I'm going to be gone for the winter an my jeep is goin be parked from January to July is there anything I should do to it to make it start better and should I leave the gas tank full or empty? Does it not mater and I'm just worrying to much? Also I'm in vermont so there's a good winter here.

Maybe it's a dumb question and I should just park it and not look back but I wanted to ask. Thanks in advance

 

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The best thing to do would be to empty the gas (or get it as low as you can and put stabilizer in it), oil the cylinders (pull the plugs and put a table spoon or so of oil in to and crank it over a few times with the fuel pump relay and/or injectors disconnected to distribute the oil), and disconnect the battery. Also make sure all the fluids (especially coolant) are good and change the oil if it hasn't been done so recently (combustion gases make used oil acidic). Make sure everything is well lubricated (including hinges, locks, suspension components, etc.) to prevent corrosion and I would probably dielectric grease electrical connections for the same reason. Then when you get back change any oil-based fluids before running it as moisture/condensation will likely collect in these fluids.

I've heard plenty of cases of XJs sitting for months or years with no prep and running just fine afterwards but above is the "proper" way to prep a vehicle for long-term storage.

 

I don't mean to be rude or offensive to you, but this isn't very good advice.

You don't want to empty the gas tank.

Condensation will form on the inside of an empty tank, then have nowhere to go - so you'll find that you've got water in your tank come spring.

BEST thing to do is run the tank to 1/8th tank, then fill it up so the majority is new, fresh gas, put in some Stabil and don't start it again until you're ready to drive it again.

DON'T have someone start it occasionally unless they get it nice and hot. Know how your exhaust pipe drips water sometimes? Well, unless the catalytic converter gets nice and hot, that water will just SIT in the exhaust and rust it away. So either have someone start it and get it nice and hot, or don't start it at all.

DON'T crank it with the injectors unplugged - the fuel pump will still be sending fuel to the rail. Disconnect the fuel pump relay or don't do it at all.

You can fog the cylinders if you want, but it shouldn't be a big deal. We're talking months here, not years. i can tell you from experience with my old Cutlass that the cylinders remained plenty lubed from fall to spring.

If you want to be cautious, just pull the fuel pump relay and the coil wire when you crank it for the first time in the spring to get the cylinders lubed, then plug everything back in so it'll start up, but honestly you really don't need to worry about it.

I also wouldn't change the oil - that thick, fresh oil will be harder to pump through the engine on first start up. It'll all have drained down into the pan over the months of sitting, and unlike an overnight sit, will take a lot longer to work it's way through a cold motor. Leave the old oil in it (provided it's not well overdue for an oil change), start it up in spring with that old oil, run it for a bit and change it afterward.

Air up your tires to the max pressure they can safely hold so they don't get flat spots. Apply tire shine or oil or something to the rubber so it doesn't dry rot (again, months here, probably nothing to worry about).

Instead of moth *****, use dryer sheets. Those little static sheets you put in the dryer with your clothes. Just as effective at keeping rodents away AND they smell fantastic.

Put tennis ***** under your wiper arms to keep the blades from flattening out.

Put card board under the vehicle so it doesn't start to rust from the moisture in the ground. Yes, even concrete can rust out a vehicle if it's not climate controlled. Card board won't stop this entirely but it will certainly help.

Don't cover it with a tarp or anything if it's outside, moisture will build up between the cover and the paint - you don't want that. Your vehicle can withstand years and years and years of being exposed to the elements while you drive it, so what reason is there to believe being parked would be any worse for the paint? It won't, at least not for the short period of a few months.

I've done tons of research as I had to store my Cutlass from November to April every year. Never once had a problem.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'm not going to go very extensive with it I'm just thinking so I can start it up with out worries next year maybe a good wash an undercoating to slow down rust.

I'll probably fill the tank put stabilizer in it, wash it, disconnect the battery, put something for rust on it cause it already has rust and I don't need anymore of that! haha maybe put card board down and prop the wipers up. Dryer sheets to.

Am I missing anything that I should do? It's my DD not a trailer queen so it's not the prettiest. Maybe hit some grease points?


6-7 months isn't to bad for it I don't think and I defiantly don't want to fog the cylinders or such like that.

we always drain the fuel on our mowers for the winter and take the fuel filter I wasn't sure if I should be doing that or if I should change the fuel filter right when I get back?


Thanks for all the info