Passed a Range Rover in the first snow/slop of the year. (at the speed limit I might add...)

 

went searching for a front driveshaft from a 2001 for the porc sye with a mindset of spending about 100 bucks (thats what the used parts guy down the street wanted for one)...stumbled upon the exact shaft i was looking for in the local you pull it yard for 20 bucks!

 

Hello, this is my first post and just wanted to thank all the earlier posts.

My 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport was suffering with rear sag. Stock rear tire was about 1" below the fender. Front was 3". I read quite a bit on a solution in this forum and decided to replace the rear leaf springs and shocks with stock parts (versus the add a spring or lift blocks). Not a serious off roader yet to go with a full 3" lift kit.
I started with removal of the shocks and of course broke all 4 top mount bolts. I almost quit right there but thanks to this forum found a easy solution to that problem. (search rear shock bolts). The only add to that article was that I used light gauge tie wrap wire to get the new bolts in place. Thanks for that post.

Now the leaf springs. Paid $80.00 apiece at John's auto parts. Make sure you get new leaf spring bolts before you start.
All four of my leaf spring bolts were frozen solid to the shackle collar. Not pretty. You will notice this when you finally break the bolts loose and see that they are not retracting from the hangar. As you loosen the bolts the frozen collar spreads the hangar apart. The front two bolts eventually unfroze from the collar with lots of heat and penetrating fluid , arm strength and patience.(not cuttable,the nuts are welded to the frame and not accessable.) The rears were cut out from there shackles with an angle grinder and wheel. Thanks for the posts on that. I replaced all four bolts with new ones from Jeep. Old ones were in rough shape, lost maybe a quarter of there diameter due to corrosion. Install of new springs is simple compared to getting the old ones out. Lifted the rear end two inches and ride is noticably newer.(sweet). Couple of helpers. You will need for sure 1/2" drive ratchet, a 24" helper bar, and a 8" extension for the front bolts.The extension helped immensely.(you can crank on the bolts from the side of the car instead of underneath).

 

I repaired the down pipe
it had a big dent and now it doesn't

 

now

 

tt

 

that thing has more rust than my grandmothers hip. dont you think its time for stainless steel? try this..only $300 and change... just a suggestion. but great craftsmanship either way.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...ep&md=Cherokee

 

its not rust its baked on mud the pipe is in decent condition

thats the down pipe right off the header
and I cant find any one that sells them

 

I installed a new air filter and spark plugs today, runs MUCH better!
I currently have a fuel check valve on order as well.

A good local exhaust shop should be able to make you one for a decent price.

 

got an alignment...

 

Got it dirty! and when i get home i put a trailer hitch on

 

figured out my ranger only gets 10 mpg's and thought to myself i need to get my f-ing jeep running, it has to get better mpg's. sat down with the ol' lady and figured out wut we'll do to the jeep this summer, thinking a bastard lift plus a 2"BB new rims and tires, 9" rear end and d44 front fix all the rust and get her ready for more fun. dreamed about ditch diving n the jeep lol. took my car through the ditches just for fun lol.

 

I could do that but this pipe is working great now that it has more than 3/4" of room for the Exhaust to go through
its not rusty its just baked on mud and a new one will look the same after a week

 

fix the electric door lock on both back doors
the locks did not work all the time and if they worked it was very slow
had to remove the door panel to find the culprit
it was not the electric actuator
it was the mechanical part by the latch the grease was old and sticky
so I hit it with a little brake cleaner and then WD40
now they work great

 

bought a 97 xj, see picvvv