When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had for gotten for a second that a '98 intake was different then an '00. Was thinking you had your vacuum lines on wrong. But then I went and looked at mine. LOL.
Going to be curious what you think about the Brown Dog mounts.
If you think the vibes have increased.
Also if they tone down after sometime goes by.
I had Rubber browndog mounts on my old XJ. they quiet down after a short time.
I had Rubber browndog mounts on my old XJ. they quiet down after a short time.
I picked up some brand new awhile back for $60. The rubber ones.
I didn't need them but seemed like a good deal.
I always ask about them when I see somebody use them.
For a DD excessive vibes would suck.
So whether I will use them or not if and when the time comes is debatable.
Got my fuel pump/sender in, all rear fuel lines replaced, filler and vent replaced, tank back in, but not the armor box. I can now successfully fill the tank, and the gauge works. Except for all the gas spills its a win. Armor box will go back once the fumes are gone.
Found that the carpet under the rubber floor mat on front passenger side was damp. (Not liquid water, but damp.) Ran a fan overnight to dry it out and completed this afternoon by angling the Jeep so bright sunshine hit the carpet for a while. Some surface rust was on the seat mount so I cleaned it up with a wire brush and sprayed with "Zero-Rust" paint. (Similar to POR-15 but is available in spray cans.) We've had quite a few torrential rainstorms this summer so I'm figuring that overwhelmed the XJ's old-enough-to-legally-drink seals a bit. Will keep an eye on that area moving forward. Should probably also pull carpet when I get the chance to look under there, but there is no "crunchiness" or give felt when hitting the floorpan.
My 94 went through that problem, although floor was already crunchy. Found the leak was the rubber grommet from the antenna coming through the kick panel.
Instrument cluster tends to go out when off roading and on again if I push on it.
I had the same problem. I took an old cb mount lying around and made some small strips out of it. I put them behind the connectors where they come through and no more problem.
I like that tent! About how long does it take to setup? When it's packed down, is it about the same size as a regular 3-4 person ground tent?
OMGEEEE! I NEED THIS! Where did your friend get this from? I just went camping at the beach and had a blow up mattress in the back of my Jeep and a mosquito net!
Waaaay Cool!
OMGEEEE! I NEED THIS! Where did your friend get this from? I just went camping at the beach and had a blow up mattress in the back of my Jeep and a mosquito net!
Waaaay Cool!
I think you're referring to my post above (#92836). It's a Cabela's tent. I'm not sure if they still sell their own brand of this tent though. They now sell a similar tent made by Napier. Rightline is also another popular brand. If you search for "SUV tents" on Google images I'm sure a variety of them will come up.
Today I went to do a simple rear brake hose swap. Then with the line wrench and rocking and such I still rounded over one line going out to a wheel. So stop and wait for the upick to open in the morning.
Installed a new (NAPA rebuilt) starter. The old one crapped out in a parking lot but whacking it a few times got it to reluctantly turn over the engine so the Jeep could be driven home to work on.
I'd been meaning to pull up the front passenger side carpet due to wetness found there. However when working underneath on the starter it was clear there was rust and perforation. This morning I pulled up the carpet and found the expected ugliness. Poking with a big screwdriver revealed the extent of the rot, a big area adjacent to the trans tunnel and a couple of smaller ones, the whole floor and carpet insulation soaking wet. I have it drying out with a fan. Don't know yet if the water dripped down from above or splashed through rust holes that started below due to winter salt.
Obviously the right way to fix this is to cut out the floor and weld in a replacement. Unfortunately I don't weld and don't know anyone locally that can do the job. So after poking out any remaining weak areas and removing loose rust I'll cover the floor on both sides with a rust-resistant paint, and pop-rivet patch panels in place using sealer around the holes. (Basically my college-days method of dealing with rusted out floors.)
