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So DonP found a white LED for the third brake light. Appears the rear bulb is a 922. Bought a 10 pack from Amazon. Gotta love the people on this forum. Offered to send me a couple bulbs. I received them today. Even sent me a PM with the link to the bulbs. Unfortunately the link is showing different bulbs. So I can't give you a link to the exact bulbs. I think these will work though:
Now from what I read these should be red LED's because we are putting them behind a red lens. But they light up. So I am going to roll with it for now. Going to poke around and see if I can find a red one and also something for the license plate light.
He did say that a few out of the 10 pack did not work. The first one I tried would only flicker. Thinking it was just not tight in the connector. The second one I tried appears to work fine. Time will tell. Couple shots for you guys.
So DonP found a white LED for the third brake light. Appears the rear bulb is a 922. Bought a 10 pack from Amazon. Gotta love the people on this forum. Offered to send me a couple bulbs. I received them today. Even sent me a PM with the link to the bulbs. Unfortunately the link is showing different bulbs. So I can't give you a link to the exact bulbs. I think these will work though:
Now from what I read these should be red LED's because we are putting them behind a red lens. But they light up. So I am going to roll with it for now. Going to poke around and see if I can find a red one and also something for the license plate light.
He did say that a few out of the 10 pack did not work. The first one I tried would only flicker. Thinking it was just not tight in the connector. The second one I tried appears to work fine. Time will tell. Couple shots for you guys.
If I remember correctly I used 194 bulbs for both the third brake light and the license plate lights. The license plate light has to be really short or it won't fit in the housing. I used the flat circular panel style bulb for mine. Like these
If I remember correctly I used 194 bulbs for both the third brake light and the license plate lights. The license plate light has to be really short or it won't fit in the housing. I used the flat circular panel style bulb for mine. Like theseAttachment 403582
I learned my lesson about the length of the bulb fitting when dealing with the side markers. LOL.
A 922, regular bulb, resembles this which looks like what I have in the third eye already.
But again see how the bulb says 168 but also for 194, what you said, and 2825. Whatever that is. Now click on the 194 box at that link. Says the same thing in reverse. This makes no sense to me.
I love LEDs and concert nearly everything but I refuse to replace the license plate light. I'm not making it easier for cops to read my tags
LOL. Way back when I would have said the same thing. Doesn't matter anymore. Besides I noticed the clear plastic cover I have over it is pretty fogged so.......
So I decided to play with my sandblaster. Little background. I picked this compressor up a couple years ago. Decent rig. $291 and change out the door. Could not help myself. Now realize this compressor is really not good for sandblasting.
Now realize I don't have a clue about sandblasting. Also all things considered for the amount of sandblasting I might do, stress the word might, this seemed OK. Just take longer cause of the limitations of my compressor.
Then I picked that $5 Cornwell tool one. Again could not help myself. It was $5. Needed nozzles so I bought some 13/64" metal ones. Smallest I could buy which I figured would be best because of the limitations of my compressor.
So found a couple of rusty metal to try it out on. Set the regulator to 80 and went to town. Couple before and after pics.
Also tried the Tractor Supply media in the HF one. Seemed OK with that too. Had a little of the ground left so I threw it in the HF on and sandblasted a portion of the metal.
I want to say the coal slag gives a rougher finish then the ground glass. But as best I could tell not to much of a difference. Things I might sandblast I would most likely be POR 15'ing anyway. Thinking I want a rougher surface so the POR 15 has something to adhere too.
Now I love the electrolysis set ups that I have seen some guys using for rust removal. Gotta say it is impressive. Plus I have had great results with EvapoRust.
The first thing that I will most likely try it out on for real is my rear tail light guards. They are getting a little rust and I want to do them over. Thing is I want to POR 15. Because POR 15 is UV light sensitive and will turn an ashy gray, from what I have read, I am curious as to how long it will take and how much it will gray out.
Some before and after of the metal with the Cornwell and coal slag media.
Nothing per se, othing spend all in it, running errands in this insane rain we're getting. But i did get some speakers for it! Lol since ive had it ive been stuck with the 2 crappy no name 5.25s the PO stuck in the doors, one of which is partly blown. Hatch speakers were MIA.
Stopped into wally world and picked up some Sony 6x9s for the hatch. Then hit up Scamazon and ordered the rest. Rockford Fosgates for the doors, and Alpine 6.5s for the overhead speaker bar i scored last month.
I helped my friend (who always helps on my Jeep crap) install the zj rear brakes on his (my old) '96 Country. A nice preamble to working on mine.
I just done mine. Pretty straight forward ! Mine are awesome. Today it was hot again ! So, I started off by removing all of my wiper arms and sanded/painted them a semi- gloss black. Turned out great ! Some cheap Krylon, rust preventive with primer in one. Going to Monstaline em later, if the paint doesn't hold up. Don't you just hate it, when you can see uou handled it after painting ?!?! They sat for four hours before I handled them. Guess I'm going to have to let stuff sit for 24hrs ? While the paint was drying, I began tweaking and measuring my toe in. Finally I just grabbed the socket and took off experimenting/testing. I couldnt believe how sensitive the design really is ? My whole front end is pretty much new, minus control arms. I also have a somewhat weaker spring on the right tear. So it was pulling right. I dialed it in, to where it is pretty much tracking straight. If you turn left, keeps vearing left, visa vi ! After that, I pulled the bolts out of my swaybar and hit em with anti-sieze, then torqued em to 75% of the value. That helped the self centering. Just replaced both axle u-joints. The right side fit looser. The left side fit like I thought it should. Firm and just snug. The other side just felt more free ? Then I centered my steering wheel. Befo, Afore, Rusty, After,
09-15-2018, 06:10 AM
