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-   -   3" lift with TC drop. Comments please. (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/3-lift-tc-drop-comments-please-213814/)

John T Sep 6, 2015 06:51 AM

3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
 
Looking for anyone who has installed a 3" rough country or other 3" lift AND a Transfer Case drop.

Looking for long term comments/review... Pro/Con

any problems?
did it solve any issues? etc.

Again,
Only looking for 3" lift first hand experience.

Thanks.

also added a poll

Lake00XJ Sep 6, 2015 09:32 AM

3" lift with TC drop. Comments please.
 
I've done it, only about 5-6 months in. The tcase drop solved the driveline vibes. However, make sure you check the rubber grommets in the tcase shifting linkage. Mine wore out and I could not use 4x4 until replacing them. Also, I have heard it puts more stress on motor mounts, but I plan on replacing my stock ones when I can.

andrewmp6 Sep 7, 2015 01:05 AM

Honestly i would buy the lift and t case drop and try driving it with out the t case drop.Some people don't need one at 3 inches some do.If you drive it and you feel the rear of the jeep vibrating then put the t case drop on.If you do need it i would save up and replace it with a sye later on,The cheapest sye is a hack and tap that uses a stock xj front driveshaft in the rear.

93_xjcherokee Sep 7, 2015 02:56 AM

If you really want a tc drop, I have a 1-2" drop kit if you want it. I'll throw it in free of charge. You can use it as a 1 inch drop or a 2 inch.

John T Sep 7, 2015 05:51 AM


Originally Posted by 93_xjcherokee (Post 3138409)
If you really want a tc drop, I have a 1-2" drop kit if you want it. I'll throw it in free of charge. You can use it as a 1 inch drop or a 2 inch.

Thanks.


but I already ordered one. :o

John T Sep 7, 2015 06:30 AM

BTW,
I do like the SYE concept... but it'$ just not in the cards right now.

another Q: for my feeble mind,

Why is it the front driveshaft is vibration free and has no need for an SYE?

looks to be the same style as the back... a yolk attached to a driveshaft.... only difference is the front shaft has some sort of slide mechanism built in...

which seems like it wouldn't help any yolk to shaft angle problems...

SteveMongr Sep 7, 2015 06:51 AM

Stock rear shaft is 'single cardan'. One joint at each end, slip shaft is part of the yoke and not the driveshaft.
Stock front shaft is 'double cardan'. Has three u-joints and a slip shaft.
Here are good explanations;
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...08/ujoints.htm
https://grabcad.com/library/double-cardan-joint-1

andrewmp6 Sep 7, 2015 07:38 AM

The driveshafts front and rear are two different styles,The front is a double cardan that has more flex the slip is made in to the shaft and both ends yokes are fixed aka bolted to the axle and the t case.The rear is a single candan solid shaft and has a slip yoke at the t case and a fixed yoke at the axle.The single candan has less flex and when you lift the driveshaft angle gets too steep and causes the vibrations most say you get.A t case drop wll fix that problem but will also change the engine and trans angles which is bad over a long time.And you lose ground clearance with a t case drop so off road you can high center easier or drag the t case on stuff.The reason for a sye you don't lose any ground clearance you get a stronger driveshaft and no vibrations.The hack and tap is the cheapest sye because you cut off the shaft sticking out the t case and tap it for a bolt and bolt a yoke on it.The others make you open the t case to change out the shaft and tail housing on the t case is why they cost more.The hack and tap can be a pain if you don't cut the shaft straight and the shaft is harden so it takes a while to cut off.

John T Sep 7, 2015 07:48 AM


Originally Posted by SteveMongr (Post 3138430)
Stock front shaft is 'double cardan'. Has three u-joints and a slip shaft.

OK.
I just crawled under and took another look.... I looked quick the other day, thought It was a single u joint in front.

Thanks.

John T Sep 7, 2015 07:55 AM

:nerd:

SteveMongr Sep 7, 2015 09:04 AM


Originally Posted by John T (Post 3138440)
OK.
I just crawled under and took another look.... I looked quick the other day, thought It was a single u joint in front.

Thanks.

Look above cross member where drive shaft attaches to transfer case yoke, there are two more joints and a centering ball inside that knuckle.

Fred/N0AZZ Sep 7, 2015 09:42 AM

I answered your other post on this. I did a 3" lift with a 1" TC drop after a year both the engine and trans mounts had to be replaced because of it and I suspect the u-joint as well but not sure on it.


I installed it to be a stopgap measure till the SYE, that I had not long afterward but waited till a lot more was to be done at the same time gears, lockers, more lift, steering, etc.


My fault I knew better and paid the price for it.

John T Sep 7, 2015 09:57 AM


Originally Posted by SteveMongr (Post 3138465)
Look above cross member where drive shaft attaches to transfer case yoke, there are two more joints and a centering ball inside that knuckle.

Yep.

got it.

John T Sep 7, 2015 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ (Post 3138490)
I answered your other post on this. I did a 3" lift with a 1" TC drop after a year both the engine and trans mounts had to be replaced because of it and I suspect the u-joint as well but not sure on it.


I installed it to be a stopgap measure till the SYE, that I had not long afterward but waited till a lot more was to be done at the same time gears, lockers, more lift, steering, etc.


My fault I knew better and paid the price for it.

Thanks.

Yeah,
I guess my hope with this thread was to hear from a bunch of people that said, YES, I have used a TC drop with a 3" lift and it cured all my problems and no Ill effects... :D

still waiting... LOL !

93_xjcherokee Sep 7, 2015 12:20 PM

I know you don't want to hear any negative feedback on this thread but a tc drop changes the angles of everything, hence the reason it puts stress on motor mounts and other components. I know some people are against degree shims without a sye but I have degree shims on the rear diff on mine. Why don't you look into those instead?


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