Which year to build?
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Joined: Feb 2015
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Model: Cherokee
Which year to build?
Hi All,
New member here-just signed up. So I'm thinking about getting into this hobby and buying an XJ to build. I've thought about buying one from davisautosports.com (they make some really nice XJ's!) but I'd rather build it myself because there's no better way to understand and know your vehicle than building it yourself! Plus, I'm sure it's far less expensive to build it myself.
I understand that some years are better than others-different/better axles, transmissions, etc...
If I were looking for a basic XJ to buy and build, what year(s) should I look for and why?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
Mark
New member here-just signed up. So I'm thinking about getting into this hobby and buying an XJ to build. I've thought about buying one from davisautosports.com (they make some really nice XJ's!) but I'd rather build it myself because there's no better way to understand and know your vehicle than building it yourself! Plus, I'm sure it's far less expensive to build it myself.
I understand that some years are better than others-different/better axles, transmissions, etc...
If I were looking for a basic XJ to buy and build, what year(s) should I look for and why?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
Mark
Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 12
From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
I would look for a 97- 99
99 was the best year for the XJ I think.
The 2000 and 2001 had the bad 0331 head that crack from a casting defect that can crack between cylinders 3-4., so try to stay away from those years. But dont let that get in the way.
If the 00 or 01 had good cooling maintenance over its years it should be ok. But it will crack in time or it wont. Its a real gamble with the 0331 head.
Mine crack on the 2000, I took great care of it and it still went.
So I won the 0331 head crack lottery.
The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor.
00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30.
High pinion is on any 99 Xj down I think??
The 96 is a transition year which makes parts a pain in the butt to get. Some bits are from older XJs, some from newer, and some parts are actually unique just to 1996s.
Welcome To CF also..
99 was the best year for the XJ I think.
The 2000 and 2001 had the bad 0331 head that crack from a casting defect that can crack between cylinders 3-4., so try to stay away from those years. But dont let that get in the way.
If the 00 or 01 had good cooling maintenance over its years it should be ok. But it will crack in time or it wont. Its a real gamble with the 0331 head.
Mine crack on the 2000, I took great care of it and it still went.
So I won the 0331 head crack lottery.
The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor.
00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30.
High pinion is on any 99 Xj down I think??
The 96 is a transition year which makes parts a pain in the butt to get. Some bits are from older XJs, some from newer, and some parts are actually unique just to 1996s.
Welcome To CF also..
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 974
Likes: 14
From: Racine, WI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is not one single year I would avoid. I even love 84-86 and know exactly what kind of fun I'd have with one of those (Buick 3800 swap eventually).
P.S. I had a 96 and never had a single problem finding parts. Mine was built early on in August of 95, but I still think the whole "transition year" thing is way overblown. How can people pretend like there is a hair-tuggingly frustrating difference between 95 and 97 when there's hardly any impenetrable differences between 1987 and 1999? Yeah, there are differences, but they don't require one to be a rocket scientist to know and cope with them. Something to be aware of, sure, but the idea that someone would even consider avoiding 96 because it is a "transition year" is absolutely absurd to me. I feel the same way about the 0331 head thing as well--I'd be aware of it, but I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on a really nice 00/01.
It would be easier to know what advice to give you personally if we knew what your build plans are. For example, if your build plan includes on putting it on tons, what axles a particular year comes with is completely irrelevant and doesn't need to be considered.
Guys whose only advice to you is "buy a 99" aren't really helping you much. Some of them just blindly regurgitate that because they read it somewhere when researching Jeeps, and they don't even know why. There are some reasons that 99 is a particularly favored year, but it might be that NONE of them matter to YOU. I mean, what do you want to do with your Cherokee? Is it just going to be a daily driver? Will you wheel it? If so, how often? How hard? What kind (mud, sand, rocks)? Are there any particular modifications/upgrades you'd want to do to it?
I think some people's obsession with 99 is a bit disrespectful to how great all the other XJ's are. Even the 00 and 01 XJ's are worthy of respect that is often denied to them by many. You really can't lose. Many minor and some major changes were made between 84 and 01. I'm sure you can find a list of all the changes out there somewhere; I know I found that info myself once upon a time.
Aside from the normal stuff to look out for with ANY used car, be aware that 84-86 XJ's had GM engines that pale in comparison to the 4.0 of 87-01 (I'm just ignoring the 4 cyl engines that some XJ's had). The pre-91 Renix systems are a bit ... "special" and simply something to be aware of and ready to work with if you're looking at one. 00-01 4.0's have a head with a casting flaw that may or may not crack between cyl 3 and 4. Many of them never crack (or at least haven't after hundreds of thousands of miles), but many do. It's something to watch-out for but not something that should keep you away completely, and you should be aware that identical heads without the casting flaw are out there should you have a crack. The manual trannies are solid as are the autos. The two possible transfer cases are both great. There are a variety of rear ends each with their own advantages and disadvantages, and unless you're planning on doing lots of wheeling, even the weakest of the bunch (D35) will be just peachy. The floor pans are easily the most susceptible to rust on all years. Because of the limited space for a radiator, XJ's are just barely able to maintain their operating temperature, so you have very little room to slack on maintaining the cooling system; luckily the cooling system is a reliable as any other part of the 4.0, so it's not likely to require much work (and any work will be relatively cheap). The stock exhaust manifold cracks easily which can impact the performance and efficiency of your engine negatively. APN makes a replacement header that is a very affordable replacement should you ever need/want one (there are other header options out there as well).
It is my opinion that if you get an XJ with a 4.0 from 91-99, you have virtually nothing but cheap regular maintenance to worry about. If you get an 00 or 01, you just have to make sure to never overheat it (as if you'd ever be OK with overheating any engine), and to pay closer attention to the oil and coolant "health."
I think some people's obsession with 99 is a bit disrespectful to how great all the other XJ's are. Even the 00 and 01 XJ's are worthy of respect that is often denied to them by many. You really can't lose. Many minor and some major changes were made between 84 and 01. I'm sure you can find a list of all the changes out there somewhere; I know I found that info myself once upon a time.
Aside from the normal stuff to look out for with ANY used car, be aware that 84-86 XJ's had GM engines that pale in comparison to the 4.0 of 87-01 (I'm just ignoring the 4 cyl engines that some XJ's had). The pre-91 Renix systems are a bit ... "special" and simply something to be aware of and ready to work with if you're looking at one. 00-01 4.0's have a head with a casting flaw that may or may not crack between cyl 3 and 4. Many of them never crack (or at least haven't after hundreds of thousands of miles), but many do. It's something to watch-out for but not something that should keep you away completely, and you should be aware that identical heads without the casting flaw are out there should you have a crack. The manual trannies are solid as are the autos. The two possible transfer cases are both great. There are a variety of rear ends each with their own advantages and disadvantages, and unless you're planning on doing lots of wheeling, even the weakest of the bunch (D35) will be just peachy. The floor pans are easily the most susceptible to rust on all years. Because of the limited space for a radiator, XJ's are just barely able to maintain their operating temperature, so you have very little room to slack on maintaining the cooling system; luckily the cooling system is a reliable as any other part of the 4.0, so it's not likely to require much work (and any work will be relatively cheap). The stock exhaust manifold cracks easily which can impact the performance and efficiency of your engine negatively. APN makes a replacement header that is a very affordable replacement should you ever need/want one (there are other header options out there as well).
It is my opinion that if you get an XJ with a 4.0 from 91-99, you have virtually nothing but cheap regular maintenance to worry about. If you get an 00 or 01, you just have to make sure to never overheat it (as if you'd ever be OK with overheating any engine), and to pay closer attention to the oil and coolant "health."
P.S. I had a 96 and never had a single problem finding parts. Mine was built early on in August of 95, but I still think the whole "transition year" thing is way overblown. How can people pretend like there is a hair-tuggingly frustrating difference between 95 and 97 when there's hardly any impenetrable differences between 1987 and 1999? Yeah, there are differences, but they don't require one to be a rocket scientist to know and cope with them. Something to be aware of, sure, but the idea that someone would even consider avoiding 96 because it is a "transition year" is absolutely absurd to me. I feel the same way about the 0331 head thing as well--I'd be aware of it, but I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on a really nice 00/01.
It would be easier to know what advice to give you personally if we knew what your build plans are. For example, if your build plan includes on putting it on tons, what axles a particular year comes with is completely irrelevant and doesn't need to be considered.
Last edited by mschi772; Feb 28, 2015 at 03:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2015
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Model: Cherokee
"What do I plan to do with it" is a good question.
I'm not how "off-road" you would call what I want to do, but I'm mostly interested in trail riding and 'light' off road, some mudding, some shallow (1 foot?) water crossing, etc... I would like and need 'some' articulation, but I don't need it to be extreme as I'm not going to be crawling over anything too major!
What I'm NOT interested at all in is rock crawling, extreme hard core off-road, etc... I know "hard-core" is relative and different to different people.
I will need to drive this Jeep to the Off-road parks here in Michigan. So it can't be an extreme dedicated off-road jeep that needs trailered. I'll also go out and have fun during the many snow storms we get here in the winter.
Here are two pictures of how I'd like to build my Jeep. I know the white one has a 4.5" lift, not sure about the blue one.
Would you rather have a 1999 with 175,000 miles, or a 2001 with 85,000?
I'm not how "off-road" you would call what I want to do, but I'm mostly interested in trail riding and 'light' off road, some mudding, some shallow (1 foot?) water crossing, etc... I would like and need 'some' articulation, but I don't need it to be extreme as I'm not going to be crawling over anything too major!
What I'm NOT interested at all in is rock crawling, extreme hard core off-road, etc... I know "hard-core" is relative and different to different people.
I will need to drive this Jeep to the Off-road parks here in Michigan. So it can't be an extreme dedicated off-road jeep that needs trailered. I'll also go out and have fun during the many snow storms we get here in the winter.
Here are two pictures of how I'd like to build my Jeep. I know the white one has a 4.5" lift, not sure about the blue one.
Would you rather have a 1999 with 175,000 miles, or a 2001 with 85,000?
Last edited by s10sakota; Feb 28, 2015 at 03:49 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 417
Likes: 1
From: Hickory, NC
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
The best advice I can give you when searching is to end up buying the best overall package. Each year has its pros and cons. I would choose the one in the best condition with the setup you want, whether it be bone stock for you to build or one with some basic mods and you can put the final touches on. Things like previous owner keeping maintenance records, etc. are also good to look for. Based on the two you posted its safe to assume you're down south so rust isn't an issue like it is for us in the rust belt.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
I appreciate the advice. Actually I'm in Detroit where I believe the auto makes pay the gov't to put extra salt down so the cars rust away quicker.
The two pics I posted where Jeeps that Davis Auto Sports built. I got the pics from their website.
The two pics I posted where Jeeps that Davis Auto Sports built. I got the pics from their website.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 417
Likes: 1
From: Hickory, NC
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Good to know you feel my pain with rust then! I'll add to pay extra attention to the underneath of any you look at for signs of rust. What may not look "too" bad can become a PITA very quickly.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 974
Likes: 14
From: Racine, WI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I don't obsess over mileage. An 85k mile vehicle could have sat without being used for years or it could have been poorly cared for while a 175k mile vehicle could have been cared for extraordinarily. The real problem is that you'll never know. People are idiots; people lie. That's why I ask as many questions about its history as I can and judge to the best of my ability if I'm getting quality/honest answers, but I always go over the vehicle myself meticulously and judge it as it is at that moment using my own knowledge and experience (if you don't have the ability to do this, bring someone who IS an expert). I trust my own senses WAY more than I trust some seller's claims/stories.
::CF Administrator::
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
I would look for a 97- 99
99 was the best year for the XJ I think.
The 2000 and 2001 had the bad 0331 head that crack from a casting defect that can crack between cylinders 3-4., so try to stay away from those years. But dont let that get in the way.
If the 00 or 01 had good cooling maintenance over its years it should be ok. But it will crack in time or it wont. Its a real gamble with the 0331 head.
Mine crack on the 2000, I took great care of it and it still went.
So I won the 0331 head crack lottery.
The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor.
00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30.
High pinion is on any 99 Xj down I think??
The 96 is a transition year which makes parts a pain in the butt to get. Some bits are from older XJs, some from newer, and some parts are actually unique just to 1996s.
Welcome To CF also..
99 was the best year for the XJ I think.
The 2000 and 2001 had the bad 0331 head that crack from a casting defect that can crack between cylinders 3-4., so try to stay away from those years. But dont let that get in the way.
If the 00 or 01 had good cooling maintenance over its years it should be ok. But it will crack in time or it wont. Its a real gamble with the 0331 head.
Mine crack on the 2000, I took great care of it and it still went.
So I won the 0331 head crack lottery.
The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor.
00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30.
High pinion is on any 99 Xj down I think??
The 96 is a transition year which makes parts a pain in the butt to get. Some bits are from older XJs, some from newer, and some parts are actually unique just to 1996s.
Welcome To CF also..
There is not one single year I would avoid. I even love 84-86 and know exactly what kind of fun I'd have with one of those (Buick 3800 swap eventually).
P.S. I had a 96 and never had a single problem finding parts. Mine was built early on in August of 95, but I still think the whole "transition year" thing is way overblown. How can people pretend like there is a hair-tuggingly frustrating difference between 95 and 97 when there's hardly any impenetrable differences between 1987 and 1999? Yeah, there are differences, but they don't require one to be a rocket scientist to know and cope with them. Something to be aware of, sure, but the idea that someone would even consider avoiding 96 because it is a "transition year" is absolutely absurd to me. I feel the same way about the 0331 head thing as well--I'd be aware of it, but I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on a really nice 00/01.
It would be easier to know what advice to give you personally if we knew what your build plans are. For example, if your build plan includes on putting it on tons, what axles a particular year comes with is completely irrelevant and doesn't need to be considered.
P.S. I had a 96 and never had a single problem finding parts. Mine was built early on in August of 95, but I still think the whole "transition year" thing is way overblown. How can people pretend like there is a hair-tuggingly frustrating difference between 95 and 97 when there's hardly any impenetrable differences between 1987 and 1999? Yeah, there are differences, but they don't require one to be a rocket scientist to know and cope with them. Something to be aware of, sure, but the idea that someone would even consider avoiding 96 because it is a "transition year" is absolutely absurd to me. I feel the same way about the 0331 head thing as well--I'd be aware of it, but I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on a really nice 00/01.
It would be easier to know what advice to give you personally if we knew what your build plans are. For example, if your build plan includes on putting it on tons, what axles a particular year comes with is completely irrelevant and doesn't need to be considered.
Last edited by Rogue4x4; Feb 28, 2015 at 04:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
AS I search autotrader for Jeeps, it seems like all the nice ones are 2001 models.
Excuse my ignorance, but two items have been mentioned and I don't know what that really means in the real world...
"The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor"
What's the issue with a coil rail instead of the cap and rotor. Is this something that can be changed? Does it offer less performance? Harder to tune?
Also, "00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30"
If we are talking about gears, I'm pretty sure if I built the Jeep I'd have to change the gearing anyway for larger tires right? So does it really matter what gears come with the Jeep? Or are we talking about different gear boxes or axels?
These might be dumb questions, but I don't have a lot of experience on auto maintenance-just about 25 years of aircraft maintenance tho!
Luckily I have friends with garages and tons of experience that can help me build the Jeep!
Excuse my ignorance, but two items have been mentioned and I don't know what that really means in the real world...
"The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor"
What's the issue with a coil rail instead of the cap and rotor. Is this something that can be changed? Does it offer less performance? Harder to tune?
Also, "00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30"
If we are talking about gears, I'm pretty sure if I built the Jeep I'd have to change the gearing anyway for larger tires right? So does it really matter what gears come with the Jeep? Or are we talking about different gear boxes or axels?
These might be dumb questions, but I don't have a lot of experience on auto maintenance-just about 25 years of aircraft maintenance tho!
Luckily I have friends with garages and tons of experience that can help me build the Jeep!
::CF Administrator::
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
AS I search autotrader for Jeeps, it seems like all the nice ones are 2001 models.
Excuse my ignorance, but two items have been mentioned and I don't know what that really means in the real world...
"The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor"
What's the issue with a coil rail instead of the cap and rotor. Is this something that can be changed? Does it offer less performance? Harder to tune?
Also, "00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30"
If we are talking about gears, I'm pretty sure if I built the Jeep I'd have to change the gearing anyway for larger tires right? So does it really matter what gears come with the Jeep? Or are we talking about different gear boxes or axels?
These might be dumb questions, but I don't have a lot of experience on auto maintenance-just about 25 years of aircraft maintenance tho!
Luckily I have friends with garages and tons of experience that can help me build the Jeep!
Excuse my ignorance, but two items have been mentioned and I don't know what that really means in the real world...
"The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor"
What's the issue with a coil rail instead of the cap and rotor. Is this something that can be changed? Does it offer less performance? Harder to tune?
Also, "00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30"
If we are talking about gears, I'm pretty sure if I built the Jeep I'd have to change the gearing anyway for larger tires right? So does it really matter what gears come with the Jeep? Or are we talking about different gear boxes or axels?
These might be dumb questions, but I don't have a lot of experience on auto maintenance-just about 25 years of aircraft maintenance tho!
Luckily I have friends with garages and tons of experience that can help me build the Jeep!
The difference in the LP D30 and the HP D30, is the reverse cut gears. If buying an XJ from 00-01, you will get the LP D30. Depending on what you wish to do with it, like tire size, the HP D30 is good to go up to 35" tires with 4.88 gearing. Any larger and you'll wanna upgrade.
My .02
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 417
Likes: 1
From: Hickory, NC
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Coil rails in and of themselves aren't necessarily a bad thing, just they were introduced late in the XJ's lifespan. An early tech item in an otherwise older system, some like it, some don't. I have heard that sometimes the rail can develop cracks and cause misfires, but I have no real world experience with this: I own a 97. So I suppose some of that is here-say. Chock it up to the proven distributor system vs. a coil rail in the last 2 years of life span of the XJ. You'll get lovers and haters on both sides.
The difference in the LP D30 and the HP D30, is the reverse cut gears. If buying an XJ from 00-01, you will get the LP D30. Depending on what you wish to do with it, like tire size, the HP D30 is good to go up to 35" tires with 4.88 gearing. Any larger and you'll wanna upgrade.
My .02
The difference in the LP D30 and the HP D30, is the reverse cut gears. If buying an XJ from 00-01, you will get the LP D30. Depending on what you wish to do with it, like tire size, the HP D30 is good to go up to 35" tires with 4.88 gearing. Any larger and you'll wanna upgrade.
My .02
I have a 2001 with the coil rail and I prefer it. I've never had any issues with both 2001 XJs that I've had. Ease of maintenance is a huge plus. Don't have to worry about wires, cap & rotor, etc.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7
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Model: Cherokee
Again thanks for the replies! I just found online what appears to be a very nice light blue '99 about two hours from me for only $2,400 obo. It does have 230,000 miles but geez a Jeep that cheap give me lots of budget to build and buy a lot of new parts!
I'll keep you guys posted
I'll keep you guys posted
::CF Administrator::
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
To be honest, I wouldn't mind having one. Makes complete sense.