Why I haven't been around...
12-20-2012, 12:00 PM
#1
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Location: Pharr, Tx.
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl
Why I haven't been around...
After many months if not years looking for a jeep, I bought a nice looking 88 jeep cherokee that turned out to be just a big problem. I have lost all interest in this vehicle and that is why I haven't been around. I have tried to sell it, but have had no luck. I have spent almost 4k and have tried selling it for $2500 and still no suckers.
I've replaced all kinds of new parts, but the one thing I could never fix was the starting or rather the turning on. The motor has to crank for a long time before it starts and that to me is very annoying. I've gotten all kinds of tips like letting the fuel pump send fuel to the injectors before starting, replaced all fuel filters, injectors, etc.. Now the starter makes a bad noise when it starts. I guess the starter is fixing to go out. We've tried new starters, distributors, wires, etc. and still turns over forever before it turns on.
I tried giving it to my son, but he sad no thanks. He doesn't feel like dropping money into it.
I hope somebody buys it this Christmas.
I've replaced all kinds of new parts, but the one thing I could never fix was the starting or rather the turning on. The motor has to crank for a long time before it starts and that to me is very annoying. I've gotten all kinds of tips like letting the fuel pump send fuel to the injectors before starting, replaced all fuel filters, injectors, etc.. Now the starter makes a bad noise when it starts. I guess the starter is fixing to go out. We've tried new starters, distributors, wires, etc. and still turns over forever before it turns on.
I tried giving it to my son, but he sad no thanks. He doesn't feel like dropping money into it.
I hope somebody buys it this Christmas.
12-20-2012, 02:05 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
heh, doesn't like long cranking on startup.... buys a jeep... EPIC
12-20-2012, 02:53 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Hamburg AR
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
After many months if not years looking for a jeep, I bought a nice looking 88 jeep cherokee that turned out to be just a big problem. I have lost all interest in this vehicle and that is why I haven't been around. I have tried to sell it, but have had no luck. I have spent almost 4k and have tried selling it for $2500 and still no suckers.
I've replaced all kinds of new parts, but the one thing I could never fix was the starting or rather the turning on. The motor has to crank for a long time before it starts and that to me is very annoying. I've gotten all kinds of tips like letting the fuel pump send fuel to the injectors before starting, replaced all fuel filters, injectors, etc.. Now the starter makes a bad noise when it starts. I guess the starter is fixing to go out. We've tried new starters, distributors, wires, etc. and still turns over forever before it turns on.
I tried giving it to my son, but he sad no thanks. He doesn't feel like dropping money into it.
I hope somebody buys it this Christmas.
I've replaced all kinds of new parts, but the one thing I could never fix was the starting or rather the turning on. The motor has to crank for a long time before it starts and that to me is very annoying. I've gotten all kinds of tips like letting the fuel pump send fuel to the injectors before starting, replaced all fuel filters, injectors, etc.. Now the starter makes a bad noise when it starts. I guess the starter is fixing to go out. We've tried new starters, distributors, wires, etc. and still turns over forever before it turns on.
I tried giving it to my son, but he sad no thanks. He doesn't feel like dropping money into it.
I hope somebody buys it this Christmas.
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12-20-2012, 05:47 PM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Oregon
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've got a few tips from an awesome member on here his name is cruiser54. It may not fix your problems but it will help.
Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it's never been done before.
Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver's side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it's center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
Revised 11-29-2011
Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud's mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn't hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you're in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver's side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it's intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3'4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
Revised 11-28-2011
Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it's never been done before.
Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver's side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it's center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
Revised 11-29-2011
Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud's mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn't hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you're in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver's side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it's intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3'4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
Revised 11-28-2011
12-21-2012, 09:49 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.2L bored out 4.0L I6
12-21-2012, 10:34 PM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: La Habra, CA
Posts: 1,152
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Year: 1988
Engine: 4.0 RENIX
its a renix jeep, they are notorious for taking a long time to start. actually, about how long is it taking to start? im curious what you consider to be a long time.
please dont scrap it!
please dont scrap it!