How hard is it to do the hack n tap on a 242? And can I use the front driveshaft like the 231 sye afterwards?

 

Not that "difficult" just time consuming and a bit harrowing because you need to grind the output shaft and its much easier in the vehicle.

For the driveshaft, if you have an automatic trans (aw4), you should be able to re-use the front driveshaft on the rear. My recommendation is use the front shaft as a temporary to check fitment and length, and either get another front shaft from an XJ, or get a longer one from a ZJ or WJ with the Double Cardan front shaft (Mine was from a WJ and was close to 33.5" when centered on the splines). Or order a custom HD shaft from Adams, Tattons, Tom Woods, or any of the other reputable driveshaft builders but wait until you install the SYE and then take measurements, otherwise you are kind of guessing at the length and won't know for sure, especially with a hack n' tap kit.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/zj...angable-90944/

Here is an install overview;

 

Tom woods does make a sye for the np242 btw

 

advanced adapters also makes one--but the they are $500. Lots of people run the h&t with no issues. Not sure if the AA is worth the extra $$

http://www.advanceadapters.com/categ...cess-242j/290/

 

been happy with mine so far.

 

If they do it the same way Tom Wood does, the splined section is completely cut off and then new splines are machined onto the smooth portion of the shaft, gaining about 4". Then the output housing is machined as well and receives a new seal. Interesting that there's no core charge though, due to the dwindling supply of 242 parts (Tom Wood requires you to send your old shaft and housing in to avoid a $400 core charge).

 

I've been putting off doing mine for some time now. I have the parts sitting in the garage but just haven't had the guts to cut my output shaft yet. I think cutting and tapping the output shaft is the hardest part. Some videos I've seen the people take out the transfer case and do it but that's a lot of extra work. It only makes tapping it easier, which could make or break the mod if you don't tap it straight. Cutting the shaft looks easiest while it's still installed and you run it. I was told to run it in reverse when it's being cut.

 

I actually put my old shaft up for free on Craigslist - a guy picked it up in

 

buy the Iron rock offroad drilling jig works great... use a fresh drill bit & tap slow.

 

Have the IRO Hack-n-Tap in my Wagoneer with a NP242, was fairly easy install once I got over the whole got to saw off part of my transfer case fear lol. I'm running a shaft the same length as the factory front shaft, 90 Auto 4.0L.

 

cool


I bought this yoke on the last two I did.....


http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...3103-27CV.html