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1992 XJ Overheating... (SOLVED)
Hello everyone. I know there are many similar topics... I've read them all, and I've been working on this issue for a year without finding a solution. By the way, I'm writing from Turkey, my English is weak, so I will proceed using translation. Thank you in advance for your understanding.
First, let me tell you about my vehicle; 1992 Jeep XJ Limited 4.0L High Output 6" Lift 32x11.5 R15 Tires Standart 3.55 Axle Ratio(Rear 8.25, Front Dana 30) During the summer months only, my vehicle runs at around 215F in city driving and between 230F on over 50mph highways and uphill drives. Below, I list all the procedures I have undertaken. It doesn't drop below 210F with the ac off. 1-New Waterpump (GSP WP900091) 2-New Thermostat (Motorad 160F-195F/I tried both of them. I drilled 1/8 holes towards 12 o'clock on both of them. Beforehand, I conducted a hot water test using a thermometer.) 3-New Electrical Fan(Crown 9 wings, 97-01) (I have checked my electric fan many times, it works on time. In addition, I made a switch inside.) 4-New ZJ HD Fan Clutch 5-New Serpentine Belt 6-New Radiator Cap 16ps (Motorad) 7-Despite my old radiator being perfectly clean, the new radiator (NRF50321) 8-I cleaned out the cooling channels in the engine, they are spotless. I also replaced the heater core and i applied a 50/50 mixture. I purged the air 9-New Radiator Hoses. (Lower hoses with spring) 10-I gave up on the transmission cooler on the radiator and bought a new, large transmission cooler. 11-Lastly, we decided to replace the cylinder head gasket. When we removed the cover, the gasket was intact. We conducted a crack test on the cover, and no cracks were found. While dismantling, we renewed and restored all components on the cylinder head. 12-I took off everything in front of my car that could block the wind. I washed the radiator and AC condensers fins, cleaned between them, air flow is very good. By the way, I measured all cooling components of my vehicle with an IR thermometer. Thinking the gauge might be inaccurate, I also used a different temperature sensor and gauge. I'm listing the readings I took during the measurement; Dash gauge: 212-215F Thermostat house: 210F Upper Hose: 203F Lower Hose: 182F When I tried measuring around the sensor located behind the cylinder head, it was around 170-195F degrees. The numbers averaged out like this. By the way does not leak water, I have checked it many times.Despite these efforts, we haven't made any progress. This situation has really worn me down in every way... Please, someone help because I feel like I'm going crazy. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...9e94329281.jpg This is my car... |
I too
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f508ae8aa.jpeg have a “93”,and the temperature reading you have are similar to mine. I’d say quit worrying about it and just enjoy your XJ. Nice ride, by the way here is my Jeep |
:laughing: i guess, i have no choice...
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How old is the catalytic converter? One that's getting clogged can cause the engine to run hot...
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Originally Posted by Jim Malcolm
(Post 3719233)
How old is the catalytic converter? One that's getting clogged can cause the engine to run hot...
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It appears that your gauge may be as much as 20F higher than reality. Upon starting up from cold, it should sit at the thermostat temperature, 195F, for a bit until the radiator and the rest of the coolant get up to temp. Have you looked for that "pause" and compared it to the thermostat? Does the gauge read 220F when the fan kicks on? What's the air temperature?
Have you added a short piece of wire from the metal structure of the dash over to the kick panel? The dash in these XJs is only grounded through the mounting bolts. 50/50 mix is good for down to -32C. You can run as low as 30% coolant, which will protect down to -12C, while transferring heat better. There's also products like Water Wetter. Always use distilled water. 3.55s and 32s doesn't help any... |
Originally Posted by Jim Malcolm
(Post 3719236)
It appears that your gauge may be as much as 20F higher than reality. Upon starting up from cold, it should sit at the thermostat temperature, 195F, for a bit until the radiator and the rest of the coolant get up to temp. Have you looked for that "pause" and compared it to the thermostat? Does the gauge read 220F when the fan kicks on? What's the air temperature?
Have you added a short piece of wire from the metal structure of the dash over to the kick panel? The dash in these XJs is only grounded through the mounting bolts. 50/50 mix is good for down to -32C. You can run as low as 30% coolant, which will protect down to -12C, while transferring heat better. There's also products like Water Wetter. Always use distilled water. 3.55s and 32s doesn't help any... Let's come to what you mentioned about the wire process... I haven't heard of such a thing before. yes, the sensor behind the cylinder head is a single-plug sensor and it grounds directly from the mounting bolt. Should i try this? Why not? I'll try it at the first opportunity :icon_lol: By the way, right after solving the overheating issue, I'm thinking of switching to the 33-4.56 combination. I've got the parts, but haven't had the chance to install them yet. |
Hello again, unfortunately the last cable work you mentioned didn't work. I was already sure that my gauge was showing correctly, but I wanted to try it in case there was a fluctuation.
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I guess there is no solution... no matter what I do, it doesn't work. It's hard to accept that these cars have a chronic overheating problem.
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How is your air flow through the radiator? My temperatures dropped significantly once I installed a splash shield which provided better air flow through the radiator.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/4-...5/#post3718316 |
Sorry, my english is not very good. You mean a fan shroud?
Airflow is good, i cleaned my A/C condenser and the fins of my radiator. In addition, i have a severe duty zj fan clutch. Today i discovered a new leak in my radiator, so i ordered an new one. I also bought a medicine to clean the coolant, Rislone. After cleaning it with the medicine, I will install my new radiator and test it. , So far I think that the coolant cleaning done in the stores did not work and that there is something wrong with my water flow. Because when I rev up(3000-4000rpm) in parked N gear, my engine does not cool down. When I move at 60-65mph on the highway, I don't see any drop in the wind. Finally, as I mentioned in my first sentence, if what you want to say is the fan shroud, I would like you to know that I have ordered a new one. Until now, I thought the one installed on my vehicle was original, but after researching, I have not seen it on any XJ. I am sharing an image for the current situation. The fan shroud I've seen on other XJs is a bit bigger and covers the top of the wings. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6ca09d7311.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ab207759f0.jpg |
No, I mean the part that covers the bottom of the engine.
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologie...ield-10-clips/ |
Originally Posted by WillyXJ
(Post 3719812)
No, I mean the part that covers the bottom of the engine.
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologie...ield-10-clips/ |
I have a '99 with a stock cooling system, e-fan on a switch and hood vents, I can drive around town with the ac on, in 90+ degree temps no problem, but when I'm driving steep mountain roads at 4000'+ elevation, in 80+ degree temps
it will go up to 225 and stay there. I don't trust the factory temp gauge, mine is 10-20 degrees off, I installed a mechanical temp gauge. XJ's run hot, I think hood vents and a switched e-fan makes a difference, as long as your cooling system is working properly |
Originally Posted by PJB
(Post 3719821)
I have a '99 with a stock cooling system, e-fan on a switch and hood vents, I can drive around town with the ac on, in 90+ degree temps no problem, but when I'm driving steep mountain roads at 4000'+ elevation, in 80+ degree temps
it will go up to 225 and stay there. I don't trust the factory temp gauge, mine is 10-20 degrees off, I installed a mechanical temp gauge. XJ's run hot, I think hood vents and a switched e-fan makes a difference, as long as your cooling system is working properly |
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