lot more was to be done at the same time gears, lockers, more lift, steering, etc.


My fault I knew better and paid the price for it.

Yep.

got it.

Thanks.

Yeah,
I guess my hope with this thread was to hear from a bunch of people that said, YES, I have used a TC drop with a 3" lift and it cured all my problems and no Ill effects... :D

still waiting... LOL !

I know you don't want to hear any negative feedback on this thread but a tc drop changes the angles of everything, hence the reason it puts stress on motor mounts and other components. I know some people are against degree shims without a sye but I have degree shims on the rear diff on mine. Why don't you look into those instead?

I'm not against negative comments. I just like factual comments.
yes, I have thought about shims. Thanks for the suggestion!

I used them for a 55 chevy I built a few years ago.

I think a 3 or 4 degree would help... as for the TC drop,
I think (and only guessing) that those that have had motor mount problems are torqing the motor/off roading aggressively. (or the motor mounts were on their way out before they installed a TC drop)
I think with a street jeep It should be fine. an inch drop does not put that much twist on an engine mount..... flame away... LOL

now you got me thinkin...

again... LMAO...

anyway,
I got my hands full this afternoon....

I just dropped the gas tank... I need to repair a rust hole in the right rear frame.... just above the axle.

SafeTcap dont make apiece for the XJ

so I'm gonna make my own... :shuriken:

had a 3" skyjacker lift and had vibes, installed skyjackers t-case drop kit. that took care of most of the vibes but the angle put stress on the motor mounts and exhaust so I ended up with squeaks and bangs I never had before. I now run a SYE with a stock front shaft in the rear.

It appears you had decided what you were going to do before you even ask, so why even bother just do it!

My jeep hasn't seen above 3k rpm since I have owned it neither on or off road. So I don't torque my motor hardly at all. I drive like a half blind grandpa

Nope.

But I am gonna try the TC drop and see what the actual engine drop is...
When I get a free moment I'm gonna check my actual pinion angles... so far, I'm just shootin the chit and pickin yer brains...

I may just opt to shim the rear axle.... gotta see what the current angle is...

and yes, I have also used the search function.


I thank everyone for the suggestions on SYE

I have looked into them... quite the decision there too... a few different options.

If I did ever go SYE, I really like the same D-shaft front and rear....

Just sayin.... I have read 2 threads so far with guys that have installed SYE and STILL have driveline vibes... so...

I think every situation/jeep is slightly different.

anyway...
I'm gonna hit the hay.


happy Labor day everyone. :clover:

There should be no guesswork when it comes to drivelines. They are either properly set up, or they are not.
Let's understand driveline mechanics first, then make a decision.
The rear shaft is not designed to operate at higher angles, it is a 2-joint system.
Simply put, for the stock rear shaft, the angle between transfer case yoke (output shaft)and driveshaft, should be the Same as the axle pinion and drive shaft. This is considered 'in phase'. If the angles are different, than the joints are 'out of phase' and driveshaft will vibrate.

The front driveshaft operates on the same principal, but the set up angles differ.

Those with a SYE that still have vibes, again due to improper setup.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...veshaft-angle/
http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php

Can someone sticky this please! Plain and simple english right here.

After I installed my SYE I didn't like the angle and shimmed the rear also, no vibration just not the angle that I wanted.

I've got a few months of daily driving on my RC 3" lift with a TC drop kit. It's been great so far, but I never planned on it being a permanent solution. I just used the drop as a band aid fix until I could put in an SYE.

Same here. I did a 3" lift and although I didn't get any vibrations or "death wobble" I did get some weird clacking noise which I tracked to the TC, which wasn't there before the lift.
I made some 3/4" TC drop spacers to test out and the noise is gone. When everything settles (reminder to myself, everything should be settled by now) I'll change to a 1/2" spacer, then possibly 1/4". If the noise returns I'll have to go with a SYE.

I have added my first 3" Rough Country Lift Kit on my 01 Jeep XJ Tires 31x10.5 General Grabber AT2 on 15x9 XD Eduro and I didn't need to do a transfer case drop. What do you need help with?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c77715d200.jpg

Don't know if this counts but along with my Upcountry Package 1" stock lift, installed a 1.75" Daystar budget lift. Almost 3" total.
I felt slight drive line vibrations only while accelerating at higher speeds.

Installed a Rustys 1" crossmember drop which cured the vibration problem.
That was 30k miles ago. Everything appears ok except a weird tranny fluid leak i think but not 100% sure coming from the Tcase. The Tcase output seal area is dry as is the rest of the Tcase.
Until i get that leak source figured out in warmer weather, the jury is still out.

3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
 

Old thread. Jus givin take. We had the original rear dl on the 88 xj with the 6.5 lift. But when i got my 99 same height withe the sye... Wow. Better ride and so capable. Its like dang mtn goat. That old dl... Fooey.

I live at big dune nv. Yall ever visiting hit me up. During the week got it to myself pretty much. Cheers.love. gotta go.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e734fa7ad8.jpg