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I'm sure the purists have a website or a sticky here that lists all those codes. Kinda like decoding fender tags.
Fender tag decode is how I found out my Volare has the upgraded heavy duty transmission, but the lowest weakest option rear axle assembly. That and my right foot explains how I literally drove the rear wheels off it once.
I'm sure the purists have a website or a sticky here that lists all those codes. Kinda like decoding fender tags.
Fender tag decode is how I found out my Volare has the upgraded heavy duty transmission, but the lowest weakest option rear axle assembly. That and my right foot explains how I literally drove the rear wheels off it once.
Finally chased down a weird no crank issue with my 99 after getting it back from a shop for a new clutch and various seals (the problem happened while they had it). I spent the past couple of days pouring over wiring diagrams from the FSM so much that I dreamed about them...
The starter wouldn't engage in the start position so I assumed it was the ignition switch and/key actuator. Had battery voltage and could jump the starter solenoid. Both the starter relay and fuse at the PDC tested fine. The ignition switch was receiving voltage from the two wires coming in from the PDC and sending voltage out to the junction block. That fuse (fuse 19) was fine and power was being sent all the way to the clutch interlock switch connector and then stopped. No power going out to the starter relay in the PDC to the starter solenoid BUT - if I applied power to that wire, I could get the starter to work.
I tried two jumpers plugged into the clutch interlock switch and still nothing. So, I just cut the connector out and replaced it with a butt splice and bam - the key starts the Jeep again! No more pushing it for clutch starts.
Troubleshooting wiring issues is a rollercoaster, friends.
Ok after a mess of problems from just needing to change out the exhaust on my 94, it's finally finished. A previous owner really jacked up the manifold pipe by cutting it front of the cross member, then a jacked up weld job to extend the pipe towards the rear. Bolts were froze at the manifold, so I just cut them. Tried to know them out, but they wouldn't budge. So ended up getting a Stainless steel one from EBAY. While waiting for that I pulled the manifolds off. And surprise that same owner had tack welded the bolts on the top side of the flange. So now I know there have been those that have problems with Ebay headers. This one sealed up perfectly no leaks on first shot. So now exhaust is finished. Stainless Steel header Walker exhaust pipe, Flowmaster high flow cat, Dynomax cat back muffler and tail pipe. So nice not to hear it rattling on the cross member. One step closer to getting it inspected to become my daily. Next up rear brake line to the axle, it has 2 compression fittings and that won't pass Maryland inspection.
I have a random hose hanging under the passenger side headlight any ideas what it is? Btw the jeep has aftermarket bumpers.
First guess would be the vacuum line that would go to the ball that is behind a stock bumper.
Did they relocate it somewhere else that you can see?
If so my guess is that they ran new line.
First guess would be the vacuum line that would go to the ball that is behind a stock bumper.
Did they relocate it somewhere else that you can see?
If so my guess is that they ran new line.
For a stock bumper it would located here and look like this.
I am assuming you do have an '00. Earlier models are shaped differently.
The line that runs to it runs along the passenger side inner fender in the engine compartment.
If you have cruise control it is plugged into the main line. If not the main line would just be plugged.
You can see the routing here at Post #7.
So again a "What Did I Do Today So I Could Do Things To My Jeep" post.
Changed the oil in my air compressors.
Poured a drop or 2 of air tool oil in my air tools and gave them a quick "vroom"
Pumped up my jacks like they tell you do to when they are new and greased the one fitting on the 3 ton one.
Dragged out all my rubber mats.
And set up the 5 gallon pail with 3 gallons of Purple Power to clean rags through the season.
I have finally fleshed out about 99% of the problems with my cylinder head install.
I was beginning to wonder if I had blown the head gasket I had just installed last month as it felt and sounded like it was running on only 5 cylinders and was just barely running until...
I pulled the valve cover and found that a couple of pushrods had become dislodged from the roller rockers. Of course, this was AFTER I just spent a ton of money on all brand new IAC, TPS, and MAP sensors, plus a new pickup coil. I guess the vacuum leak making it run to redline before I killed the engine wasn't well liked by the XJ.
Out of desperation, I did this:
So was it the sage FTW?
End of the day, who cares, it runs again. Looking forward to dialing her in in the coming weeks. Banks Revolver sounds nasty, and I am a happy man.
Received my adjustable track bar from RC took about 2 hours from start to finish. Not sure how they expect you to get the nut on the back of the axle side. Just reused the flag nut... Kinda stupid.
Tell ya what though it's pretty kick ***, most of the bars I saw all make you drop an end to adjust it, but this one is just like the drag link and you can throw a pipe wrench on it and swing it wherever you want after mounting it. It's great. There's literally nothing left on this front end besides ball joints, which seemed to be in good working order, that hasn't been replaced.
Still need to adjust the pinion angle on the front and buy a new drive shaft. Currently has 8 degrees of castor which is way too much for my pinion. Just made the crappy driveshaft shake even worse.
Really need to start working on the rear end now. New leafs and getting my pinion angle setup.
Should I do the front pinion angle before I go get an alignment or should it not make a difference? I don't plan on replacing anything else in the front.
That's the best picture I have of the front end before I did any upgrades to it.
Last edited by JonRedcorn; 04-15-2021 at 06:05 PM.
Should I do the front pinion angle before I go get an alignment or should it not make a difference? I don't plan on replacing anything else in the front.
Isn't the only real way to set the front pinion angle is to get it aligned via caster, i.e. adjustable control arms?
So today I started thinking about all the projects that I have parts for.
As soon as they hire somebody I can go back to part time and maybe get a thing or two done.
There is no order or any rush. Again just my hobby in retirement so...
Anyway started thinking about the bored throttle body that I picked up from XJWonders before he closed up shop.
And how I had ordered all the sensors that go on it. Parts are scattered all over the place and I figured dig out everything for this project and put them all together.
Oh and talking with somebody about gauge clusters made me pull this out and clean it up a bit.
Got it for a pretty decent price IMO.
But it is not correct for my '00. Thinking '97, maybe '98, cause it says "Check Engine" instead of the symbol like my '00 has.
Also to the seller thinks it has about 190K on it.
So at the rate I drive I have to wait about another 7 years before I can put it on so the mileage will be correct. LOL.
But I do have a question.
Anybody know the size, type, and/or part number for the MAP sensor bolts?
Can't seem to find any info on them.
Isn't the only real way to set the front pinion angle is to get it aligned via caster, i.e. adjustable control arms?
Right, I have adjustable upper control arms. Right now the pinion angle is basically flat at 0 and the castor is at 8 degrees. I was just wondering if I should readjust it myself or I guess the alignment shop will adjust it for me? That would be awesome since it would save me a bunch of work. I don't even have my front driveshaft in atm since the slip joint on it is completely shot. Definitely need to get the alignment done soon as I've been driving it a bit and don't want to completely destroy these basically brand new ironmans.
04-12-2021, 11:11 PM
Banks Revolver sounds nasty, and I am a happy man.
