crack the coolant bottle, pin hole in lower radiator hose over heated.

replaced both hoses and coolant bottle

short in the electric fan wiring temp. wired up to be on when ignition is in the run pos.

replaced -/+ battery cables

removed unused p/o wiring that went no where!!

 

With Chevy bars the are designed to push (Small brush)
The upper tab and second tab bolt through the bumper and frame.
The lower tab bolts through the bumper and lower bumper support. (Pretty weak point)

How close does it match your framerails?

 

Got 2 of the 3 sets of Hella lights for front bumper via FedEx and one of the glass lenses in my large foglamp kit came out of the shipping box smashed!! Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!! The asshat who packed it had a big enough box but put the light kits in the box GLASS DOWN(!), then added insult to injury by placing two layers of bubble packaging on top of the kits, instead of sandwiching them in between the two layers of bubble wrap. DUH!!!!!!!!!!

Now I have to jump through all the hoops to get a R/A to send back and wait for replacements to arrive. Dammit!

 

Removed rear fenderflares and vacumed out interior. Stood next to it for 10 mins imagening what 33's would look like.

 

The guard is 29" from vertical rail to rail. I think my jeep is like 26" or somthing, so what do you think of running like 1-2" square steel stock bolted from the bumper to the inside of each frame rail? (should close the gap)

 

howd you do that????

 

Well on all my Chevy brush buster's, even the one I have now.
The tubes bolt on and have a tab welded inside with a nut welded to it so I would use a pipe cutter (take tubes to home depot to get get if you don't have a cutter) and cut them down to the width you need and re-weld the tabs.
As far as adding steel I myself would weld 2x2" between the frame rails so you have a nice solid mount and then run extensions to the lower part of the brush buster. Then you have pull points.

 

I can cut the tubes, but I dunno if I'm following the cutting and tabs part. Are you saying cut a section out of the center of the guard and weld it back together making it not as wide? Vertically I think its fine, horizontally its a bit wide.
Also, would a 2X2" between the frame rails be strong enough to pull from? That would be a good plan.

 

Ok how do I explain this?

Take a pipe and put your finger across the circular cut end. That is the "tab" I am talking about. Grind it out and cut X amount of inches off it and re-weld the tab back in.
Never cut a pipe in the middle and put it back together because you just made a weak point. Round tube bends easy.

2x2" 3/16 is thicker than the unibody rails most are pulling from.
Then ad a hitch for a nice pull point.

 

Thanks Jam! That sounds like a good plan. I'm out of town this weekend, maybe next week I'll take it down to the local welder and get it put on. Hopfully in a "not so permenant" manner but we'll see

 

do what??

the coolant bottle duno.

the radiator hose was well over do to be replaced it had a bulge in it that stuck out a 1/2 inch.

the fan i just found a wire that was only hot when the key was in the on pos. and t-tapped it into the wire that activated the fan relay so I hopefully don't effect the other circuit.

 

My tires and rims were stolen... and i did a oil change.

 

that sucks,,

 

put new t case output seal in...easy as...thanks 4 the info muddeprived....

 

Lol its temporary. Sk8ertht540s took them for a road trip. I wanted to spice up the thread. Jokes on him i have his 30in cooper sst tires. Anyone up for wheeling sunday?