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2001 XJ Rear Bumper and Rear Quarter Panel Armor solution

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Old 05-21-2015, 02:35 PM
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Default 2001 XJ Rear Bumper and Rear Quarter Panel Armor solution

Hello folks,

I was hoping the forum could answer a few questions I have about upgrading the rear bumper and everything that is associated with that project.

I would like to get a new rear bumper with a tire carrier. I would like to get my spare out of the back. I have a 3" lift and 31" Mickey Thompson ATZs and I have to lay the spare flat on floor in the back for now.

First I took off the silly plastic cover that connects the bumper and the lower rear quarter. The lower rear quarter panels are in good shape, they have no dents or rust.

My questions to the forum are:
1) I was thinking about getting armor for the lower rear quarter. In particular I was thinking about getting http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJ/XJQL.html

The one thing I noticed is that all of the armor pieces I have looked for the 2001 do not wrap around to the edge that faces the wheel that is exposed to wheel road debris etc... Are there any ones out there that do? The plastic part at the very least provides a little protection from the elements. I live in MI and the salt is a huge issue. I want to provide as much protection as possible.

I'm not interested in cutting that portion off or folding it under or anything like that.

2) Since I will no longer have the plastic bumper part that wraps around to the wheel well, the fender flare comes up a little short. Can the 84 to 96 rear fender flares be swapped onto a 97 to 2001? Are there any aftermarket fender flares that DON'T require cutting around that will cover that exposed area?

I looked at a bunch of aftermarket flares that want you to cut, cut, cut. I'm not interested in cutting my Jeep. Cutting just lends itself to rust.

3) I'm looking at getting a Smittybilt XRC bumper with a tire carrier. http://www.smittybilt.com/product/index/149.htm

Any opinions on using this bumper? I rather like the tire carrier option on this bumper

4) Installing the bumper: I have a Cherokee Sport that came with the towing package. It looks like there are already some bolts in the 'frame rail' to hold the existing trailer hitch in place. It looks like the closest to the front there are two bolts hanging down (on each side) with corresponding nuts (18mm) hanging down and I should have no problem getting those out. The other two fastening points on the frame rails closest to the bumper are bolts that are held in with captured nuts? in the frame rail. One is broken off on one side. My question is this. I know that the when upgrading the bumper they usually come with a new nut strip to secure the new bumper. Will the nut strip work or will I have to remove the other fasteners (captured nuts) that are in the frame rail? What about the bolts hanging down, where those put in with the mechanics wire trick?

Thanks a lot.

Andy

Last edited by dacutty; 05-21-2015 at 02:39 PM.
Old 05-22-2015, 12:10 AM
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That rear bumper comes with the lower armor pieces and the nut strips,Here is a nice install if you want to read it http://gunscarstech.com/2015/01/03/s...-installation/ And on the aftermarket fender flares if you paint the sheet metal you cut it won't rust.
Old 05-22-2015, 08:22 AM
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Thank you so much for that link. That will be very helpful if I decide to get that bumper. Its a very detailed write up, the guy seems a bit whiny though. lol.
I saw in the instruction manual that the bumper comes with nut strips and the armor. The only problem is I like the JCR armor better because it has the part towards the wheel well that mimics the factory fender flare (i.e. its specific to a 97-2001 Cherokee).

Some of the nut strips I have seen online utilize more fasteners or all of the factory frame rail holes. What is shown on the link you provided and what is shown in the instructions differ a bit. I would have to see what they actually sent and go from there.

With that write up link that you sent they guy said he couldn't use a gas tank skid plate. I already have one on my Jeep. I don't see how that would be an issue with the bumper brackets. Any thoughts there?

Regarding the sheet metal comment, there is no way a simple rattle can of paint would stop rust. Not here in MI where they spray brine on the roads in the winter. They go a little crazy with the salt here especially in the Detroit area. I'm going to try to find some fender flare solution, and a lower quarter armor solution that adds protection without creating a target for rust. I just need some research and ideas.

Last edited by dacutty; 05-22-2015 at 08:29 AM.
Old 05-22-2015, 08:37 AM
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With My JCR gas tank skid and nut strips I had to drill 2 new holes in the trailer hitch, the bolt pattern was slightly different. JCR also makes lower quarter armor that integrates "bolts to" their bumpers, prevents obstacles from getting between your bumper and body. Having now taken a look at those brackets on the Smitty, I can see how the bolts could be precisely lined up and the bracket could interfere with a skid install. You could always modify the skid and partially weld to the bumper bracket.
Old 05-22-2015, 01:19 PM
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I'm pretty sure the Smittybilt no longer includes the guards. They weren't much protection anyway. The last set I saw were folded up under with the rest of the sheet metal. They don't included them in the specs or the pictures we get for the site.

If you decide to go with the SB bumper though shoot me a PM and I should be able to save you a bit on the price.

http://www.rocksolidor.com/Smittybil...-p/sb76851.htm

We will have the JCR stuff soon but I haven't gotten a definite date yet.
Old 05-23-2015, 01:57 AM
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On the sheet metal rattle can the outside and under coating on the inside should seal it up best it can be.
Old 05-24-2015, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dacutty
Thank you so much for that link. That will be very helpful if I decide to get that bumper. Its a very detailed write up, the guy seems a bit whiny though. lol.
I saw in the instruction manual that the bumper comes with nut strips and the armor. The only problem is I like the JCR armor better because it has the part towards the wheel well that mimics the factory fender flare (i.e. its specific to a 97-2001 Cherokee).

Some of the nut strips I have seen online utilize more fasteners or all of the factory frame rail holes. What is shown on the link you provided and what is shown in the instructions differ a bit. I would have to see what they actually sent and go from there.

With that write up link that you sent they guy said he couldn't use a gas tank skid plate. I already have one on my Jeep. I don't see how that would be an issue with the bumper brackets. Any thoughts there?

Regarding the sheet metal comment, there is no way a simple rattle can of paint would stop rust. Not here in MI where they spray brine on the roads in the winter. They go a little crazy with the salt here especially in the Detroit area. I'm going to try to find some fender flare solution, and a lower quarter armor solution that adds protection without creating a target for rust. I just need some research and ideas.
Just a thought from fellow salt belter...you can cut then prime with POR15 and paint over that with rattle can. Then use underbody coating if you like but only after the prime and paint. I cut for bushwhackers a few years ago and have had no rust with that combo. Driving in CT, Mass and Maine..Maine uses the brine crap too. Weirdest is Vermont, they use brine from the cheese factory's waste water so you smell cheese after they spray.
Old 05-24-2015, 10:07 PM
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Brine from the cheese, huuaaah!

Thanks for the reply. I have discovered the POR15. Great stuff. I have already coated some spots under my Cherokee.
Old 05-29-2015, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dacutty
Brine from the cheese, huuaaah!

Thanks for the reply. I have discovered the POR15. Great stuff. I have already coated some spots under my Cherokee.
Look at the Detours rear bumper. It wraps around and is serious quality stuff..
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