Ya I'm looking around now and I'm seeing a lot of threads mentioning similar things. I think I'm just going to go with the RC's - they look like they have a lot more cross support than any other lift/drop shackles I'm seeing, and what's $15-20? I mean they're still cheaper than the OEM ones on RA anyway.

From what I'm reading, those Dorman leafs are Upcountry replacements, so 1" over stock, which is perfect. I would be able to get ~2.5" with the coils I already have, the leafs, and the RC drop shackles.

If I can get exactly 2.5" I'll be very happy.....that's.....not what she said....

If I get 2.5" I'll be able to fab up some 1.5-2" front shock extenders up front and then make some BPE's out of the rear sway bar (already removed it, just need to get the bases off when I do the leafs)

I'm going to have to look into bump stops now.

 

Just finished a similar lift on my rig, Moog springs, JK Shocks but I built a bastard pack for the rear.
I have double stacked spring pads in the front and netted 2.5" and got 3" over stock on the rear. Don't forget a longer rear Brake line (I did fronts too) and I needed longer front sway bar links. Alignment shop said they wouldn't bother with the track bar as the axle was only out a hair at 2.5"

 

Good to know man thanks!

The sway bar links are a good idea for me anyway since the sway bar bushings are completely shot up front anyway.

Brake lines are easy peasy.

I will be trimming fenders for sure, I was going back and forth thinking of just maybe lifting higher so I wouldn't have to - but then I'd need longer shocks. I just looked and remembered that I have a decent amount of rust hidden under the front fender flares, though - most of which can be trimmed off, and the rest I can sand down and fix up. So trimming fenders will actually be a good thing for me.

 

The fender flares can be removed to gain a few inches without trimming. Will have to deal with the front fender skirts either way. When the skirts are removed, the inside of fender panels are exposed along with the door hinges.

 

Ya I'm going to tear them off tomorrow and see how bad the rust is up front. Whether I even need the clearance with 31's and a 2.5"-3" lift is kinda whatever if I need to cut the rust out anyway.

I'll either cut and fold the fronts or just say screw it and cut them. I don't like the idea of folding them without welding or using some sort of sealant. Seems like it would just be asking for more rust.

 

Easily fixed by showing a pool noodle into the gap. Works great on mine. I used to get sand and mud everywhere on my door, hinges, and even inside the jeep - couldn't figure out where it was coming from until I realized there was no fender skirt. Found another post where someone took a pool noodle, cut it in half and stuck each half in each fender.... works like a charm.

 

Yup I can definitely see pool noodles doing the trick perfectly. Most forums seem to agree.

I got my front skirts out yesterday - turns out that rust I was seeing was only on the retainer things or whatever they are clipped onto the outside of the fender.

Either way the skirts were falling apart - big chunks had come off already in the past, and there were a few holes right where water can reach the doors.

Pool noodles will be better than what it was that's for sure.

Going to take a wire brush to the inside, as deep as I can, and spray some undercoating as far in as I can, and shove a pool noodle up in there and tie it off.

I'll leave the fender flares on for now until it's actually time to trim, but this will be some of the work.

 

 

It drove surprisingly well considering. But the 4.88 gears and lockers made it unfriendly as a daily driver.

 

I had the same sort of bracket when I was at 3". It tracked fine, but there was a very noticeable amount of bump steer, even on the street. Replaced it with an adjustable track bar (from IRO), and that fixed the issue.