15x7 ecco wheels
01-14-2014, 02:55 PM
#1
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15x7 ecco wheels
Any one know is the 15x7 ecco wheel will have much rubbing with a 32x11.50 tire and no spacers? I know that front will some at full lock but not sure about the rear.
Thanks
Thanks
01-15-2014, 04:48 PM
#6
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mine rub at full lock on front with 31 10.50's the back looks like they would rub if the tire was flat or i was running low pressure. i have stock 99 ecco's
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01-15-2014, 09:13 PM
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01-15-2014, 09:18 PM
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01-15-2014, 09:50 PM
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Three things. It's a LOT different than running non-directional radial tires backwards.
1) They won't seat properly. Just because your torque wrench says 9000 lb-ft doesn't mean the surfaces are mating in a way that transfer force in a manner that will bear load... it just means you can't make the nut any tighter.
2) You have less thread engagement. You realize this guy has big fat aluminum rims, right? To be safe, lug nuts need something like 3/4"-1" of thread to spin on to to prevent from just flying off or snapping the studs.
3) In addition to force not being transferred through a nice big flat surface between the rotor/drum and the back of the rim (and spaced our further due to the curvature of the rim, see #1), your rims are not centered, which means you cannot be hub-centric and are now off-center lug-centric. This is why ****ty wheel spacers snap lug nuts.
If you've ever looked at rims and lug nuts (I'm guessing not...) the taper on the open end of the nut fits a matching taper at the hole in the rim. This is used to center the rim - as you tighten the nuts it becomes perfectly aligned. This allows for the maximum clamping force between the rim and brake surface, which in turn allows force to be transferred between rim and axle assembly.
The problem is way more severe on any alloy rim than it is on steel. On any Jeep alloys you don't have a hope in hell of getting the lug nuts to even spin on with the rims reversed. Even on steel there are plenty of stamped patterns that prevent a proper installation.
Get real rims before you hurt yourself or someone else.
1) They won't seat properly. Just because your torque wrench says 9000 lb-ft doesn't mean the surfaces are mating in a way that transfer force in a manner that will bear load... it just means you can't make the nut any tighter.
2) You have less thread engagement. You realize this guy has big fat aluminum rims, right? To be safe, lug nuts need something like 3/4"-1" of thread to spin on to to prevent from just flying off or snapping the studs.
3) In addition to force not being transferred through a nice big flat surface between the rotor/drum and the back of the rim (and spaced our further due to the curvature of the rim, see #1), your rims are not centered, which means you cannot be hub-centric and are now off-center lug-centric. This is why ****ty wheel spacers snap lug nuts.
If you've ever looked at rims and lug nuts (I'm guessing not...) the taper on the open end of the nut fits a matching taper at the hole in the rim. This is used to center the rim - as you tighten the nuts it becomes perfectly aligned. This allows for the maximum clamping force between the rim and brake surface, which in turn allows force to be transferred between rim and axle assembly.
The problem is way more severe on any alloy rim than it is on steel. On any Jeep alloys you don't have a hope in hell of getting the lug nuts to even spin on with the rims reversed. Even on steel there are plenty of stamped patterns that prevent a proper installation.
Get real rims before you hurt yourself or someone else.
01-15-2014, 09:55 PM
#13
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Three things. It's a LOT different than running non-directional radial tires backwards.
1) They won't seat properly. Just because your torque wrench says 9000 lb-ft doesn't mean the surfaces are mating in a way that transfer force in a manner that will bear load... it just means you can't make the nut any tighter.
2) You have less thread engagement. You realize this guy has big fat aluminum rims, right? To be safe, lug nuts need something like 3/4"-1" of thread to spin on to to prevent from just flying off or snapping the studs.
3) In addition to force not being transferred through a nice big flat surface between the rotor/drum and the back of the rim (and spaced our further due to the curvature of the rim, see #1), your rims are not centered, which means you cannot be hub-centric and are now off-center lug-centric. This is why ****ty wheel spacers snap lug nuts.
If you've ever looked at rims and lug nuts (I'm guessing not...) the taper on the open end of the nut fits a matching taper at the hole in the rim. This is used to center the rim - as you tighten the nuts it becomes perfectly aligned. This allows for the maximum clamping force between the rim and brake surface, which in turn allows force to be transferred between rim and axle assembly.
The problem is way more severe on any alloy rim than it is on steel. On any Jeep alloys you don't have a hope in hell of getting the lug nuts to even spin on with the rims reversed. Even on steel there are plenty of stamped patterns that prevent a proper installation.
Get real rims before you hurt yourself or someone else.
1) They won't seat properly. Just because your torque wrench says 9000 lb-ft doesn't mean the surfaces are mating in a way that transfer force in a manner that will bear load... it just means you can't make the nut any tighter.
2) You have less thread engagement. You realize this guy has big fat aluminum rims, right? To be safe, lug nuts need something like 3/4"-1" of thread to spin on to to prevent from just flying off or snapping the studs.
3) In addition to force not being transferred through a nice big flat surface between the rotor/drum and the back of the rim (and spaced our further due to the curvature of the rim, see #1), your rims are not centered, which means you cannot be hub-centric and are now off-center lug-centric. This is why ****ty wheel spacers snap lug nuts.
If you've ever looked at rims and lug nuts (I'm guessing not...) the taper on the open end of the nut fits a matching taper at the hole in the rim. This is used to center the rim - as you tighten the nuts it becomes perfectly aligned. This allows for the maximum clamping force between the rim and brake surface, which in turn allows force to be transferred between rim and axle assembly.
The problem is way more severe on any alloy rim than it is on steel. On any Jeep alloys you don't have a hope in hell of getting the lug nuts to even spin on with the rims reversed. Even on steel there are plenty of stamped patterns that prevent a proper installation.
Get real rims before you hurt yourself or someone else.
. It would be a better investment to just get different offset wheels instead of buying spacers. 
01-15-2014, 10:25 PM
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